I am particularly fond of quaint places—whether it’s an ancient village bathed in sunlight or an old town under the rain, both are deeply enchanting, bringing a sense of inner peace and beauty. While the once serene Fenghuang Ancient Town has become commercialized and noisy amid the surging crowds, some of Huaihua’s ancient villages and towns not far away remain unhurried, preserving their most genuine charm.
Since ancient times, Chinese people have had a deep affection for ancient villages and towns, many of which have been preserved to this day. They are not only symbols of bygone eras but also reflect the profound richness of Chinese culture. Ancient villages and towns carry a sense of nostalgia, holding countless memories. Some of the following ancient villages and towns may never have appeared on your travel list, yet they are incredibly beautiful.
Itinerary
Day 1: Depart by bullet train – Huaihua South Station – Stay at Huangzu Grand Hotel
Day 2: Jinping Ancient Village – Qianyang Ancient Town – Stay at RV Campsite
Day 3: Qingjianghu Scenic Area – Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City – Stay at Jinniu Grand Hotel
Day 4: Gaowei Ancient Village – Memorial Residence and Museum of Su Yu – Stay at Heningong Hotel
Day 5: Yanjiao Dong Village – Tongdao Huangdu Dong Village – Stay at Huangdu Homestay
Day 6: Huaihua Grand Canyon – Return journey
Practical Tips and Notes
1. Tickets: Confirm your travel date and choose your mode of transportation in advance—whether by plane or train. It’s best to download a travel app for easier ticket booking.
2. Electronics: DSLR camera, mobile phone, laptop, external hard drive, chargers, power bank, extension cord. Keep valuable items like cameras and laptops close and ensure they are properly safeguarded during your trip.
3. Check the weather before you go and pack appropriate clothing accordingly.
4. If you’re going on a self-drive trip, plan your route in advance.
5. Ancient villages and towns are scenic and full of charm—respect local customs and traditions. Photography enthusiasts should remember to bring their gear.
About Transportation
Huaihua enjoys convenient transportation with well-developed rail links. Known as the “city pulled by trains,” it is accessible by plane, high-speed rail, and regular train stations. Choose the appropriate tickets based on your departure city. The attractions on this itinerary are relatively scattered, so we opted for a self-drive trip. Personally, I find self-driving more convenient, and an increasing number of travelers are choosing to rent a car upon arrival.
If you’re visiting a single attraction, I’ve listed the transportation routes for each scenic spot below.
Huaihua South High-Speed Railway Station – Take bus, taxi, or drive yourself – Jinping Ancient Village in Zhongfang County
Huaihua South High-Speed Railway Station – Huaihua South Bus Station – Take express bus to Hongjiang District (every 10 minutes) – Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City
Huaihua South High-Speed Railway Station – Huaihua South Bus Station – Take express bus to Qiancheng (every 10 minutes) – Qianyang Ancient Town
Huaihua South High-Speed Railway Station – Huaihua South Bus Station – Take express bus to Huitong (every 15 minutes) – General Su Yu Memorial Hall, Gaowei Ancient Village
Huaihua South High-Speed Railway Station – Huaihua South Bus Station – Take express bus to Jingzhou (every 15 minutes) – Yanjiao Dong Village
Huaihua South High-Speed Railway Station – Huaihua South Bus Station – Take express bus to Tongdao (every hour) – Huangdu Dong Village
Featured Experiences on This Trip
He Long Yan (Gathering Banquet)
This is a tradition among the Miao and Dong ethnic groups in western Hunan. “It is a joy to have friends come from afar...” For a culture that highly values food and etiquette, hosting guests with delicious cuisine is a long-standing tradition, and the He Long Yan has become the highest form of hospitality.
Intercepting Wine (Lanmen Jiu)
Generally, there’s no welcome wine ceremony if you’re traveling alone. The welcoming wine ritual is reserved for honored guests. If you’re on a group tour, you’ll usually experience this ceremony. When drinking the welcoming wine, remember not to touch the container she hands you—she will pour it directly into your mouth, and you just take a sip. If you do take the vessel in your hand, then you should finish the whole bowl. It’s all local rice wine; though quite tasty, it’s best to drink in moderation.
