Some beautiful sights hang on the horizon, urging us to chase them as soon as possible; some happiness comes unexpectedly, needing to be held tightly in our hands...
I’ve longed to see the rapeseed flowers of Qinghai and the source of the Yellow River for ages. Taking advantage of my annual leave, I embarked on a long journey from Beijing to Maduo in Qinghai in my JIMNY to explore the Yellow River’s origin. There, I experienced the beauty and magic of China’s most stunning lakes, witnessed the blue skies and white clouds set against vast fields of rapeseed flowers, marveled at the magnificence of the highland sky road, counted countless alpine lakes, sought out the two lakes and one monument at the Yellow River source, and retraced the steps of Princess Wencheng of old.
I’ve longed to see the rapeseed flowers of Qinghai and the source of the Yellow River for ages. Taking advantage of my annual leave, I embarked on a long journey from Beijing to Maduo in Qinghai in my JIMNY to explore the Yellow River’s origin. There, I experienced the beauty and magic of China’s most stunning lakes, witnessed the blue skies and white clouds set against vast fields of rapeseed flowers, marveled at the magnificence of the highland sky road, counted countless alpine lakes, sought out the two lakes and one monument at the Yellow River source, and retraced the steps of Princess Wencheng of old.
I returned to Beijing. After sleeping in late in the morning, I checked out of the hotel at 11 a.m. and set off, with heavy rain falling in Yinchuan at the time. That day, I drove 1,225 kilometers. I arrived back in Beijing at 2 a.m., in my warm home.
The seven days of my Qinghai trip allowed me to witness the legendary splendor of this region. Magnificent Qinghai — the journey was well worth it.
Qinghai is a place of breathtaking beauty. Here, you can climb to mountain peaks, trace rivers to their sources, and experience the folkways that reach to the horizon. Along the way, you’ll make discoveries at every turn. The click of your camera will echo crisply across the land, and vivid images will capture the spirit of the scenery.
Qinghai is a must-visit destination for photographers. Through the lens, Qinghai offers every visitor a fresh perspective. Amidst the observation and discovery of both grandeur and simplicity, one reveals the world and understands nature through their own work. Photography in Qinghai is always a journey of pursuit. The history of Qinghai is desolate, solemn, and bold. “Over Qinghai’s long clouds the dark snow mountains loom, a lone city gazes afar at ranges towering high,” “Above Qinghai’s city, only the moon shines bright, while in the yellow sand no spring is in sight.” In Tang poetry, Qinghai seems shrouded in muted tones.
Historically, the Qinghai region was often plagued by war and bloodshed, so poets’ impressions were naturally somber. But in the voice of the “King of Western Songs,” Wang Luobin, Qinghai is “that distant place,” the land where “the half-moon climbs up.” I remember senior journalist Wang Maoxiu speaking passionately about Qinghai: “I just can’t believe a place that produced such beautiful songs could be all that desolate. It depends on whether you can discover beauty.” Indeed, Qinghai’s long clouds, the fierce winds of the desert, the snows of Kunlun, the green waters of the Yangtze, the blue pines of the Qilian Mountains, and the azure waves of the Yellow River… As a photographer, how does one pursue the scenic wonders of Qinghai and interpret its beauty through the lens? Qinghai, with its high blue skies, green grasslands, blue mountains, yellow lakeshores — such views and compositions offer an exhilarating thrill to any photographer. This naturally-formed paradise of beauty is truly unique in the world.
The splendid roots of Chinese culture lie in the west, and the waters that nourish the land of China originate in Qinghai. The Yangtze, the Yellow River, the Lancang, the Heihe… Which of these great rivers lacks a majestic presence, or a mysterious source? Generations have strived to reach Qinghai and explore the origins of these rivers, enduring untold hardships and even sacrificing their lives. To this day, Qinghai remains like a fluttering prayer flag, stirring the heart and drawing more people to venture there alone or in groups. Whether your approach to exploring Qinghai differs, the spirit of adventure continues to be passed on. This is the indelible impression Qinghai leaves on every visitor.
If magnificent China is a riddle, then I hope her answer lies in Qinghai, in the source of the Yellow River.
Flying侠’s Tips:
1. Qinghai Lake is a sacred lake in Tibetan culture. When circling the lake, it’s best to respect local customs by going clockwise. Along the way, there are mostly government-installed wire fences separating the road from the lakeside pastures. While many areas are unfenced or easy to cross, allowing close access to Qinghai Lake, the ethnic minorities in the Qinghai Lake area are mainly Tibetan, along with Hui and Mongolian peoples. The locals are simple, kind, and hospitable, and most can communicate with you in basic Qinghai Mandarin. Do not attempt to swim in the sacred lake out of respect for Tibetan beliefs. Do not leave trash around the lake.
2. It’s essential to carry cold-weather clothing, short and long-sleeve shirts, hiking shoes, hats, sunglasses, a backpack, bed sheets, band-aids, and several medications. The water in Qinghai Lake is extremely salty and undrinkable — bring enough drinking water and food. The plateau has cool temperatures but intense sunlight, so use professional sun protection skincare products. There’s a large temperature difference between morning and night, so dress accordingly and check the weather forecast for the season before traveling.
3. Protect your camera — do not leave it exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods. Be cautious of wind and sand, and avoid using your camera in unclean or rainy environments.
4. Due to strong ultraviolet rays, always attach a UV filter to your lens. This makes distant scenes clearer, prevents color photos from turning bluish-purple, and, most importantly, protects the lens. A lens hood is also indispensable to prevent glare when the sun shines directly on the lens.
5. Vehicle maintenance: Check the engine sound, tires, spare tire, lights, engine oil, brake fluid, antifreeze, door locks, and windows. Bring your driver’s license, vehicle registration, road maintenance fee, and insurance documents.
6. Bring necessary medications: For the plateau: Rhodiola rosea, painkillers (altitude sickness headaches can be severe), American ginseng lozenges, Bufferin (for altitude sickness); Nutrition: Vitamins, American ginseng lozenges; Common: Cold capsules, Kangbide, Isatis root granules (drink daily to prevent colds), Domperidone (for nausea), berberine, quick-acting heart rescue pills, anti-inflammatory drugs, Centrum multivitamins; Topical: Voltaren, hydrocortisone cream, Yunnan Baiyao, Tiger Bone Plaster, band-aids, eye drops; Supplements: Red Bull, packaged tea, coffee, fruit drinks, chocolate, etc.
4. Due to strong ultraviolet rays, always attach a UV filter to your lens. This makes distant scenes clearer, prevents color photos from turning bluish-purple, and, most importantly, protects the lens. A lens hood is also indispensable to prevent glare when the sun shines directly on the lens.
5. Vehicle maintenance: Check the engine sound, tires, spare tire, lights, engine oil, brake fluid, antifreeze, door locks, and windows. Bring your driver’s license, vehicle registration, road maintenance fee, and insurance documents.
6. Bring necessary medications: For the plateau: Rhodiola rosea, painkillers (altitude sickness headaches can be severe), American ginseng lozenges, Bufferin (for altitude sickness); Nutrition: Vitamins, American ginseng lozenges; Common: Cold capsules, Kangbide, Isatis root granules (drink daily to prevent colds), Domperidone (for nausea), berberine, quick-acting heart rescue pills, anti-inflammatory drugs, Centrum multivitamins; Topical: Voltaren, hydrocortisone cream, Yunnan Baiyao, Tiger Bone Plaster, band-aids, eye drops; Supplements: Red Bull, packaged tea, coffee, fruit drinks, chocolate, etc.