Have you ever seen someone nimbly climbing up an icefall formed from frozen cliffs, against the rocks, under the sun, amid ice and snow — a thrill to the nerves, as if time has stopped at that very moment...
The average person might start imagining the dramatic scenes of climbing glaciers in movies. This is the "Waltz on the Icefall" — ice climbing. Like rock climbing, it originates from alpine mountaineering. Once an unfamiliar extreme sport, it is also a challenge to nature. Nowadays, in China, more and more people are falling madly in love with it, making it a part of their lives.
Ice Climbing in Beijing
In the days leading up to Chinese New Year, Beijing residents are busy shopping and visiting each other, as the festive atmosphere grows stronger.
Without the delicate beauty of the south or the desolation of the northern frontier, Beijing still boasts spectacular icefalls. Deep in the mountain valleys on the eastern foothills of the Yunmeng Mountains, stretching from south to north, are the Yunmeng Gorge, Peach Blossom Fairy Valley, Black Dragon Pool, Nine-Bend Valley, Capital’s First Waterfall, Qingliang Valley, and Tianxian Waterfall, among others. By deep winter, this area naturally becomes a gathering spot for ice climbers.
Around Christmas time, the ice walls around Beijing become hard enough for climbing. At this point, several seasoned ice climbing enthusiasts with years of experience get together and, in their words, spend a comfortable day in the mountains. Thus begins the months-long ice climbing feast.
Beijing’s Veteran Outdoor Enthusiasts: Kang Hua, an early participant in grassroots rock climbing and founder of the Tibet Mountaineering School; Gao Qing, a senior instructor at CMDI (China Mountaineering and Mountaineering Training Institute), specializing in mountaineering and ice climbing. They are also among China’s first generation of professional ice climbers. "Beijing has over a hundred ice walls, all formed naturally from waterfalls. They are more stable and reliable for climbing, less prone to breaking. From just over a dozen ice climbers initially to now several hundred regulars each year." On weekends, they leave behind the complexities of office work, put on cold-weather gear, bring specialized equipment, prepare dry food and hot water, plan their climbing routes, and set off.
Conquering the Cliff
For Kang Hua and Gao Qing, ice climbing and rock climbing are as essential as eating and sleeping.
The reporter joined them in their vehicle, driving through the gray winter haze of Beijing. Two hours later, we arrived in Miyun and headed straight for the ice walls in Peach Blossom Fairy Valley. There were no noisy crowds, only the cries of crows in the bare treetops echoing through the valley.
The quiet Peach Blossom Fairy Waterfall, with gusts of cold wind, featured mirror-like ice walls that sent chills down the spine. Looking up, a breathtaking natural icefall plunged hundreds of feet down the mountainside, stretching across mid-air cliffs — a magnificent wonder formed by winter freezing.
Under the guidance of some of China’s top ice climbing experts, the reporter donned heavy ice climbing boots, strapped on crampons that crunched on the ice, and stepped carefully along a narrow mountain path. Ascending a steep slope littered with rocks and ice, they trembled their way to the base of the icefall. Looking back, the drop was bottomless.
With ice axes, crampons, ice screws, helmets, and safety ropes all in place, Gao Qing leaped toward the cliff face. Swinging the ice axe with force and kicking his feet, he stood firmly on the ice wall, positioning his limbs in a stable three-point stance, then moved sideways like a gecko.
"ICE!" This is the mandatory warning cry of ice climbers when falling ice is dislodged. Whether it's from the axe striking the ice or the crampons kicking in, chunks — some as big as millstones, others as small as goose eggs — often tumble down. Injuries from falling ice are common, so climbers and belayers always wear professional helmets, though getting hit and hurt remains a risk.
While Gao Qing climbed, Kang Hua provided protection. The two worked in perfect sync. In no time, Gao Qing’s figure had disappeared from our upward gaze, leaving only the reflected glare of sunlight on the ice wall.
"Safe, belay off." He seemed to have reached the top, beginning to drive in the final ice screw and set up the artificial anchor chain at the top. "Done, belay back on." Holding the dynamic rope, he slowly descended, completing a flawless lead climb.
"Ready?" "Checked, you can start, climbing!" Looking at the pre-rigged route, the reporter tied a Prusik knot on their harness, double-checked the connections, and began their first ice climbing experience.
On the ice wall dozens of meters above the ground, only the heavy breathing and the rhythmic thuds of the ice axe could be heard. Cold fingertips felt the vibrations transmitted the moment the axe struck the ice, while sunlight glinted off flying ice chips that scattered in front of the eyes.
Although the reporter had prior rock climbing experience, being suspended on an ice wall, facing such heights and near-vertical cliffs, gradually brought fatigue. Hands began to tremble, sweat soaked the back. "If you want to quit, don’t climb. Loosen your arms, keep your balance, and persevere." Amid such encouragement, focus became essential. Crampons gripped tightly onto the ice, the ice axe hacked resolutely into the wall. Ice chunks fell away with a rush, and on the bone-chilling surface, the crisp sound of falling ice filled the ears. With a mix of fear and confidence, they continued swinging the axe upward. And with every ascent, joy flooded their entire being.
Climbing Through Life
Nearly forty-year-old Kang Hua is lean yet vigorous, while Gao Qing, once a military officer, is sturdy and powerful. They’ve made ice climbing a vital part of life. From rock climbing to ice climbing, this passion has endured for over a decade. They have gradually become “pioneers” in the mountaineering and ice climbing community.
In 1997, Kang Hua first encountered rock climbing at the Xuanwu Gate Climbing Gym and poured all his energy, money, and resources into it. Training, competing, observing, sourcing gear, networking with top climbers, and seeking every opportunity to develop outdoor routes.
They are widely recognized in the outdoor community as among the few elite Chinese climbers who possess comprehensive climbing skills. They are also “celebrities” in the international climbing scene.
In 2003, while ice climbing in Peach Blossom Fairy Valley, Gao Qing met Kang Hua and French alpine climbing coach Olivier. They were training the first cohort of CMDI ice climbing students — marking the inaugural year of organized ice climbing in China.
"From then on, we started ice climbing together, learning from their teachings. I truly began to understand that ice climbing is a unique sport and lifestyle. I’ve been following it ever since, meeting people in the circle, until I fell in love with it," said Gao Qing.
Whether Gao Qing or Kang Hua, after over ten years of ice climbing, their gecko-like figures have left traces in the snowy mountains of Canada, France, and the Alps. But Beijing’s icefalls remain their favorite.
Due to inexperience and basic gear, they both experienced China’s first serious incident of a major fall during grassroots ice climbing. During one accidental slip, Gao Qing was hit by falling ice that shattered his leg bone, while Kang Hua suffered a spinal injury from a plunge off a cliff.
The injuries didn’t dampen their passion. After recovering, they became regulars in ice and rock climbing, gaining intimate knowledge of most of China’s climbing routes and terrains. Their dedication allowed the wild dreams harbored within them to blossom through ice climbing and mountaineering.
This is also the price paid by ice climbers during the period of exploration and development. What they gained in return was a wealth of experience and the safety assurance for those who would come after them.
It is human instinct to keep conquering new heights. Faced with his dreams, Kang Hua even gave up a lucrative salary and the hustle and bustle of city life, choosing instead to settle in a remote border area where he built a small indoor climbing gym in Tibet. He continues to train and stays in touch with friends in Beijing.
Gao Qing said that for him and his group of climbing enthusiasts, living in Beijing is a true blessing. Whenever the perfect climbing season is about to end, starting from the first fallen autumn leaf, their enthusiasm begins to shift as they prepare for the approaching ice climbing season.