Written by / Senovo
In my childhood and teenage memories, there was always a dream of climbing. Before I got into rock climbing, I had no idea that scaling walls could be so thrilling. I remember it was in 2005, during an outdoor training session, that I first encountered rock climbing. I climbed a 16-meter wall for the first time, and although the next day I couldn’t even wring out a face towel, from then on, my passion for climbing became unstoppable. I started searching everywhere for places to climb, even the scenic rocks by West Lake. Climbing has become part of my blood, a part of my life.
Compared to cities like Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou, the development of rock climbing in the Jiangsu and Zhejiang region started relatively late. Currently, there are only about 200 rock climbing enthusiasts in the area, and it’s only in the past couple of years that a few decent indoor climbing gyms have emerged, such as the Liu Changzhong Climbing Gym at Dushuhu in Suzhou and the Liu Changzhong Climbing Gym in Hangzhou run by Hengyi. The Jiangsu and Zhejiang region has many mountains, and outdoor hiking is quite developed, but natural rock wall resources are relatively scarce. Areas with easily accessible and continuous natural rock walls—like Yangshuo in Guangxi, Baihe in Beijing, and Kunming in Yunnan—are extremely rare. The Zhejiang area, which has a few established climbing spots such as Funny Cliff and South Peak, is considered one of the better-developed regions in East China in terms of natural rock wall routes. Currently, most climbers in the Jiangsu and Zhejiang region focus on sport climbing, with only a handful practicing traditional climbing.
The scarcity of cliffs in this beautiful earthly paradise
“Up above there is heaven; down below there are Suzhou and Hangzhou.” This phrase, written by Fan Chengda of the Song Dynasty in his work “Records of Wujun,” describes the beautiful earthly paradise and the picturesque scenery of Suzhou and Hangzhou.
Although the beautiful earthly paradise of Jiangsu and Zhejiang boasts elegant and serene landscapes, it does not offer the kind of exhilarating experience that climbing provides. In comparison to other renowned climbing destinations like Yangshuo in Guangxi, Baihe in Beijing, and Kunming in Yunnan, which feature easily accessible and expansive natural rock walls, our region lacks such resources. Only a few areas in southern China have some unique natural rock formations, such as Funny Cliff, South Peak, and others. Among them, Zhejiang is one of the better-developed areas in East China in terms of creating climbing routes on natural rock walls. Currently, most climbers in the region primarily focus on sport climbing, with only a small number practicing traditional climbing.
With the development of rock climbing, some outdoor rock wall resources in the Jiangsu and Zhejiang region have gradually been developed. The main climbing areas include the following:
Nanjing’s Crazy Stones Climbing Area: Located in the Purple Mountain Observatory scenic area, it was mainly developed by local climbers Agan and Xiao Zhou. Currently, 16 routes have been established, with difficulties ranging from 5.8 to 5.13.
Suzhou Tianchi Mountain Climbing Area: Situated near the Tianchi Mountain scenic area in Suzhou, it currently has two climbing zones—Zone 1 and Zone 2. It was mainly developed by local climbers Bianba Jinmei and Liu Changzhong. So far, over twenty top-rope and lead climbing routes have been set up.
Zhejiang Hangzhou Funny Cliff: Located in the Lingshan Cave Scenic Area of West Lake in Hangzhou, it currently has 22 established routes. The variety is rich, with difficulties ranging from 5.9 to 5.14? (project), mostly around the 5.11 and 5.12 levels.
South Peak Cliff: Located in the Shuangfeng Chayun (Twin Peaks Piercing the Clouds) scenic area of West Lake, it currently has 16 routes. Difficulties range from 5.8 to 5.12b, with overall moderate difficulty but diverse climbing styles and types.
Meijiawu Cliff: Located in the Meijiawu scenic area in Hangzhou, it currently has five routes, all over 30 meters long, with difficulties from 5.10 to 5.11d. One route is 60 meters long and suitable for group climbing.
Lin’an Dashidamen Cliff: Located in the Dashidamen scenic area in Lin’an, it was developed by the Shanghai Climbing Fund. Currently, two climbing zones have 35 established routes.
Xinchang Cliff: Located in Xinchang County, it was developed by the Shanghai Climbing Fund. Currently, two climbing zones have 17 established routes.
Except for the Xiaoshimen Cliff, where route development has been temporarily suspended due to issues with entry fees at the Jianmen scenic area, all other cliffs are in normal use and fairly well-developed.
Recommended Climbing Areas and Routes
If you’re new to climbing
For beginners, we recommend Nanjing’s Crazy Stones Cliff, Suzhou Tianchi Mountain Cliff, South Peak Cliff, and Xinchang Cliff. These areas mostly feature beginner-friendly routes with moderate difficulty.
