Bogda Peak Elevation5445meters, situated at 88.3 degrees east longitude and 43.8 degrees north latitude, lies within Fukang City, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, and is a renowned peak in the eastern Tianshan Mountain Range.88.3degrees, latitude43.8degrees, located within the territory of Fukang City, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, it is a famous peak in the eastern section of the Tianshan Mountains.1998Year8Month4Day, Chinese people ascended Bogda Peak—the highest in the eastern Tianshan Mountains—for the first time. This remarkable achievement was made by an amateur mountaineering team from Urumqi.
1Introduction
The summit of Bogda Peak is covered with glaciers and snow that remain year-round, glistening under the sun, creating a stunning contrast with the emerald waters of Tianchi (Heavenly Lake) in the valley below, forming the beautiful high-mountain lake scenery here. Fierce winds howl atop Bogda Peak, where the climate is harsh, and temperatures often drop below freezing—it seems hard to believe life could exist there. Any water present is usually frozen solid. Yet, amid the ice and snow-covered rocks, snow lotus and other unnamed alpine flowers have developed astonishing adaptability, managing to survive and even thrive in such an extreme environment, which is nothing short of miraculous. The rolling mountains beneath Bogda Peak are rich in resources. Above the snowline live snow leopards and snow cocks. The pine forests are home to roe deer, while the ground is dotted with mushrooms and medicinal herbs such as codonopsis, astragalus, and fritillaria. Beneath these mountains lie deposits of various minerals including copper, iron, and mica. Many ancient poets and scholars have composed verses praising Bogda Peak. Located within the Changji Hui Autonomous Prefecture, it is regarded as the region’s symbolic treasure.
Although not remarkably high in elevation, Bogda Peak presents extraordinary climbing challenges. To the east and west of the main peak, there are7peaks5000meters or more in height. The mountain features steep terrain, with slopes on the western and southern sides reaching70—80degrees, while only the northeastern slope is somewhat gentler. As a result, although British and former Soviet mountaineering teams attempted to climb it before1980, it wasn’t until1981year6month8day that a team from Kyoto, Japan, consisting of11members, made the first successful ascent to the summit.
Bogda Peak is formed by3closely clustered peaks, perpetually covered in snow and ice, and is known as the“Sea of Snow".
The exposed bedrock at the summit gives way to ice and snow in the middle section, while the area below the summit forms steep glacial valleys. It mainly consists of4ridges: the northeastern ridge, southwestern ridge, northern ridge, and southeastern ridge. At the foot of the mountain lies the famous scenic destination“Tianchi”(Heavenly Lake), making it especially popular among mountaineers and tourists.
The Tianshan Mountain Range, which stretches horizontally across the heart of Xinjiang, extends to this location.,The Mongolian nomads who once grazed their herds in the foothills in ancient times gave it the elegant name: Bogda.
Bogda Mountain boasts thousands of exquisite peaks and valleys filled with natural beauty. It features pristine forests that block out the sky and picturesque alpine meadows. Near the snowline, one can find snow leopards and snow cocks. Deep within the dense woods, the calls of red deer echo, while roe deer, brown bears, lynxes, and blue sheep roam unseen. The grasslands are ablaze with colorful wildflowers, among which grow wild medicinal herbs such as fritillaria, codonopsis, arnebia, astragalus, and bupleurum, emitting a fragrant herbal scent. Bogda Mountain is also rich in dozens of minerals, including coal, siderite, and mica. At the summits, modern glaciers have formed. In the height of summer, melting ice and snow send torrents of water cascading down.30Multiple large rivers irrigate the oases and fertile lands at the mountain foothills.
Resources
The Bogda Mountains are rich in dozens of minerals such as coal, siderite, and mica. At the summits of these ranges lie modern glaciers, which in midsummer
melt into torrents of water that converge into30multiple large rivers, to irrigate the oases and fertile lands at the mountain foothills. The mountaintops are exposed bedrock with sheer cliffs; the middle sections are covered with year-round snow and ice; and below the peaks lie steep glacial valleys with treacherous terrain. There are mainly4ridgelines: the northeastern ridge, southwestern ridge, northern ridge, and southeastern ridge. Since several peaks are relatively close to each other and the mountain massif is compact, the climbing period is short, making it highly suitable for small climbing teams to undertake consecutive ascents. At the foot of the mountain lies the famous scenic destination“Tianchi Lake”, whose crystal-clear waters are emerald green like jade, reflecting towering spruce trees and silver snow-capped peaks. This allows for the integration of mountaineering and sightseeing, making it a favorite among mountaineers and tourists alike.
