When feeling down in the city, you might suddenly get the urge to give yourself a holiday. Head straight for the snowy plateau to cycle through Tibet—past snow-capped mountains and meadows, from temples to peaks, from bustling towns to the next unfamiliar village. Along the way, encounter different landscapes and experience varied moods. Go where your heart takes you, adapt to whatever comes, without fussing over comfort or the coldness of human nature and the struggles of workplace politics. Just have a heart that’s always ready to hit the road. Whether cycling around Lhasa or sitting alone at Sera Monastery listening to the debates, not uttering a word, then going back home—that’s what life is all about.
Sera Monastery is the latest-built among the Three Great Monasteries
The best part of cycling is definitely going downhill, coasting all the way down the mountain, fully enjoying the sensation of flying on two wheels, leaving all the earlier hardships blown away by the wind. Arriving at the entrance of Sera Monastery, I had originally wanted to sneak in unnoticed among the crowds. But then, a tall and burly uncle suddenly appeared in front of us like a gatekeeper, holding a stack of tickets and barking at us kids, “Buy tickets!” Seeing that he looked quite kind-faced, we shamelessly played dumb and pitiful, and after some haggling, he finally relented and let us in with a symbolic charge.
Early spring at Sera Monastery is a time of awakening from winter, with wild roses all over the hills sprouting tender green shoots, adding a touch of vitality to the entire monastery. No wonder “Sera” means “wild rose” in Tibetan.
Many people come to Sera Monastery just to watch a debate session. This activity has a history of over 600 years here and has become a “signature attraction” of the monastery. The debates start at 3 pm. Guided by signs, we weaved through narrow alleys and a maze-like series of twists and turns, finally arriving at the debate courtyard. By then, the debates had already begun, with crowds gathering all around. In the center of the courtyard, groups of monks sat or stood, forming various pairings—some one-on-one, others one against many.
The standing monks ask questions in Tibetan, always starting with a “di,” then raising their right hand high behind them before clapping it loudly with the left hand, while the seated monks respond. We couldn’t understand their words, but it’s said that their questions cover a wide range—from grand topics about all living beings to trivial daily matters. Through these intense verbal debates, the monks not only exchange insights and experiences about their scriptures but also deepen their understanding of Buddhist texts. Debate is both a system of advancement and a way to pursue truth. With a sincere and ascetic attitude, they interpret the myriad aspects of the world while also exploring deeper meanings.