Among them, South Peak Cliff is the most ideal spot for winter outdoor climbing in East China. The cliff face is clean and gets sunlight all day, so every weekend during winter, it’s packed with climbers from all over. Located within the “Twin Peaks Piercing the Clouds” scenic area of West Lake, you can drive or take bus Y3 or 27 to Wengjiashan, then walk up the stone steps toward the mountain peak. In about 10 minutes, on the left side of the path near the top, you’ll see shiny bolts on the cliff face. Route No. 4, “Left or Right,” and Route No. 7, “Golden Fragrant Jade,” are classic routes on this cliff. Both have multiple climbing methods, so difficulty ratings vary by climber, and there was even once a dedicated discussion about the difficulty level.
If your onsight ability is 5.11 or above
If you have an onsight ability of 5.11 or higher and plenty of outdoor climbing experience, then Hangzhou’s Funny Cliff and Lin’an Dashidamen Cliff are your best choices, as they offer a rich and concentrated selection of routes.
Hangzhou’s Funny Cliff is currently the most concentrated natural climbing area in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. The first lead climbing route in Hangzhou was established here, and it also hosts the hardest outdoor route in East China. The cliff is expansive, clean, and scenic. There are now over twenty established climbing routes, and it has been the venue for the East China Outdoor Climbing Festival for several years. The cliff is located in the Dawu Basin of the Lingshan Cave Scenic Area in Zhoupuxian, about a 30-minute drive from downtown Hangzhou with very convenient transportation. From the city center, take the Hangzhou–Fuyang Highway toward Hangzhou Safari Park, turn right at the junction with the Hang-Xin-Jing Expressway and National Highway 320, drive straight for about seven kilometers, then turn left at the first traffic light and follow the signs for the Lingshan Cave Scenic Area up the mountain. After passing a barbecue site, descend into the Dawu Basin where you’ll see a large expanse of cliff face on the left. Cars can drive right up to the base of the cliff. Funny Cliff features several well-known overhanging routes in China, such as Route No. 4, “One Thousand Five Hundred Strikes” (difficulty 5.13d), Route No. 5, “Xiaoqing Line 5.13a,” and Route No. 6, “Birthday Gift 5.13c.” In addition to these classics, there are also several long routes around the 5.10 difficulty level. The famous “Climbers’ Family” route is over fifty meters long with two pitches and 21 quickdraws. At the top, you can enjoy a view of the entire Dawu Basin.
Lin’an Dashidamen Cliff currently has 35 established routes across two climbing areas, with difficulties ranging from 5.8 to 5.12. The routes are relatively concentrated. The Xiaoshimen area has been turned into a scenic spot with an entry fee. Classic routes include Route No. 5, “No Railing Zone,” which spans two pitches totaling 25 meters (difficulty 5.10+/5.11a); Route No. 6, “Singapore Sling” (difficulty 5.12a); and Route No. 7, “315” (difficulty 5.12d). The cliff is located in the Changhua area of Lin’an. Take the Hang-Hui Expressway toward Huangshan and Lin’an, exit at Jiekou, turn right about 500 meters, then left at the sign for Shiwucheng Scenic Area to reach Xiaoshimen Cliff.
Zhejiang’s “Getu”—A New Frontier
In 2011, the Petzl RocTrip China Guizhou Ziyun Getu International Climbing Exchange Conference was grandly held at the Getu River Scenic Area, captivating all climbers with its massive cave. By chance, a climber from Jinhua, DDV, discovered another spectacular cave in Xian Dong Village, Shangfang Town (north of Quzhou, Zhejiang Province), in Dujiatian Huping. The cave is 60 meters high, nearly 20 meters wide, and about 100 meters deep, with entrances at both ends allowing passage through. Inside are stalactites, and the cave mouth is flanked by vast rock walls. After exploration, three sport climbing routes and two top-rope routes have been established. If fully developed, the cave could host over a hundred routes.
It takes about three hours to drive from downtown Hangzhou to the cliff base. Take the Hang-Xin-Jing Expressway toward Quzhou, exit at Hangtou, follow Provincial Road S305 toward Shangfang Town, pass through the town, then turn right 20 minutes after crossing the Shangfang Town Bridge toward Xian Dong Village, Dujiatian—you’ll see the cliff. Below the cliff is Dujiatian Village, which has guesthouses. The closest accommodation to the cliff is a hotel with rooms at 100 yuan, and meals are very affordable with delicious local cuisine. The area has good reception capacity, with over twenty standard rooms and a large yard outside, making camping possible.
Outdoor Adventure Tips
Currently, in the Jiangsu-Zhejiang region, the developed routes up to the top protection station use a top chain system for part of the route, while the rest employ a double hanger plus top anchor system. These can only be used for rappelling—under no circumstances should they be used for top-rope climbing. Remember this!
Nanfeng Peak and Kexiao Rock Wall are public scenic areas that attract many visitors on weekends, so please be mindful not to disturb other tourists during your climb. The area where Xiaoshimen is located has been developed for tourism. After communication and coordination with management, climbers are allowed to climb freely, but must ensure they do not disrupt the normal order of the scenic area. Open flames are not permitted outdoors.