Geography
Bogda Peak borders the Junggar Basin to the north and faces the Turpan Basin across the Dabancheng Valley to the south, situated within a desert-surrounded
area. The climate here is primarily influenced by the upper-level northwest airflow. Located in the heart of the Asian continent, the region exhibits distinct climatic characteristics. The foothills are hot; the mid- and high-altitude mountain areas are moist and cold. The four seasons are not clearly defined, with January being the coldest month, with an average monthly temperature of -16degrees Celsius~to19degrees Celsius;7the warmest month has an average temperature of10-12degrees. Annual precipitation does not exceed200millimeters, with more rainfall on the northern slope than the southern slope. Most precipitation is concentrated during the summer months of7July and8August, accounting for two-thirds of the annual total.9Late January to the end of5February is the snow accumulation period, with snow depth reaching up to65centimeters, making entry into the mountains inadvisable. Strong winds are rare in the peak area, with an average annual wind speed of2.7-2.9meters per/second. Within a single day, wind speeds and cloud cover generally increase in the afternoon, leading to worsening weather conditions. In summary, the months of6July,7August, and8September are the best periods for mountaineering activities. Based on years of climbing experience, the optimal climbing period is from mid-7July to8between10the dates of
Among the many main peaks of the Tianshan Mountains, Bogda is not the highest, ranking only third in elevation, yet its fame far surpasses that of the other peaks.
For a long time, in the eyes of the various ethnic groups in the West, Bogda has been the most sacred mountain, revered as the abode of deities and the source of auspicious energy. The name "Bogda" comes from the Mongolian language, meaning“deity”. In ancient times, some nomadic peoples of the Western Regions had the custom of worshipping famous mountains. Because of its towering and precipitous presence, Bogda Mountain was honored by these peoples as the“Sacred Mountain”and the“Ancestral Peak”. Riders would dismount upon seeing it, travelers would bow in reverence, and even officials would stop their carriages to pay their respects. A folk tale called *Salahashaman* describes this reverence. It says that herders referred to Bogda Mountain as the“Sage”, and the stones on the mountain as stones used by the sage—weapons made from these stones were believed to be invincible in battle. This illustrates the exalted status of Bogda Mountain in the hearts of the ancient peoples of the Western Regions.
Summit
From the snow line to the summit of Bogda, there is still a long way to go, and the scenery there is even more unique. However, reaching the summit is not something ordinary climbers can achieve—it requires professional mountaineers. Since1980the year, Bogda has been designated by the state as one of the10peaks open to the public, and many Chinese and foreign climbers have marveled at its beauty. Bogda has become a world-renowned mountain.
After the Yuan Dynasty, Bogda gradually acquired Taoist mythological significance, likely due to the westward journey of the Taoist master Qiu Chuji. In the year1219, Qiu Chuji, responding to the decree of Genghis Khan, the Great Khan of the Yuan, led his disciples—18in number—on a westward journey. They set out from Dengzhou in Shandong, traveled to Yanjing, passed through the Juyong Pass, headed north to the Kerulen River, turned westward, crossed the Altai Mountains, passed through the Junggar Basin to Lake Sayram, then continued westward to Samarkand in Central Asia. The entire journey took three years and covered over ten thousand kilometers. Along the way, Qiu Chuji and his disciples preached Taoism, built Taoist temples, and laid the foundation for the development of Taoism in the West. Legend has it that the Iron Tile Temple at Heaven Lake was built by Qiu Chuji and his disciples when they passed through Fukang. His poem *Staying Overnight Near Luntai, Gazing Southeast at the Yin Mountains*, which praises Bogda, was written during this time (serving as evidence of his presence there). In some Taoist scriptures, Bogda Mountain has long been regarded as the dwelling place of the Queen Mother of the West, making Bogda a sacred Taoist mountain. By the Qing Dynasty, it had become a Taoist holy site. In the 24th year of the Qianlong reign (the year1759), the Qing government appointed the minister stationed in Urumqi to ascend Bogda Mountain to conduct worship ceremonies and issued the *Bogda Ola Worship Proclamation*. Since then, the government has organized large-scale worship activities for the public every year, further enhancing the mystical aura of Bogda.