Bamboo Pole Dance
The bamboo pole dance is the most community-oriented and representative dance of the Dong ethnic group. It tests participants’ agility and quick reflexes, and almost every visitor to the Dong villages gets to try it. To the sound of joyful music, the bamboo poles rhythmically open and close in sync with the dancers’ steps, creating a delightful duet.
Glutinous Rice Cake Making (Dabing)
Glutinous rice cake, or dabing, is a food made from steamed glutinous rice that is pounded into a paste. The process involves placing cooked sticky rice in a stone trough and pounding it with a wooden stick (though in some regions, a stone hammer or other tools may be used) until it becomes a smooth, mud-like consistency. This type of food is commonly referred to as dabing. The freshly made cakes are best eaten warm, served with sesame sugar—it’s absolutely delicious.
"High Mountains and Flowing Water" Toast Ceremony
The Dong people’s “High Mountains and Flowing Water” toast involves Dong girls gently tugging at the guest’s ears while singing a toast song. One girl pours the Dong’s fragrant glutinous rice wine from a height in a thin stream using a wine pot, while others catch it in bowls held at varying heights and pass it to the guest’s mouth. Throughout the toast, the singing never stops and the wine keeps flowing, showcasing the Dong people’s warmth and respect for their guests.
Photo Spot 1: Jingping Ancient Village
Depart from Huangzuang Grand Hotel in the morning, a 30-minute drive will take you to Jingping Ancient Village. Located on the west bank of the Wushui River in Zhongfang Town, Zhongfang County, it is about 15 kilometers from downtown Huaihua and very accessible. With a long history, the ancient village mainly consists of Ming and Qing dynasty architectural complexes made up of small courtyards. There are currently over 20 ancient cultural relics scattered throughout, harmoniously integrated with the surrounding landscape and farmland.
Upon arriving at the village entrance, the first thing you see is the Pan Clan Ancestral Hall. The Pans of Jingping are descendants of Pan Renmei, a prime minister of the Northern Song Dynasty, and around 95% of the villagers share the Pan surname. The founding ancestor was Pan Zhenzhou, grandson of Pan Renmei, who was a Military Strategist General and inherited his father’s title as Guanglu Grand Master. In the seventh year of Emperor Shenzong’s Xining era (1074 AD), he was exiled to Xupu. He developed Jingping on the outskirts of Xupu, built the village, and established the ancestral hall. After a thousand years of growth, it became a prominent clan on the Hunan-Guizhou border.
In front of the Five Gods Temple lies an ancient post road paved with bluestone that runs alongside a stream. Beside the road stand seven ancient chrysanthemum trees arranged in the shape of the Big Dipper. Not far from the ancestral hall are seven large trees forming a Big Dipper pattern, known as the "Seven-Star Trees." Scattered around the Twin Phoenix Bridge, each tree has a unique shape, making them one of the most picturesque highlights of Jingping Ancient Village.
Walking further along the path, you’ll see an ancient tree broken in half, yet still lush with branches supported by an arched cement pillar. The trunk is covered with many strips of cloth and paper with children’s names written on them—locals believe tying these to the tree trunk can ward off evil and disasters. This 1,400-year-old tree is called the "Mother Tree" by the villagers of Jingping.
The village contains over 20 ancient cultural sites, including ancestral halls, ancient post roads, Fubo Palace, Wenchang Pavilion, the Chastity Archway, ancient wells from the Tang Dynasty, hydrological steles, Dragon-Phoenix Bridge, Guanyin Pavilion, the Five Spirits Temple, and relics from the Paleolithic and Neolithic periods.
The village also features wells from the Tang Dynasty, city walls from the Ming Dynasty, residences from the Qing Dynasty, as well as thousand-year-old “couple trees” and ancient stone fish—all offering a deep sense of history and tranquility.
Historically a land of southern ethnic minorities, it has long been home to diverse tribes and ethnic groups, giving it a rich folk culture. The maze-like alleys, along with preserved cultural elements such as drinking songs, Nuo opera, fish-drum performances, and the "Overlord Whip," attract many visitors.
Photo Spot 2: Qianyang Ancient City
Blue brick houses, wooden buildings with carved beams, stone-paved roads, red lanterns, stone archways, and narrow alleys—that was my first impression of Qianyang Ancient City.
