Taipei’s classic street food: cabbage rice and pork rib soup cooked over a stove

Text and photos bySan Gao Eats Han

After all, Yansan Night Market is quite close to where I used to live in Taipei, so I’m somewhat familiar with it. Counting it out, there are still a few stalls here that I’d be interested in. The last time I visited Daqiaotou Rice Dumplings, the cabbage rice and pork rib soup stall next door had already closed up. This time, I came to give it a try.

The shop has a slightly old-fashioned vibe, with a few half-outdoor elementary school-style desks and chairs. They sell simple fare: pork rib soup and cabbage rice, a set for NT$90.

Pork rib soup is a very homey dish—many families make it at home. Back when my mom made pork rib soup, she would choose ribs with plenty of meat, a bit of fat on the edges, and ones that wouldn’t get tough even after long cooking. She would use plenty of meat and radish, making the soup sweet, rich, and full of flavor.

The pork rib meat from this stove-top stall is of decent quality, though the meat from this part can be slightly tough due to the fibers. It’s not really my preference. But the chili soy sauce has always been a dipping sauce that hits the spot. The soup tastes clean and sweet without being murky, though the meatiness is a bit lacking—it’s more of a refreshing style.

I haven’t had this kind of old-fashioned stir-fried and then steamed cabbage rice in ages. For some reason, you hardly see it sold anywhere these days. The ingredients in the rice from this stove-top stall aren’t particularly abundant—there’s a faint sweetness from the cabbage and the aroma of scallion oil. The flavor isn’t greasy or heavy, very plain but also very smooth. The rice grains are mostly okay, though there’s a small clump stuck together.

Although it’s not entirely to my taste, it’s still pretty solid and decent. Speaking of which, I have to mention the “Beidou-style” cabbage rice—the combination of cabbage and rice (plus pig skin) is shockingly delicious. Next time I go to Beidou, I’ll definitely have to try it again~

Stove-top Cabbage Rice and Original Pork Rib Soup

Address: Entrance of Lane 17, Section 3, Yanping North Road, Datong District, Taipei City
Business hours: Friday–Sunday, 9:00 AM–8:00 PM

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