Yuzhu Peak, located 160 kilometers south of Golmud in Qinghai160kilometers east of the Kunlun Pass10kilometers, is the highest peak in the eastern section of the Kunlun Mountains, with a gentle southern slope and a steep northern slope. The glacier terminus on the southern slope is at an altitude of about 5100 meters; the glacier on the northern slope extends down to 4400 meters. The summit of the peak is covered by snow and ice year-round with no exposed rock. The ice and snow slopes are relatively gentle. Below the grain basin, the glacier, due to high annual temperatures, fast melting, low precipitation, and more ablation than accumulation, is a retreating continental glacier.5100510044004400
Introduction
Also known as Kekesaijimen Peak, Yuzhu Peak has an elevation of 6178 meters and is the highest peak in the eastern section of the Kunlun Mountains. It is located 160 kilometers south of Golmud, 10 kilometers east of the Kunlun Pass. The nearest residential area is Naij Tal, 12 kilometers away, and it is less than 80 kilometers from Golmud City. Its relative height above the Kunlun Pass is no more than 500 meters (the elevation of the Kunlun Pass is 4767 meters). Vehicles can reach the plateau surface at 4800 meters, and the lowest snow line in August is at an altitude of 5200 meters. Numerous peaks around 5500–6000 meters stand on both sides of the mountain. Modern glaciers have developed on both the southern and northern slopes. The terrain features a gentle southern slope and a steep northern slope, with the southern glacier terminus at about 5100 meters and the northern slope having a steeper gradient, with glaciers extending down to 4400 meters.617861781601601010601220080140050047724767520048005600520050005500–60005100510044004400
Driving Route from Golmud via National Highway 109 to Yuzhu Peak109109
The terrain and landform of Yuzhu Peak are ideal for beginners. The southern slope route is clear and straightforward, requiring relatively low technical climbing skills, but the base camp is at a relatively high altitude of 5050 meters. Meanwhile, the southern slope of Yuzhu Peak has been weathered into mound-like peaks, with gentle slopes and no avalanche risk.48005050
The northern slope of Yuzhu Peak is relatively complex, featuring various terrains such as crevasses, seracs, ice cliffs, and knife-edge ridges, making it especially suitable for large-scale mountaineering training activities. The northern slope base camp is 5 kilometers from Xidatan, at an altitude of 4200 meters, with the snow line at 5000 meters. Therefore, one can gain high-altitude mountaineering experience on the southern slope while learning more ice and snow techniques and climbing tactics on the northern slope.454300420044005000
The summit of the peak is covered by snow and ice year-round with no exposed rock. The ice and snow slopes are relatively gentle. Below the grain basin, the glacier, due to high annual temperatures, fast melting, low precipitation, and more ablation than accumulation, is a retreating continental glacier. Though there are crevasses on the glacier, there are few areas with fragmented ice collapses. The grain basin is flat and wide, and no collapsed debris or traces have been found beneath the ice and snow slopes. The snowy peaks on both sides of the pass are relatively concentrated, with all summits appearing white and covered with snow. The slopes and glaciers below are greyish-brown, all clearly showing streaks of crevasses.