Known as the “Gateway to Yunnan and Guizhou” and the “No. 1 Ancient Town of Western Hunan,” Qianyang Ancient City predates Lijiang’s Dayan Ancient Town by 1,400 years and Fenghuang Ancient Town in Hunan by 900 years. Yet, it remains far less known, lending it a low-key, mysterious charm.
You’d never know unless you visit Qianyang Ancient City, but this millennia-old settlement, once known as “Longbiao” along the upper Yuan River, is surprisingly vibrant. Ming and Qing architecture abounds. Most rooftops feature rolled eaves, typical of the Ming and Qing styles. No wonder when Wang Changling was exiled here, he wrote the timeless poem “Farewell to Xin Jian at Lotus Tower”: “Cold rain mingles with river night, entering Wu at dawn; I bid farewell as lonely Chu hills face the sky. Should my friends in Luoyang ask how I fare, say my heart stays pure as ice in a crystal vase.”
There’s not a hint of noise or heavy commercialization—the entire ancient city feels exceptionally serene and steeped in history. Qianyang Ancient City is filled with Ming and Qing architectural complexes, including: the “No. 1 Scenic Wonder of Southern Chu”—Lotus Tower; the ancient Ming-Qing street—Nanzheng Street; the ancient bell tower of Longbiao Mountain—Bell and Drum Tower; and the red sandstone archway in the west of the city—Zhongzheng Gate. Both the gate and its tower are well-preserved, with the three characters “Zhongzheng Gate” inscribed by Dai Li, a notorious spy chief of the Republican era.
The city also houses Dai Li’s former residence, the “Chastity Shrine,” where he organized secret agent training. If you stand by his residence, you might even hear the sound of Morse code coming from inside—it’s quite intriguing.
The TV series “Just Like Youth” was filmed near a well next to Dai Li’s residence. Aside from some dilapidated buildings, most homes in the ancient city are still lived in. It’s a living, breathing city where residents coexist with historical landmarks, sustaining the “life” of this millennia-old settlement—an enchanting place you can’t help but fall for.
Photo Spot 3: Qingjiang Lake
Qingjiang Lake, a national wetland park located in Tuokou, a millennia-old town on the Hunan-Guizhou border, is the largest lake in southwestern Hunan and is often called “Hunan’s Erhai.” We drove here from Qianyang Ancient City.
The name Qingjiang Lake alone stirs excitement before you even arrive. Full of anticipation, we set off by car to experience its extraordinary charm.
I believe admiring Qingjiang Lake from the shore isn’t enough—only by taking a boat ride and getting up close to the water and mountains can you truly appreciate its beauty. As the boat glides slowly across the lake, you’ll see vast misty waters, winding shores, gentle rolling hills, and several small islands floating on the surface, creating a uniquely beautiful scene.
With its few visitors and unspoiled scenery, Qingjiang Lake lacks the hustle and pretentiousness found elsewhere. It preserves its own tranquility and simplicity. Nowadays, every scenic spot is crowded, but Qingjiang Lake remains peaceful and sparsely populated. Here, you’ll always see breathtaking views—not crowds of people.
Photo Spot 4: Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City
Located at the confluence of the Yuan River and Wu River, Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City originated in the Spring and Autumn period, flourished in the Tang Dynasty, and reached its peak during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is the best-preserved ancient architectural complex, known as the “Pearl of Western Hunan,” “Little Nanjing,” and the “Metropolis of Southwest China.”
Stepping into the ancient commercial city, you’ll be captivated by a scroll painting reminiscent of the “Along the River During the Qingming Festival.” Upon asking the guide, you’ll learn it’s a 9-meter-long artwork titled “Misty Rain Hongjiang,” depicting the prosperity of the Ming and Qing eras. The painting illustrates oil shops, teahouses, opium dens, and various stores, featuring over 1,800 figures, bringing to life the bustling commercial scene of Hongjiang’s past.