Like its parent range, the Tianshan Mountains, Bogda is one of the youngest mountain ranges in the world. It first emerged from the sea during the orogeny 300 million years ago, and only truly distinguished itself during the Himalayan orogeny 600,000 to 700,000 years ago. The main peak of Bogda is located south of Heaven Lake, where three peaks stand side by side, forming a“mountain”shape resembling the Chinese character "mountain" (shān).The central peak is slightly higher, with an elevation of5445meters, while the eastern peak stands at5287meters. Viewed from afar, the three peaks rise above an endless sea of snow, like three giants holding up the sky and embracing the sun—majestic and heroic, inspiring awe. This breathtaking sight, known as the "Three Peaks of the Snow Sea," has been celebrated by poets and scholars throughout history, who have composed numerous poems in its praise. The Quanzhen Taoist master Qiu Chuji wrote in his poem *Staying Overnight Near Luntai, Gazing Southeast at the Yin Mountains*:“Three peaks rise together, piercing the cold clouds; cliffs stretch all around, encircling the valley streams.”The Qing scholar Song Bolu praised:“Three peaks stand alone, piercing the eternal sky.”. Wang Shunan, the compiler of *The Illustrated Gazetteer of Xinjiang*, described the grandeur and height of the three peaks even more vividly in his verse:“The southern mountain stretches its arm toward the clouds; the western land lifts its head to touch the sun.”Here, we can glimpse some of the wonders of the Three Peaks.
Bogda is renowned for its strangeness and famed for its peril. The Three Peaks stand tall toward the sky, draped in silver, exuding an extraordinary majesty. Below them lie thousands of competing peaks and myriad valleys flowing with charm—scenery that is simply enchanting. As far as the eye can see, there are primeval forests and alpine meadows, lush and verdant, with picturesque views. The most delightful experience when climbing Mount Bogda is witnessing all four seasons in a single day. In July and August, the valley floor is in the midst of summer, with wildflowers blooming everywhere and fragrances filling the air, though it can feel a bit sweltering. As you ascend to mid-mountain, the heat suddenly dissipates, and spring-like freshness envelops you—lush green grass spreads out like carpets and brocades, with all life bursting with vitality. Further up, a coolness begins to creep in; the grass is no longer as vividly green and starts to turn yellowish, evoking an autumnal feel. Upon reaching the snow line, a biting cold greets you, and the landscape ahead is a dazzling white, the glare of the snow almost too intense to bear. This area near the snow line is supposed to be a forbidden zone for life, yet here grow many peculiar alpine flowers—such as snow lotus, wild poppies, delphiniums, globeflowers, golden violets, thyme, and columbines—over a dozen species in total. Their seeds can germinate at zero degrees, and their seedlings can endure temperatures as low as30minus thirty degrees Celsius. Though they have only two months of growth each year, they still pour all their life’s passion into blooming brilliantly, adorning the lonely snowy realm. This is truly a miracle of life.