At an elevation of4,774.79meters, Kunlun Pass is a crucial mountain gateway on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway that travelers from Gansu and Qinghai provinces must cross while traversing the central section of the Kunlun Mountains en route to Tibet. On both the eastern and western sides of Kunlun Pass, along the main ridge of the central section of the Kunlun Mountains, there are over5peaks20exceeding35,0005meters in height. Among them, there are around22to6,178.6peaks on the western side, including Yuxu Peak, and about5,541peaks on the eastern side, including Yuzhu Peak. Yuzhu Peak, with an elevation of
meters, is the highest, while the lowest among them still stands at an altitude of
meters. Aside from Yuzhu Peak, most of these peaks remain unclimbed virgin summits.“Yuzhu Peak has a moderate elevation and gentle slopes, posing no overly high technical demands for climbing. Categorized as an entry-level difficulty peak, it is well suited for novice mountaineers and serves as an excellent training ground for those climbing snow mountains for the first time. Climbers only need to have good physical fitness and endurance, grasp basic mountaineering knowledge, and prepare the necessary gear to attempt climbing Yuzhu Peak.”The natural conditions on the northern and southern sides differ. The southern side is4,800Dorjibarden, featuring a grassy plateau at an elevation of about4800meters — flat, expansive, densely vegetated, and home to abundant wildlife. There are numerous mountain streams here as well as highland lakes. The climbing route on the southern slope is clear and straightforward, with relatively low technical requirements, and the base camp is situated at an altitude of4,200meters. The northern side of Yuzhu Peak is Xidatan, a narrower valley area where the Qinghai-Tibet Highway passes through. At the mountain foothills at an elevation of
meters, there is an ideal location for setting up a base camp. The northern slope route is more complex, offering further opportunities to learn ice and snow techniques as well as mountaineering tactics.5Influenced by upper-level convective airflow, its rainfall exceeds that of the area in front of the mountain by several hundred millimeters. The annual average temperature is minusC2degrees. On the northern slope of Yuzhu Peak, the section belowC2meters is generally within glacier valleys where winds are relatively mild,2while the section above is mostly along ridgelines where winds tend to be stronger. Weather changes are frequent and occur in short cycles, making them relatively difficult to predict. Typically, between6and2p.m., there is usually a bout of rain or snow; after heavy snowfall, there is generally3to
days of fair weather. The overall slope of the glaciers is not very steep, but there are localized signs of snow movement.-3The nighttime temperature at the southern base camp ranges from2to10degrees, while the daytime temperature is usually above20degrees and can reach up to
degrees on sunny, windless days. Typically, the morning weather is better, clouds and light snow appear around noon, and it clears up by evening. This pattern is more pronounced on the southern slope than on the northern one.
The Yuzhu Peak area has a continental climate, with an annual precipitation of only200millimeters. However, in high-altitude areas above5000meters, influenced by upper-level convective air currents, the rainfall is several hundred millimeters higher than in the foothills. The average annual temperature is minus
The influence of the airflow results in hundreds of millimeters more annual precipitation compared to the foothill areas. The average annual temperature is minus zero degrees Celsius.5degrees, and the extreme minimum temperature can reach minus30degrees. The climbing season is from5to9, among which the wind is stronger in5, while there is more rainfall in7and8, making6or the end of8and early9the best time.
Taking the weather conditions in the mountain for example in the year99, month6, the nighttime temperature at the base camp is-3'C~2'C, the daytime temperature is usually above10'C, and can reach20'Cwhen the sky is clear and there is no wind; precipitation is affected by the general circulation with no clear periodicity, so you can refer to medium-term forecasts before ascending to plan your climb; it is worth noting that there is a small weather cycle phenomenon on the mountain — usually the morning weather is good, but clouds and light snow appear around noon, then it clears up in the evening, and this phenomenon is more pronounced on the southern slope than on the northern slope.
The climbing season for Yuzhu Peak runs from April to October, with relatively favorable climatic conditions. There is a five-day weather cycle, the snow is relatively hard but does not hinder walking.
Routes
Southern Slope Route
1990In the year--, the Peking University Mountaineering Team used the ridge route (S1): The base camp is located on the river beach at the end of the glacier southwest of the main peak. Climbers ascend along the scree slope of the southwest ridge.
At the junction of the southwest ridge and the southern slope of the main peak lies the location ofC1, at an altitude of approximately5500meters.C1The above is the average slope35degree snow slope.
1999Year6Month Loguen Mountaineering Guide Team-- Southwest Slope to South Slope Route (S2):The base camp location is the same as above. Climb along the scree slope on the right side of the glacier, put on crampons at the rock-glacier junction, and continue ascending the snow slope. There is a small platform in the middle of the rocky ridge closest to the main peak,C1which is where the camp is built, at an altitude of about5600meters.
1999Year5Month Guizhou Youth Exploration Association--Southeast Slope to South Slope Route (S3):The base camp is at the terminus of the glacier southeast of the main peak,C1Below which you need to cross a crevasse zone on the glacier.
1999Year6Month Loguen Mountaineering Guide Team:Departing from Golmud, follow the Qinghai-Tibet Highway via Naij Tal and Xidatan, after passing through Kunlun Pass, leave the Qinghai-Tibet Highway before109National Highway2900kmMilestone, drive10kilometers along a simple road to reach the base camp at an altitude of4900meters on the southern slope of Yuzhu Peak. Jeeps, trucks, minibuses, and even small vans can drive directly to the base camp.
