Haba Snow Mountain
Haba Snow Mountain, standing at 5,396 meters above sea level, is located in Zhongdian County, Yunnan Province. Facing the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain across the Tiger Leaping Gorge, its climbing season runs from November to February each year. Due to monsoon influence, winds are strong in January and February, often reaching force 8 or above. November and December have gentler winds, making them the best months for climbing.
The northern approach starts from Lijiang County, heading north via Qiaotou Town, crossing the Tiger Leaping Gorge to reach Haba Village at an altitude of 2,300 meters. Renting a vehicle is required, as road conditions are poor and landslides may block the route (especially the Tiger Leaping Gorge section) during the rainy season. The journey takes about 5–6 hours. Alternatively, you can go directly north from Lijiang County through Dayu Town, cross the Jinsha River, and arrive at Haba Village. From there, a 15-kilometer mountain path southward leads to the North Slope Base Camp at 4,000 meters. This stretch passes through dense primeval forests, where getting lost is easy, so a local guide is necessary. The hike takes 6–8 hours.
The western approach involves traveling north from Qiaotou Town through Songpingzi to reach the Xi’anzhi Base Camp at 4,000 meters.
Winter temperatures are not extremely low (around -12°C at night in mid-December), but high-altitude camps should be well-prepared for strong winds. The rocky sections pose no overly difficult terrain, and experienced climbers may opt to use alpine boots (though not recommended). Precipitation is heavier, with the snowline at 4,600 meters, while drier periods see it at 4,800 meters. The terrain above the snowline is simple, with no major crevasses, but ice screws and snow stakes should be prepared for extended stays.
The traditional West Slope route and the Northwest Ridge of the North Slope have multiple successful summit records, while the Northeast Ridge and North Wall routes were newly opened in 2001 by climbers from Beijing and Kunming, featuring some difficulty. The four climbing routes mostly converge above 5,300 meters, and all are highly seasonal.
Haba Snow Mountain lies within the Haba Nature Reserve, established to protect the vertical distribution of alpine forests and wildlife such as Yunnan snub-nosed monkeys, wild asses, macaques, snow leopards, musk deer, and Alpine musk deer. The reserve is a cold-temperate coniferous forest ecosystem. Around 4,700 meters, suspended glaciers—China’s southernmost maritime temperate glaciers—are found. Ancient glacial remnants like horns, arêtes, U-shaped valleys, and roches moutonnées are visible. Ancient cirques have melted into numerous glacial lakes, most notably the Black Sea at around 4,100 meters. Legend says shouting by the lake can instantly summon rain or even downpours—a unique phenomenon. The rhododendrons here are spectacular, with nearly 200 species (about 70% of Yunnan’s total) thriving from base to summit, earning the area acclaim as the “Mother of Gardens.”
Xuebao Ding (Snow Treasure Peak)
Xuebao Ding is located in Songpan County, Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province, at 5,588 meters above sea level. It sits on the southern section of the north-south Minshan Mountain Range and is one of the key sources of the Min River.
The climate around Xuebao Ding is humid and rainy. The dry season runs from October to April, while the wet season is from May to September, with July and August being relatively dry and ideal for climbing. The winter snowline is at 4,600 meters, rising to 5,100 meters in summer.
The approach to Xuebao Ding is short and transportation is convenient, just 405 kilometers from Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province. Buses travel north along the Min River through Guan County and Maoxian, reaching Songpan County in nine hours. The base camp is about 60 kilometers from Songpan, accessible by farm vehicle in five hours, ensuring relatively smooth logistics. A forest road along the Mabian River tributary reaches the valley, but horses and hiking are required for the final ascent.
Below 5,000 meters, Xuebao Ding is primarily rocky. From 4,200 to 5,100 meters, the mountain is heavily weathered, with frequent rockfall and landslide risks. At 5,000 meters, a 15-meter cliff known as the Camel’s Back poses a critical challenge on the ridge to the summit. Beyond, a saddle connects to the Four Incense Peaks, sloping at about 30 degrees. Above the saddle, the icy slope to the summit is around 20 degrees. The Southwest Ridge below 5,000 meters is a 20–25 degree ice slope. The West Side features exposed rock arêtes due to glacial erosion, while the Northwest Slope is dominated by bare rock and cliffs.
Known in Tibetan as “Sharshod Nyi,” meaning “Eastern Conch Mountain,” Xuebao Ding holds sacred status in Tibetan, Qiang, Hui, and Han mythology, revered as a “sacred mountain” by locals. Nearly a hundred alpine lakes dot the area, with the Southeast’s Yuanhai, Southwest’s Fanghai, Northwest’s Banhuanhai, and Northeast’s Sanjiaohai being most famous. The area features waterfalls, dense fir forests, and vibrant wildlife, including giant pandas and golden monkeys. Wild edibles, romantic snow lotuses, and colorful quartz crystals can also be found.
Daxuetang (Big Snow Pond)
Dubbed “Chengdu’s Highest Peak,” this 5,364-meter mountain has drawn increasing attention from domestic climbers since 1998 due to its historical significance and unclimbed status. Over a dozen expeditions have attempted it. A near-disaster in spring 2002 further boosted its fame, as the climb involves technical challenges.
The mountain’s northern side lies within the Wenchuan County Wolong Nature Reserve in Aba Prefecture, the only current climbing route. Winters (around Chinese New Year) are stable with little precipitation. Other seasons generally have fair weather but more rain. Avalanches may occur near the route in the days following heavy snow. Rockfall is frequent in certain areas. Temperatures can exceed 20°C on sunny, windless days in May but drop to -10 to -20°C at night.