Climate
The climate here is primarily influenced by upper-level airflow from the northwest. Located in the heart of the Asian continent, its climatic characteristics are quite distinct. The foothills are dry and hot, while the mid- and high-altitude mountainous areas are moist and cold. The four seasons are not very clearly defined.,—The coldest month is-l6°C--19°C:7The warmest month is,with an average monthly temperature ofl0°C-12°C,Annual precipitation does not exceed200millimeters, with more falling on the northern slope than the southern. Most of the rainfall is concentrated during the summer months of7and8, accounting for two-thirds of the annual total..9From late5to the end of the following65, it is the snow accumulation period, with snow depth reaching up to7centimeters—making it unsuitable for entering the mountains. Strong winds are rare in the peak area, with an average annual wind speed of7to7meters9per second. Within/days, wind speeds and cloud cover typically increase in the afternoon, leading to deteriorating weather. Overall, the best periods for mountaineering are the months of—,6, and7. 8Climbing up through the gorges on the northern slope of Mount Bogda, you can both admire picturesque pastures with clear waters and green hills, and explore a world of thick snow and solid ice. The glaciers and snowfields of Bogda Peak shine year-round with bright, white brilliance, reflecting off the emerald waters of Tianchi Lake in the valley to create a uniquely scenic summer retreat.
Tourism
2Routes
Starting from Urumqi, follow the road to the east of Fukang City, then turn south and climb uphill, passing through steep mountain roads and narrow valleys, until you reach an elevation of
meters at1900-meter-high“Tianchi Lake”, the entire journeyl02kilometers. Then, the mountaineering supplies are transported to the southern shore of Tianchi Lake by motorboat, after which they are carried forward either by pack animals or manpower. There are two routes into the mountains here: one is to head east along Dadonggou, then turn south and cross“Sanda Cha Daban”—this route is relatively gentle; the other is to head south then east along Jiangjungou and cross“Yikenqi Daban”—this route is steeper. The total lengths of the two routes are25and30kilometers respectively, with swampy lowlands in the valleys,. Proper preparation should be made in advance. The mountaineering base camp is set up at the northern foot of Bogda Peak, at an altitude of3540meters.
TraditionalBC:3500meters, next to Miss Baishui’s Tomb
C1:4200meters, at the end of fishbone-shaped rocks on the snow slope
C2:4620meters, behind the rocks near the saddle close to the large snow slope
C3:5080meters, on the steps
Summit:5445meters
Personal Equipment
Mountaineering shoes, crampons (high-quality, with sharp front teeth), harness, ascender, descender (large figure-eight, do not use small basket or small figure-eight), carabiners5, prusik cord, long ice axe, short ice axe (optional), helmet, down jacket (optional), sweater and sweatpants, windproof jacket and pants, waterproof gloves, woolen hat, two pairs of mountaineering goggles (one spare), headlamp, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, etc.
Climbing Techniques
Several hazardous points when climbing Bogda Peak
1: FromC1toC2, the traditional route is a diagonal traverse, the path is long and the difficulty is high. Our climb this time passes through the icefall area at the valley bottom. The main dangers come from snow avalanches and falling rocks on both sides of the mountain.7There is unlikely to be a large amount of snowmelt runoff at the end of the month, but there are many rolling rocks. The larger ones can be avoided, but the smaller ones are hard to spot, so team members must wear helmets.
2,FromC2toC3the slope is very steep, with a section that requires traversing horizontally—absolutely no slipping is allowed. We have route ropes along the way, but when passing knots, you must secure yourself with a prusik cord before switching to an ascender. Don’t be lazy—strictly follow climbing procedures.
3,When approaching5080, you’ll need to climb up a70—80-degree ice chute and cross large flat rock slabs. This section is the most difficult and dangerous. We also use the thickest route ropes here.
4,The route toC3includes a long horizontal traverse with a very steep slope. Each person must pass one by one along the route rope—no slipping.
5,On the way to the summit, there is a snow chute that is also very steep—you’ll need to use front-pointing technique to climb.
In short, team members must be proficient in using ascenders and descenders, and also prevent the descender from slipping off. If it does slip, you must know how to rappel using a safety line. Always ensure proper protection before releasing the ascender when passing knots—no cutting corners.
Climbing Guide
Preparations
For those climbing Bogda Peak, the first priority is physical training—run5000meters daily. Although Bogda Peak isn’t very high, without ample stamina, even technical skills may not be fully utilized. Another key is ice and snow technique training, including walking on ice slopes, climbing ice walls, traversing snow and ice slopes, and ascending mixed ice-rock terrain.