North Slope Route
1997Year Peking University Mountaineering Team:All three glaciers on the north slope can be used to reach the summit of Yuzhu Peak, among which the routes of2Glacier (N1),3Glacier (N2) (counted from east to west) are established climbing routes. The characteristic of the north slope route is that the summit route is not visible from below (5600meters and above are obstructed); additionally, you need to cross other peaks before reaching the summit, such as on the2Glacier route, you need to cross5819and5920).
Transportation Routes
1997Year7-8Month Peking University Mountaineering Team:departed from Golmud, traveled along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway via Naij Tal to Xidatan, then left the highway and descended to the riverbed.
The Yuzhu Peak base camp is located outside the scouring gully at the end of the glacier, approximately6kilometers in a straight line from Xidatan, at an altitude of about4300meters, accessible by tractors, off-road jeeps, and trucks.
1999Year6Month Luogein Mountaineering Guide Team:Beijing to LanzhouK75train,15:08departed, arriving in Lanzhou at16:37the next day. If not delayed, you can catch the17:22train to Golmud. Ticket prices: Beijing to-Lanzhou,380yuan (sleeper); Lanzhou to-Golmud, approximately160yuan (sleeper).
From Urumqi, take a bus or flight to Aksu, then head north to Wensu and continue north to Tayelak. From there, hike northward along the Qionglan River to reach the southern slope of Tomur Peak. The mountaineering base camp can be set up at the end of the Zhongtai Glacier, at an altitude of3700meters. Another route is to travel east from Wensu to Pochengzi, then hike upstream along the river northward for40kilometers, to Tugai Bie'erqi.
Climbing Guide
Overview
On both sides of Yuzhu Peak stand numerous peaks over5000meters high, with modern glaciers developed on both the northern and southern slopes. The terrain is characterized by a gentle southern slope and a steep northern slope, among which
the end of the glacier on the southern slope of Yuzhu Peak is at an altitude of5100meters, while the north slope glacier extends to4400meters. There are many favorable factors for climbing Yuzhu Peak, such as its convenient transportation, diverse terrain, and vast glaciers. Climate characteristics:
The Yuzhu Peak area has a continental climate, with an annual precipitation of only200millimeters. Above5000meters in high-altitude regions, influenced by upper-level convective air currents, the precipitation is several hundred millimeters higher than in the foothill areas. The average annual temperature is-5degrees, with the lowest reaching-30degrees. Due to its unique geographical location, the East Kunlun Mountains serve as the boundary mountain separating the northern and southern climates of western China, which also determines that the climate of Yuzhu Peak is relatively complex, being influenced by both northern and southern climates. Overall, the Yuzhu Peak area has low precipitation, strong winds, often experiencing winds of force five or six, with maximum winds reaching up to10on the Beaufort scale. Sometimes instantaneous wind speeds can reach force twelve, easily exceeding100kilometers per hour.6-8During these months, temperatures are relatively high, with the minimum at night around-10degrees, but the snow and ice conditions are unstable, posing a greater threat from crevasses;4-5and9-10the temperatures are lower, with the minimum at night around-20degrees, but the snow and ice conditions are more stable.
The mountain climate exhibits small periodic patterns—clear weather in the morning, cloud cover by noon, sometimes with light snow, and clearing by evening. Best climbing season:6or at the end of8through early9.
Climbing Routes
1. South Slope Route: The route is clear and straightforward, with low technical demands for climbing. Moreover, the south slope has been weathered into mound-like peaks, featuring gentle slopes without avalanche risks. It is very suitable for beginners.
2. North Slope Route: Relatively complex, with ice crevasses, seracs, steep ice slopes, and arêtes, making it suitable for large group mountaineering training activities.[1]
The following mainly discusses the south slope route. Climbing Difficulty:
Climbing Content
High-altitude trekking+Crossing blue ice zones+Snow climbing. Climbing Duration:6-10days. Mountain Equipment: (Categorized by use, not by communal or personal items)
1. Technical Equipment: Ice axe, crampons, carabiners, ascender, descender, harness, climbing rope, helmet, etc.
2. Clothing Equipment: Waterproof shell jacket and pants, fleece jacket and pants, down jacket, fleece gloves, waterproof gloves, moisture-wicking thermal underwear and socks, hiking boots, mountaineering boots, fleece hat, gaiters, large backpack, daypack, ski goggles, headlamp, etc.