The climb begins at the Dengsheng Protection Station of the Wolong Nature Reserve, north of the summit. Hikers follow the valley south for about a day to a day and a half to reach the 4,550-meter camp. The route traverses dense forests, rhododendron thickets, ancient glacial moraines, and rockfall slopes. Multiple potential campsites exist, with common setups at 3,300 or 4,000 meters (base camp) and 4,550 meters (Camp 1). Some teams opt to set up base camp directly at 4,550 meters.
Due to rugged terrain, pack animals cannot be used, so local porters handle most transport. Rates are generally acceptable at 30–50 yuan per person for 6–8 hours carrying 15–20 kg. Porters stationed at campsites should receive similar pay.
The main summit lies on the northwest edge of the snow basin, but the steep, unstable cliffs there make ascent difficult. Compared to the long, undulating, and technical North Ridge, the optimal route crosses the snow basin to the southwest edge, then follows the Western Ridge northward to the top. Given the distance and challenging rock sections, teams should establish a camp at 5,150 meters in the snow basin and bring rock-climbing gear.
The primary route involves climbing along the glacier edge and ice-rock transitions, navigating three key features: a narrow snow corridor called the “Bowling Alley,” a fan-shaped avalanche chute dubbed the “Snow Funnel,” and a short 70-degree ice wall. The total elevation gain is about 450 meters, with an average slope of 40–45 degrees. Protection can be set using ice screws, snow stakes, and rock anchors.
Daxuetang Main Peak sits at the junction of Chengdu (Sichuan Province), Aba Prefecture, and Ya’an, within the southern end of the Qionglai Mountain Range in the eastern Hengduan Mountains. Its southeastern foothills lie in Chengdu, forming the famed Xiling Snow Mountain—known as the “Thousand-Year Snow Window” from Du Fu’s poetry and now a popular tourist destination.
Xuelong Bao (Snow Dragon Pouch)
Xuelong Bao Peak is in Shangmeng Township, Li County, northern Aba Prefecture, Sichuan, at 5,527 meters. Locally known as “E’er Shigu” Sacred Mountain by the Jiarong Tibetans, it is climbable from late spring to late autumn, with weather cycles lasting 5–7 days. October nights rarely dip below -10°C. Summer brings frequent rain and unstable glaciers. Winter’s deep snow and cold temperatures make climbing inadvisable. Notably, localized microclimates cause abrupt afternoon weather shifts, especially during transitions between good and bad periods—thus, early morning starts are strategic.
The approach from Chengdu via Dujiangyan, Wenchuan, and Xuecheng reaches Shangmeng Township (2,100 meters). From there, a one- to two-day hike along Laojungou leads to Erhekou (3,100 meters) for camping. Day two continues to Dahai Zi (4,100 meters) base camp. Though the journey can be compressed into one day, a two-day trek improves acclimatization. Rugged paths prevent livestock transport, so local porters (about 50 yuan/day/person) are recommended. Waterproof gear, trekking poles, and low-cut waterproof boots are advised due to muddy sections.
This is a classic low-altitude technical peak, featuring diverse terrain without extreme difficulties but requiring comprehensive climbing skills and gear. Weather cycles are short, with rapid shifts between good and bad conditions. Microclimates are pronounced, and even moderate storms can disrupt climbs. Larger teams with longer schedules should establish extensive fixed ropes to maximize summit success, while smaller, faster Alpine-style teams are better suited for quicker ascents.
The region lies on the eastern edge of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, characterized by typical subalpine dissected landscapes, with deep valleys, numerous alpine lakes, and dense primeval forests.
Siguniang Mountain Second Peak
Siguniang Mountain, straddling Xiaojin and Wenchuan Counties, consists of four contiguous peaks in the Hengduan Mountain Range. The Second Peak stands at 5,445 meters, 235 kilometers from Chengdu, and is best climbed in summer (July–August) or around October. Known for its towering, ice-covered cliffs reminiscent of the European Alps, the area features dense forests, lush meadows, and crystal-clear streams—earning the nickname “China’s Alps.”
There are long-distance buses from Chengdu to Xiaojin, costing 42.5 yuan, taking 5 hours to reach Rilong. Accommodation and meals at Lusan Ge’s place cost 35 yuan per person, and hiring a horse costs 100 yuan per horse. The journey from Guozhuangping to the junction of the base camps for Mt. Dafeng and Mt. Erfeng takes about 5 hours. Setting off in the morning to summit and then return to the base camp requires 8 hours. After reaching the summit, it takes another trip back to set up camp at the cowshed on Haizigou.
Mt. Erlong (the Second Peak) of the Four Sisters Mountains is slightly more challenging to climb than Mt. Dafeng (the First Peak). It is a beginner-friendly peak where climbers can gain acclimatization to high altitudes as well as basic movement and glacier travel training.
The Four Sisters are known as the “Queens of Shu Mountains.” The scenic area is distributed along several tributaries on the northern side of the mountains, on the north bank of the Wori River, mainly including Shuangqiaogou, Changpinggou, and Haizigou. Each valley extends from north to south over a depth of tens of kilometers to over ten kilometers, winding through high mountain gorges. Here, under the uniquely plateau-clear and transparent blue sky, snow-capped mountains, peculiar peaks, strange trees, cascading waterfalls, springs, grasslands, and streams blend together, presenting a series of spectacular landscapes.
The Four Sisters Mountains consist of “three valleys and one mountain,” namely Shuangqiaogou, Haizigou, Changpinggou, and the Four Sisters Mountain itself, covering a total area of 450 square kilometers. In spring and summer, the area is covered with lush green grass and blooming flowers, making it an excellent summer pasture. The mountains are rich in precious medicinal herbs such as gastrodia elata, fritillaria, and cordyceps. The world-famous Wolong Giant Panda Nature Reserve is located on the eastern slope of the Four Sisters Mountains.