No need to envy foreign mountains and waters; the scenery along the Northern Cross-Island Highway has already captivated countless international visitors. As you drive along the winding road, ascending from the plains into the mountains, what unfolds before your eyes are layers upon layers of undulating mountain ranges, dramatic and magnificent gorges, graceful and lively waterfalls, and steamy hot springs. The diverse and ever-changing landforms and natural ecology of Taiwan are displayed in their fullest splendor along this highway.
text: Jiang Yurun | photos: Wang Chenzhi, Zhang Jinrui | Taoyuan City Government Scenic Area Administration
Standing on the Dahan Bridge and looking down at the Sangguang River Valley, the layered mountains on both banks intertwine as if weaving a breathtaking landscape.
An aesthetic experience that transcends scientific knowledge
The starting point of 0 kilometers on the Northern Cross-Island Highway is located at the Cikang Overpass in Daxi District. Therefore, Professor X took us from Daxi as the starting point of this geological journey. Daxi is a river terrace in the middle and lower reaches of the Dahan River. By the time the Dahan River flows here, its current has already become gentle. In earlier times, before the riverbed had silted up, even large ships could navigate the Dahan River. Thanks to this river transport convenience, Daxi rapidly developed into an important trading port. A river terrace is actually a former riverbed. When a river cuts downward again, the old riverbed is left behind on both sides of the new channel, forming a terrace landform. The more times the river cuts downward, the more terraces there will be. For example, Daxi has four levels of terraces. The straightness or curvature of the river also affects the shape of the terraces. When the Dahan River flows through Daxi, the channel is relatively straight, so the resulting terraces are symmetrical on both sides, referred to as “straight terraces.” If the river bends, semi-circular “theater terraces” form on the convex banks. The most classic example is the Xikou Terrace in the middle reaches of the Dahan River. From the Affection Pavilion in front of the Jiaobanshan Guesthouse, you can capture the most iconic view of the Xikou Terrace. Because terraces are flat in terrain and close to water sources, they often become sites for settlement development. Along the Northern Cross-Island Highway, besides Daxi and Xikou Terrace, other towns such as Jiaobanshan, Luofu, Sule, and Yeheng have also been developed utilizing terrace landforms.
Looking from the roadside at kilometer 29.1 of Provincial Highway 7 toward the high slope gorge, the Dahan River forms a typical winding gorge here, resembling the smile of the mountains.
After passing Luofu, the mountain road becomes increasingly narrow, and the highlight of the Northern Cross-Island Highway is about to take center stage. Within the mountainous area, the Dahan River is constrained by hard rock, forming numerous winding gorges. The convex banks of sedimentary slopes and the concave banks of erosional slopes wax and wane, making the river twist and turn like a dancing ribbon. We stopped the car at kilometer 29.1 of Provincial Highway 7. From here, the high slope gorge we see is a classic example of a curved river foot. The Dahan River wraps around the lush green mountain foot made of hard sandstone, forming a dramatic U-shaped hairpin turn, as if it’s flashing an exaggerated smile at those admiring it from above.
On the Yufeng Road from Sule to Sangguang, you can closely observe the intersecting mountain feet of the “Three Turtles Playing in Water” and the scenic beauty of the Baling Twin Bridges.
Similar winding river sections reach their climax near the Baling Bridge. Due to the alternating protrusions of hard rock ridges on both banks into the valley, the flow of the Dahan River is obstructed and forced to meander. This type of terrain is academically referred to as an “intersecting mountain foot.” The best viewing spot is atop Zhongbaling Mountain because the lush mountain foot resembles a giant turtle’s head and neck, while the extending peaks rise like a turtle shell. Hence, locals have given it the vivid name “Three Turtles Playing in Water.” Besides Zhongbaling, another spot to get an even closer view of the Three Turtles Playing in Water is along the Yufeng Road from Sule to the Sangguang Tribe. Li Bai once wrote: “Below, there are reversing currents of surging waves.” Although the surging waves here may not be as majestic as those on the Shu Road, their degree of reversal is no less impressive.
Although the Dahan Bridge is not as famous as the Baling Bridge or Luofu Bridge, it offers surprisingly stunning views.
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