This article is from page 132 of climbing 180, written by Matt Samet. It is not a direct translation but has been adapted in narrative style while largely retaining the key points and original meaning.  
       The author, after falling just before the top on an on-sight attempt, was determined to improve their on-sight ability and came up with six key methods. The first letters of each method form the acronym FLABBO. Below are these six methods:  
       1. Get Familiar with the Route:  
       Spend at least five minutes observing the route before climbing. Try to memorize every detail—the shape of holds, rest positions, etc. Some holds may become invisible once you’re on the wall due to sight lines. Focus on the challenges the route presents, not its grade; approach the wall with a pure mindset, not thinking things like “this might be my first 5.11c/d on-sight” or “someone is watching me.”  
       2. Rest Points:  
       Seize every opportunity to recover strength and energy. First, identify the obvious rest spots (big jugs, stems, kneebars, etc.), then look for holds where you can use both hands or matched holds—especially between small holds—to alternate and shake out. Also, watch out for clip-in points that may drain a lot of energy from one arm (plan accordingly).  
       The same goes for footholds—find ones that help you stay balanced.  
       3. Prepare Possible Beta Solutions:  
       Visualize all possible moves in advance—Plan A, Plan B, etc. If one doesn’t work, quickly try another, making the most of your strengths. Often, your first instinctive move is the one most likely to help you break through.  
       4. Don’t Underestimate Easy Sections:  
       After struggling through a hard section, even an easy part can wear you out. Don’t underestimate anything—give your all from start to finish, staying focused. There’s nothing worse than falling on a “dog route” move after crushing a crux on your on-sight.  
       5. Conserve Energy:  
       Some routes have extremely demanding final moves that aren’t always obvious from the ground on an on-sight. Take rests when you can, even if you feel okay—because you never truly know what’s coming next.  
       6. Go All Out Until the End:  
       To make a breakthrough, you can’t give up easily—no matter how graceful or pretty it looks. Fight, give it your all—dyno, power moves, brute force—until you’ve spent every last bit of energy in your blood. Never say “lower me,” never grab a quickdraw, never give up. But all of the above only applies when it’s safe to do so—‘safety first, goals second, ego last.’