For the expedition team, the first step is to develop a detailed climbing plan. Based on this plan, prepare climbing supplies, and select a suitable base camp for the team according to specific conditions. When choosing a base camp, factors such as convenient transportation, flat terrain, wind protection, rockfall avoidance, and access to water are generally considered.
The Bogda Peak climbing base camp is usually located in a basin near the Sanda Chadian Pass, at an altitude of3540meters. The Japanese Kyoto University mountaineering team set up their base camp here, and the memorial stone for Miss Baishui, who perished in the Kyoto team, along with the98monument for three missing Hong Kong mountaineers, stands here. This camp has become the traditional base camp for those coming to climb the mountain. To climb from this base camp, one must cross the approximately5-kilometer-long northern glacier of Bogda Peak. Miss Baishui tragically fell into a crevasse while crossing the glacier. From this camp, once team members depart, the base camp is unable to monitor their entire climbing process, which hinders command. Additionally, due to shielding by the glacier and peak, there are several communication dead zones where handheld radios sometimes cannot connect with the second camp at4700meters. However, this camp has relatively convenient access for entering and exiting the mountain. Another base camp is located near the glacier at the source of the Sigong River, about3kilometers from the Baishui Camp. This camp offers a wide field of view, allowing a clear sight of the entire climbing process, and has no communication dead zones, which aids in base camp command. From this camp, it takes about three hours to march along the eastern edge of the glacier to reach the second camp at4300meters.1998In
Route Familiarization
Bogda Peak mainly has four ridges: the northeastern ridge, southwestern ridge, northern ridge, and southeastern ridge. Except for the northeastern ridge, which has a slightly gentler slope (average60degrees), the other ridges have slopes reaching70-80degrees. Moreover, the northern ridge is a frequent avalanche zone. During the first ascent by the Urumqi Mountaineering and Exploration Association in1998, they witnessed a massive avalanche with astonishing force. From the base camp to the first camp at4300meters, if approaching from98The Chinese team sets off from the base camp, proceeding along the eastern edge of the fan-shaped glacier on the northern slope of Bogda Peak.2It takes about an hour to reach the upper part of the fan-shaped glacier, at an altitude close to4000meters. Beyond that is a40-50-degree ice slope covered with a thick layer of snow, stretching approximately300meters in length—progressing here is very strenuous. It takes another1hours to reach Camp I at4300meters. This section does not require crossing the glacier, making it relatively safer. If starting from the traditional base camp, one must cross the4-kilometer fan-shaped glacier. In6-7month, the glacier is covered with20-30centimeters of snow. Though there aren’t many crevasses on the glacier, flags are still placed along the route. That was where Ms. Shiraito of the Japanese team fell into a crevasse back then. Additionally, the glacier features3glacial streams with deep channels and rapid flows. Climbers need to choose narrow points to cross or detour from the stream sources. After ascending further to Camp I, the entire loaded march section takes roughly4-5hours. Above4300meters lies a“V”-shaped valley. On the eastern side of the valley is a ridge leading to4800meters, covered with blade-like rocks. The right side of the valley heads toward the main peak, where bedrock is exposed at the summit and the middle section remains snow-covered year-round. The valley floor consists of steep glacial terrain, with a massive icefall zone extending upward to the4700-meter saddle. The icefall is riddled with deep, unpredictable crevasses, seldom ventured by people. The distance from4300meters to the4700-meter saddle is less than1000meters. A generally conservative route is to traverse diagonally up the eastern slope of the“V”-shaped valley, with a slope angle of around50degrees. By the end of7month, the snow on the ice melts, leaving a glittering ice surface that’s extremely difficult to navigate. A slight misstep could send one sliding down the valley or into a crevasse. Given the long distance, route-setting requires plenty of ropes, ice screws, and rock pitons. For those not highly skilled in mountaineering, it’s best not to rope up or use mutual protection—instead, proceed only after fixed ropes are in place. Diagonal traversing typically takes around five hours. For those with advanced climbing skills and experience, it’s also possible to quickly cross through the valley floor of the“V”-shaped valley. However, one must watch out for avalanches and falling rocks on both sides, as well as the jagged crevasses in the icefall area. Climbing from the valley bottom only takes about three hours to reach Camp II at4700meters. Above
4700meters, the route has an average slope of60degrees. The section below4900meters is a vast snow slope with soft, deep snow that reaches up to the thighs. Due to the steep incline, those climbing ahead dislodge large amounts of snow, which can gain significant momentum and pose serious danger to those following. A moment of instability could result in being swept away. Near4900meters, there’s an ice chute about30meters wide with a slope of70degrees. Climbers must traverse sideways to the south—an extremely challenging move, and any slip could lead to a fatal fall.4700Below [this height], or if one falls into the abyss of the southern slope, this section must be equipped with fixed ropes of8millimeters or thicker. From4900meters to5080meters is a mixed zone of rock and ice, where some sections have local slopes reaching80-90degrees, making climbing extremely difficult with a high risk of slipping. The entire section must be roped with8-millimeter ropes.