After admiring the masterpiece, follow the guide deeper into the ancient merchant town scenic area. As you approach the ancient town, you’re immediately captivated by its vintage charm—the old bricks and timber uphold the houses, the bluestone-paved paths twist and turn, and the alleys crisscross in intricate depth. The walls are weathered and mottled, the roof tiles faded, while delicate wood carvings and the soaring upturned eaves form a quintessential picture of the Jiangnan-style dwellings with Yuan-Xiang characteristics.
The most atmospheric experience in the ancient town is putting on traditional costumes and strolling through the arched alleyways, where people call you “sir” or “young master,” making you feel as though you’ve traveled back to the Ming and Qing dynasties.
My favorite part is the immersive interactive performances here, such as the traditional Hongjiang wedding ceremony, the “Escort Across the Four Seas,” and “Tax Collection.” These activities enhance the interactive experience of a Ming-Qing time-travel journey. You can dress in period costumes, catch the bridal bouquet, ride in a flower sedan, participate in wedding ceremonies, play the role of a guard escorting treasure carts, act as a tax officer, or even pretend to be a scribe.
According to the guide, the well-preserved Ming and Qing dynasty architecture of the Hongjiang Ancient Merchant Town includes over 380 structures such as underground vault houses, temples, escort agencies, money shops, merchant stores, foreign firms, workshops, shops, inns, brothels, newspapers, and opium dens, covering a total area of about 300,000 square meters.
A century has flown by in the blink of an eye. Once a thriving ancient merchant town, it now stands dilapidated, no longer what it used to be. It lingers beyond the gaze of the forgetful crowd, yet precisely because of this, it retains its unembellished, simple, and weathered face—allowing us a glimpse into the town’s past centuries and evoking memories of its youthful days.
Moss grows thickly on the bluestone paths. In the deep alleys, beneath the pitch-black roof tiles, life continues as usual in the crooked, aged houses. The stories here carry on.
The ancient road bears the marks of time, and the misty rain drapes over Hongjiang. Countless carved beams and painted rafters have witnessed years of wind and frost. This eternal and solitary myth quietly lies buried in the depths of time, waiting for you to uncover and savor...
Checkpoint attraction five: Gaoyi Ancient Village
In Hunan, there’s a small village that preserves over 700 years of Huizhou-style architecture—mysterious and understated. This tranquil village exudes a sense of peace and remoteness. With its tall walls and narrow lanes, it offers a serene atmosphere. Moreover, it retains ancient residences from the Ming and Qing periods, all filled with classical charm, intricate wood carvings, and painted eaves. The mystery of this ancient village makes you eager to explore further. And this ancient village is called Gaoyi Ancient Village.
We arrived at Gaoyi Ancient Village, which is surrounded by mountains on three sides and faces water on one, resembling a high-backed armchair. The entire village seems built atop such a chair. It has been designated by the state as a municipal-level key cultural relic protection unit. After parking the car, we saw more than ten Dong girls standing in a row, each holding a bowl—this was clearly a welcoming tradition known as “gate-blocking wine.” You must drink before entering the village, a gesture reserved for honored guests. There were also Dong girls performing the bamboo dance, one of the most communal and joyous dances of the Dong people, testing participants’ agility and quick reflexes. Almost every visitor to the Dong region tries it. To the rhythm of merry music, the bamboo poles open and close in sync with the dancers’ steps, creating a delightful duet.
After watching the bamboo dance and drinking the gate-blocking wine, we followed the guide further inside. What greeted us was a vast expanse of Huizhou-style architecture—a spectacular sight. It’s said these buildings are over 700 years old, with some constructed during the Republican era. All residents use grey-brick walls, and the walls are particularly tall.
On top of these walls are usually a few small windows, giving a rather enclosed appearance. In ancient times, this served to block wind and deter theft. But once you step inside their homes, you’ll find that most of the structures behind the parapet walls are made of wood. It’s said that a group of merchants who returned from outside brought the Huizhou architectural style back to their hometown, integrating it with their own unique design. Due to this special construction style, it’s said that in nearly a century, not a single fire has spread from one house to another in Gaoyi Village.
Beneath the tall walls lie bluestone-paved lanes that wind narrowly. Though the alleys are very tight, they possess a special ambiance. Because the lanes are so narrow and the houses on both sides look remarkably similar, you often feel as if you’re wandering through a maze. Indeed, Gaoyi Ancient Village is a truly mysterious place—no two window lattices are alike, and each house holds a story waiting for you to slowly explore and listen to.