3. Camping Equipment: Base camp tent, high-altitude tent, high-altitude stove and cookware, pressure lamp, down sleeping bag, sleeping pad, sleeping bag liner, etc.
4. Contact and directional equipment:GPSWalkie-talkies, compasses, binoculars, whistles, etc.
5. Other equipment: oxygen, generator, flashlight, knife, fire starter, first aid kit, thermos, water bottle, medicine, altitude sickness medication, sunscreen, etc. Route evaluation:
6178At an altitude of [altitude] meters, it is somewhat challenging for beginners but generally suitable. However, entering from Golmud at [altitude] meters, although passing through a [altitude] meter mountain pass, the altitude rises quite rapidly when reaching the base camp at [altitude] meters, which some people may not adapt to. A camp can be set up around [altitude] meters along the route to allow for acclimatization and adjustment. When arriving at the Yuzhu Peak Base Camp, because there are no relatively high mountains nearby and it is a rather isolated peak, when the wind comes, there is nothing to block it. Moreover, there is little vegetation around the peak, making it easy for wind to whip up [2800meters, if you enter from Golmud, although you pass through a4772-meter mountain pass, by the time you reach the5050-meter base camp, the altitude gain is still relatively rapid, and some people may not acclimate well. You can set up a camp at around4500meters along the way to adjust and acclimatize. When you arrive at the Yuzhu Peak base camp, because there are no relatively high mountains nearby and it is a rather isolated peak, the wind comes with nothing to block or deflect it. Moreover, there is little vegetation around the peak, making it easy for the wind to pick up“yellow dust storms], which, although generally not lasting long, reduce visibility and pose certain risks.”. Although it usually doesn’t last long, visibility is low and there is a certain level of danger.
Mountain entry route:
Golmud (approximately [distance] kilometers south along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway)150[Distance] km-Kunlun Mountain Pass-Xidatan-Base Camp. Since the area is surrounded by Gobi Desert, if you want to head toward the Yuzhu Glacier, follow the tire tracks of other vehicles. There are wolves in the area, but they are not very bold—just don’t provoke them. Climbing route:
Base camp at an altitude of [altitude] meters5050[Altitude] mBC—Scree slope—5300Flat ground at [altitude] meters (where an advanced camp can be set up [ABC])—Several large snow slopes—Camp 1 at an altitude of [altitude] meters5600[Altitude] mC1On the ridge—Glare ice zone—Steep ridge—Summit
Climbing process:
1. From the base campBCStart by ascending a30degree scree slope, then descend several dozen meters along the left side, and head north in the valley for300meters. At5300meters you’ll see a flat area where you can set up aABC. This section of the route takes over1hours.
2. FromABC, cut northeast across the mountainside, encountering two large snow slopes en route with gradients of around20-25degrees. The first slope has an elevation difference of about100meters, and the second about200meters. This part takes less than3hour. When you reach a broad ridge, there’s a relatively flat section with a gradient of10-15degrees — that’sC1.
3. FromC1to the summit, the route is quite long. In conditions of low snowfall and just after the spring wind season, there are many glare ice areas, especially near the summit. Although the slope is under30degrees, there is still a risk of slipping. In autumn, the snow layer is thicker, with less exposed glare ice. If it has just snowed, the snow can be as deep as20-30centimeters, sometimes even50centimeters, making progress more physically demanding. There is a short steep section of ridge before the summit — proceed with caution. The summit itself is fairly wide, even larger than a basketball court, and features an aviation survey marker tower.
When descending, make sure to go down the right side along the original route to avoid mistakenly heading down the east ridge. Note: try to start early. Yuzhu Peak is often shrouded in thick fog at noon, which severely reduces visibility and makes both advancing and retreating difficult, with a high risk of getting lost. It’s best to leave marker flags along the way. Around2-3pm, sudden strong winds and snowfall may occur, but these usually don’t last long — stay calm.
Climbing costs
Registration fee:180yuan
Jeep: one-way from Golmud to-base camp is400yuan
Overall, during peak season, the cost per person is about5000-8000yuan, while in the off-season it’s2000-3000yuan.
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