The first Chinese judge in the history of the Piolet d'Or: KAILAS climber Liu Yong
After the enthusiastic tour of the 2011 Banff Mountain Film Festival in China, in March 2012 we will welcome another exciting outdoor event known as the "Oscar of Mountaineering" — the Piolet d'Or awards. This year marks the 20th anniversary of the Piolet d'Or, and unlike previous years, this time on the world’s top outdoor stage, in addition to numerous milestones in Chinese mountaineering, there will also be many outstanding climbers emerging from China’s grassroots community. Among them, KAILAS climber Liu Yong, who in 2011 led an expedition to Yangmaiyong Peak and achieved the first ascent of its north face, is one of the most outstanding representatives. It is reported that this is the first time a Chinese face has appeared among the Piolet d'Or judges. Liu Yong’s invitation as one of the six international judges fully demonstrates the global mountaineering community’s high recognition of the level and history of Chinese grassroots mountaineering.
Judges’ introduction on the official Piolet d'Or website: http://www.pioletsdor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=201&Itemid=348&lang=en
Liu Yong: A rising explorer and mountaineer from Chengdu, Sichuan (China), Liu Yong has studied and traveled abroad for climbing, with footsteps across the Alps, Nepal, and southwestern China. Currently working as a high-altitude guide, Liu is not only an expert in high-altitude health and nutrition but also one of the new-generation climbers active in China’s mountaineering circle.
Liu Yong: A rising explorer and mountaineer from Chengdu, Sichuan (China), Liu Yong has studied and traveled abroad for climbing, with footsteps across the Alps, Nepal, and southwestern China. Currently working as a high-altitude guide, Liu is not only an expert in high-altitude health and nutrition but also one of the new-generation climbers active in China’s mountaineering circle.
Liu Yong and his teammates successfully make the first north-face ascent of Yangmaiyong
It is worth mentioning that the first ascent of Yangmaiyong by Zhanshan, Liu Yong, A Su, and Tim was initially not shortlisted due to concerns over Liu Yong’s judging role. However, after discussion among the Piolet d'Or selection committee, considering the significance and impact of this Chinese ascent, the list of nominated climbs has now been updated, and the first ascent of Yangmaiyong has been officially included in the nomination list.
Five things you must know about the Piolet d'Or:
Piolet d'Or
The "Piolet d’Or" — the Golden Ice Axe Award — was established in 1991 by Guy Chaumreuil and Jean-Claude Marmier. It annually recognizes and rewards the most remarkable alpine-style ascents. As a bold initiative, the event has been co-hosted every year by GHM (Groupe Haute Montagne) and the Montagne magazine, quickly gaining prestige within the international mountaineering community.
The primary selection criteria for the Piolet d'Or are the technical difficulty and passionate commitment demonstrated in the climbs, along with the originality of the objectives and innovative approaches. After 20 years of development, today’s Piolet d'Or has truly become the "Oscar of Mountaineering."
Winners of the 2006 Piolet d'Or, Steve House (right) and Vince Anderson (center)
The mission of the Piolet d'Or is to select the greatest ascents of the year. Its purpose is to celebrate the spirit of exploration and the art of climbing, showcasing the world’s most magnificent peaks — a great tribute to mountaineering. Its ethos draws inspiration from the long history of the sport. The value of the Piolet d'Or lies in exploring unknown regions of the Earth, discovering exceptional climbers, and demonstrating the will to survive under extreme risk. It is a celebration for rope teams, highlighting the evolution of mountaineering, uniting the mountaineering community, and recognizing individual and collective achievements.
For modern mountaineering, the core principle is the approach. Mountaineering is no longer simply about success, nor about expenses and logistical means (such as oxygen bottles, fixed ropes, and porters). It is about writing a new chapter of imagination — achieving great climbs with minimal equipment and understanding the natural environment. It is a matter of belief, courage, and wisdom.