At the Moonlight Tower, watch the locally performed intangible cultural heritage project, the Nuo Opera, which integrates music, dance, storytelling, rituals, and martial arts into a comprehensive performance art, where dance plays a significant role.
In ancient times, Gaoyi Ancient Village was a hub of waterway transportation and a necessary stop along the opium route. The village is surrounded by continuous mountain ranges and lush trees, giving off a serene vibe.
According to the guide, this ancient village has also appeared on TV. Since its television appearance, more and more visitors have come to Gaoyi, bringing gradual changes. Personally, I hope it remains in its original, pristine state, quietly existing just as it once did.
Checkpoint attraction six: Yanjiao Dong Village
With its mysterious and ancient matrilineal culture, simple and profound relay station history, and fairy-tale-like mountain and pastoral scenery, deep in the mountains of Zhaya Township, Jingzhou Miao-Dong Autonomous County, lies an ancient Dong village that has accumulated rich history over thousands of years, forming a unique folk culture—this is Yanjiao Dong Village.
A shallow stream meanders around the village, backed by mountains on both ends. A wind-rain bridge spans the stream, next to the entrance of Yanjiao Dong Village.
After drinking the gate-blocking wine and passing through the village gate, the whole settlement comes into view. The most eye-catching features are the drum towers and wind-rain bridges, most emblematic of Dong architecture. On the upturned eaves of the bridges and towers are carved phoenix patterns. It’s understood that women hold a high status locally, and the widespread motifs of phoenix seeking its mate and harmonious love vividly reflect women’s autonomy and freedom in pursuing love and marriage.
Arriving at the drum tower square, you’ll see several elderly women carving patterns—that’s what they call “carved candied fruit.” Carved candied fruit is a creative and ingenious art form. Villagers take hollowed-out pomelos or sliced pomelo rinds and, using a willow-leaf-shaped knife, carve, slice, pick, and pare. Shavings fall away as they work swiftly and skillfully, with smooth lines, delicate knife work, and lifelike shapes.
Walking out of the village, you hear uniquely Dong-style music. At the drum tower square, the large-scale live performance “Silk Road Daughter Kingdom” is underway. A stage play based on the historical and cultural background of the merchant culture along the Southern Silk Road and the matrilineal culture of the ancient “Daughter Kingdom,” it recreates the beauty and mystique of the “Southern Silk Road Daughter Kingdom.”
The ancient Yanjiao Dong Village preserves the matrilineal culture passed down for millennia and also boasts distinctive Dong folk culture. Ethnic songs and dances mainly include the Dong pipa, Dong lusheng, and Duo Ye dance—combining music, instruments, song, and dance with great character. Here, you can admire the classic wind-rain bridges and drum towers, learn to play the traditional Dong pipa, experience the charm of ancient Dong pipa songs, and fully immerse yourself in the most authentic ethnic sounds and spirit.
Checkpoint attraction seven: Huangdu Dong Village
At the junction of Hunan, Guizhou, and Guangxi provinces live a group of people who still preserve splendid Dong cultural heritage and quaint, simple local customs. Artistic programs full of ethnic character—such as the “Toast Song,” “Dong Costumes,” “Dong Grand Chorus,” “Stool Love Song,” “Ko Up Da Da,” and “Lusheng Step Dance”—bring together the essence of traditional Dong culture. With light singing and soul-stirring dances, they showcase a unique, vigorous beauty.
H
When we arrived at the entrance of the Dong village, the villagers had already prepared a lusheng band to play welcoming music, and Dong girls held "road-blocking wine" to greet guests. After drinking the "road-blocking wine" and passing through the village gate, you are officially entering the village. It’s worth mentioning that the village gate is entirely constructed using a mortise-and-tenon structure, without a single nail or piece of iron—sturdy yet lightweight.
Speaking of Huangdu, there’s also a story: legend has it that the ancient king of the Yelang Kingdom passed through this area and was captivated by its rich ethnic culture, so he established the town of "Huangdu."
