
Taiwan’s Small Towns Are Always Full of Charm
Your Senses Fall for Old-Time Flavors
“Clang clang…” Before I knew it, the train had entered Yilan County. The first stop was Toucheng. The most famous event here is the Toucheng Ghost Festival held in the seventh lunar month. “Ghost grabbing” involves placing offerings on a tall “ghost platform” for people to compete for, said to drive away lingering spirits. Due to the dangerous nature of the activity, it was banned for a long time during the Qing Dynasty. In 1991, Toucheng resumed the festival, using the traditional ghost platform setup but improving the way the competition is carried out.
I was upset about arriving at the wrong time and missing the ghost-grabbing event. But fortunately, Toucheng still has something long-standing that can make up for it — Ah Zong’s Taro Ice. Located by the provincial highway, Ah Zong’s Taro Ice has been around for nearly 70 years. It offers only six flavors: taro, red bean, pineapple, peanut, longan, and black glutinous rice. With every bite, there’s no trace of artificial flavoring. The ingredients are hearty, and the texture is smooth. It’s said to be the taste of Taiwan’s traditional “bbu” (bǎbù).
Tips
Currently, there are five types of trains in Taiwan: the high-speed rail traveling between Taipei and Kaohsiung at speeds of 300 km/h, the tilting train Taroko Express operating between Taipei and Hualien, the Tze-Chiang Limited Express responsible for non-electrified sections of the eastern line, the Chu-Kuang Express handling long-distance and cross-line services on the east-west trunk lines, and the Local Trains, which include commuter electric trains.