5080meters is a small step, clearly visible from the base of the mountain. It is a snow cornice covering less than30square meters, where the wind is strong. It is the only place between4700meters and the summit where a camp can be set up. From4700meters to5080meters, with a vertical height of less than400, it takes about9-10hours to climb — showing just how difficult it is. From5080to the summit, there are two routes: one is to ascend along the snow slope, then climb up the rocky section of the northeastern ridge. This is the path Wang Tiennan and Zhang Dong took to reach the summit. It is very dangerous — the ridge leading to the summit has sheer rock faces, with an average slope of60-70degrees and locally up to80-90degrees. Only when climbers reach the top of the ridge do they see three cliff gaps between the ridge and the main peak, each about 1.5 meters apart, and the tops of these cliffs are only about the size of a bench. Climbers need sufficient courage and boldness to leap across these three cliffs in succession to reach the snowy slope that leads to the main peak.1998In [the year]8[month]4, Wang Tiennan and Zhang Dong of the Urumqi Mountaineering and Exploration Association used9and a half hours to climb the main peak via this route, breaking the record of no Chinese person having summited, while also blazing an uncharted path with their bravery and determination. This route is highly deceptive — it looks like the best path to the summit but is actually the most dangerous. Three members of the Hong Kong Rock Climbing Club likely fell to their deaths in the abyss of the southern wall of Bogda Peak while attempting to summit via this route. The other route is to climb up the snow slope to the rocky section, then turn right for several dozen meters, where there is a snow couloir leading to the main peak. The steepest part of this couloir has a slope of about70degrees. Ascending the couloir brings you to a large snow mound in front of the main peak. Crossing the mound and continuing to climb150meters southward will take you to the summit. This couloir is the most dangerous part of this route — a slip could be fatal, as falling50meters would send you down to the valley floor of the1000-shaped valley,“V”meters below.
China’s first ascent: On
1998[year]8[month]4, Chinese climbers stood on the summit of Bogda Peak, the highest peak in the eastern Tianshan Mountains, at an elevation of5445meters. The feat was accomplished by an amateur mountaineering team from Urumqi. .
Mount Bogda is renowned worldwide for its majestic beauty and precipitous terrain. In the past, several foreign mountaineering teams have reached its summit, but no Chinese team had ever done so. This climbing team, composed of12members from all walks of life, including government officials, teachers, entrepreneurs, journalists, doctors, and others.8On the3day of the month, the team divided into 4sections, each consisting of3members, and began their push toward the summit from Camp No.4700meters on the northern slope. Team leader Wang Tiannan led the first section to the assault camp at an altitude of3at an altitude of5080meters. When they attempted the final climb, they encountered snowstorms and thick fog, with visibility less than two meters, forcing them to rest in place and prepare. One member had to descend due to exhaustion.8On the morning of4, at8hours and40 minutes, Wang, along with another teammate Zhang Dong, made a push for the summit. After8hours of arduous climbing, they finally reached the top. Subsequently,6members from the team’s second, third, and fourth sections also successfully summited.
It is reported that the team had been conducting specialized preparations for this climb since1997. Li Zhixin, vice president of the China Mountaineering Association, said that Bogda is a typical technical peak, and for an amateur mountaineering team to reach its summit is a miracle in the history of Chinese mountaineering.
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