Huangdu consists of four villages: Touzhai, Weizhai, Xinzhai, and Panzhai. With a long history, it features a magnificent cluster of Dong stilted houses, as well as drum towers and wind-rain bridges. The wind-rain bridge in Huangdu Dong Village is built right next to the drum tower, supported by stone piers and hanging beams, with thick wooden beams. The lattice pillars are adorned with vivid carvings of flowers, birds, and Dong customs.
The life of the residents here is serene. People hang straw shoes on their door frames for passersby and place grass knots in ancient wells to signal that the water is drinkable. Their doors remain unlocked, and they sleep with their doors open... living in a world of mutual trust. In this world, they spin and weave their own cloth, with Dong brocade, Dong scarves, and Dong sashes renowned worldwide. There are currently over 500 stilted houses in the area, where traditional customs remain particularly strong, and ethnic sports are rich and varied, including traditional events such as flower cannon snatching and bullfighting. The Dong people are often called the “land of poetry and the ocean of songs,” boasts a vibrant artistic and cultural scene. Huangdu Dong Village is also known as the Huangdu Dong Cultural Village.
To truly understand a place, you need to experience its local cultural performances. We watched a folk song and dance show by the Dong ethnic group in the village’s performance hall, which showcased the lifestyle and the passionate, musical, and dance-loving spirit of the Dong people.
After the show, the square was already crowded with people preparing to make glutinous rice cakes. These cakes are made from steamed sticky rice that is pounded into a paste. The cooked sticky rice is placed in a stone trough and mashed with a wooden stick (though in some regions, a stone hammer or other tools may be used). Generally, this type of food is called a glutinous rice cake. The freshly made cakes are best eaten hot, served with sesame sugar — absolutely delicious.
Many Dong villages host a "Hundred Family Feast," but Huangdu Dong Village features a "Gathering Feast." Many visitors come to this mountainous Dong village not just to see the drum towers and wind-rain bridges, but more importantly, to enjoy a communal meal and experience the life of the locals.
Check-in spot #8: Huaihua Grand Canyon
Huaihua Grand Canyon is located in Daping Village within the Huangyan Tourist Resort area, just about a 40-minute drive from the city center. The average temperature here is 5–7°C lower than in the urban area, and it boasts rich forest resources, tourist attractions, and other pristine natural landscapes. It is known as the “Little Tibet of Hecheng.” This is a three-dimensional natural museum featuring a winding 5,000-meter cliffside plank walkway.
Upon entering Huaihua Grand Canyon Scenic Area, the first thing that catches your eye is the stone forest on the distant mountains. The area has striking karst landforms, with oddly shaped rocks scattered all over the hills. A closer look reveals chrysanthemum seedlings nestled among the stones — chrysanthemums cover the hillsides. Wandering through the stone forest, the uniquely shaped rocks give off a somewhat mystical vibe. Being there, you can’t help but marvel at nature’s incredible craftsmanship.
As you venture into the grand canyon, the autumn leaves turn red. The lacquer trees are the first to blaze into color, covering the valley in a sea of red — tree after tree, patch after patch, like burning flames igniting the passion of autumn in the canyon.
The entire plank walkway winds and spirals for 7 kilometers and is entirely paved with Northeast pine. Walking the full length takes at least two hours. Along the way, you’ll sometimes follow the stream downward, sometimes climb uphill along the mountain, sometimes pass through cascading waterfalls, and sometimes hang mid-air gazing into the distance. The whole journey takes place along the cliffs of the canyon — thrilling and exhilarating.
What caught my interest here was a house perched on the edge of a cliff. It’s a cliffside wooden cabin built by the scenic area. Staying here lets you enjoy the sunrise and sea of clouds while taking in the beauty of nature. I really wish I could spend a few nights here sometime.
In addition to the mountain scenery, there are also thrilling activities such as high-altitude zip-lining, Huashan grass sliding, mysterious underground caves, cliff plank walks, glass platforms, stone forest flower fields, and thatched cottages.
Come and fully experience the magic of the wilderness, listen to the whispers of nature, unleash the thrill of conquering the rugged, and feel the serenity of returning to nature. Huaihua Grand Canyon is waiting to challenge you — wonder if you’re up for it?