Recently, I posted two travelogues titled "The Sun Shines on the Sanggan River"……. After those posts, some friends expressed interest in the Sanggan River and wanted to travel in the Sanggan River basin. At their request, I have compiled my multiple visits and divided them by direction, sharing them here for interested travelers to reference.
The Sanggan River is a river that originates in Shanxi, flows through Hebei, and then joins the Haihe River in Beijing. It has a vast drainage area and many scenic highlights.
If you want to see everything the Sanggan River basin has to offer, it indeed takes a lot of time. Based on your own preferences and schedule, it’s more suitable to visit selectively over several trips or seasons.
Sanggan River Basin Self-Drive Travel Guide –
2-Day Self-Drive Tour of Sanggan River Canyon
Route: Beijing – Huailai – Zhuolu – Xuanhua Sanggan River Grand Canyon – Return via the same route, or via Wangjiawan Bridge towards Xuanhua, then enter S30 (Xuan-Da Expressway) at Shenjing Town, and return to Beijing via G6 after turning into Xuanhua
Distance: Round trip approximately 400 km
Highlights: Travel along the river, follow the main canyon route, view the "Sky Temple" Xiangguang Cave, and explore the three canyons on both sides.
Experiences: Local customs, folk culture, traditional houses, and ancient trees, temples, archways, and stages in old villages.
D1Distance: Approximately 200 km, including highways – national roads – provincial roads – county roads – village roads (with some dirt sections)
Take G6 Beijing–Lhasa Expressway, exit at Jimingyi (Zhuolu) after passing through Huailai, Hebei (approximately 130 km). 200 meters past the toll station, turn right onto the G110 service road.On the left side of the road, you’ll see Jimingyi (optional visit, ticket 20 RMB; it’s recommended to hire a guide to learn interesting anecdotes, or visit nearby Jiming Mountain in summer).Drive about 1 km and turn left onto S342 Provincial Road towards Zhuolu. After about 8 km, you’ll reach the north of Zhuolu County.(If you want to eat, go straight into the county town).Turn right onto the outer ring road (West Ring) of the county town. After about 2 km, at the turn to the South Ring, go straight then turn right onto X456 towards Wujia Gou. Drive about 5 km.Pass through Changtong Village (with some roadside shops), then enter the mountain-adjacent section. After 1 km, the Sanggan River comes into view on the left.Drive 1 km and turn left at the intersection on the left, following the sign to Majiagou.At this point, the Sanggan River runs parallel to the road. You can stop by the river for activities. In winter, you can walk on the ice—there may be unfrozen flowing water in the middle of the river, so be cautious. Continue driving.After passing Manyiying Village, there’s a small cement road on the left. Turn left towards Dongyao Gou Village. After entering the village, take a small left turn. You’ll see a bridge ahead. Cross the bridge and drive along the right side of the river.Along the Sanggan River bank, you’ll often see fields or date orchards, as well as many Toona sinensis trees—absolutely pollution-free, green food. After passing a temple,cross the Sanggan River again and turn left after the bridge.After the bridge, there’s a 7-km dirt road passing through Xiyao Gou Village and Shihu Village. After these two villages, you leave Zhuolu County. The dirt road is muddy in summer and bumpy in winter—drive carefully to avoid bottoming out. Though tough, the scenery is rewarding: the Daqin Railway cuts through the Sanggan River basin, with coal trains passing by every few minutes. Spring brings blooming flowers, summer lush greenery, autumn hangs with red dates, and winter transforms the area into an icy wonderland.After the 7-km dirt road, on the left is a large bridge. Cross it to enter Guojia Village in Xuanhua County.The road is very narrow cement with some drainage ditches and considerable undulations—slow down while driving.Continue along the Sanggan River, enjoying the views. After about 5 km, you’ll arrive at Hujia Village.
If you're traveling in summer, when the afternoon sun is still bright, you can turn into the canyon from Hujia Village to visit Fujiabao Village to experience local customs and old houses. After leaving Hujia Village, descend to the riverbed (bridge under repair)—you’ll reach a three-way intersection. Turn left to go to Fujiabao, about 7 km on cement road, mostly along steep cliffs with deep unseen ravines on one side. Drive carefully, park safely for viewing. Upon reaching Fujiabao, there’s another 2 km of cement road, followed by 3 km of dirt road leading to Xihe Village, beyond which only narrow trails remain. Then return the same way. Alternatively, you can stay overnight in Fujiabao (camping or staying with locals).
In winter, it gets dark early. Coupled with snowy and icy roads, once it’s dark the scenery isn’t visible and the roads become dangerous—so most activities stop. You can just stroll around Hujia Village, chat with locals in the evening, and if the weather is clear, admire the starry sky rarely seen in the city. Look closely—you might even spot a shooting star or satellite.
Currently, there are no accommodations available locally. Wangjiawan Township is just a very small and remote village, far from what you might imagine. There are three accommodation options:11. Return to Zhuolu County. 2. Stay with a local farming family.Most of the residents are elderly, and they all have spare rooms. If you agree on the terms, it’s not a problem—I’ve stayed with farming families several times. The people here are poor but very kind. In winter, you can even sleep on a kang (a traditional heated bed), and adding some firewood will make it warm enough to melt away your fatigue. However, you’ll need to bring your own bedding (sheets and blankets). It’s also a good idea to bring some spare clothes, daily necessities, or food to help support the locals, and you can even discuss the possibility of eating meals with the family.33. Camping.You can ask the farmers for some basic assistance, such as access to water or electricity.
D2 The journey is about 200 kilometers, via village roads (some dirt roads), county roads, national roads, and highways.
Start from Hujia Village.After leaving the village, descend into the riverbed (the bridge is under repair).At the three-way intersection, turn right toward Wangjiawan Township. It’s about 7 kilometers to reach Wangjiawan Township. After passing the township government, you’ll come to a large bridge spanning the Sanggan River.(Turn right to cross the bridge, passing through Shenjing Town toward Xuanhua)Do not cross the bridge, continue straight ahead.Cross the bridge in Lijiawan Village.There is a canyon where you can drive through shallow water, known as Feipu Gorge..It is currently under development. In summer, vehicles follow the ancient riverbed through the water-filled gorge, splashing water as you chase the waterfalls cascading from above. In winter, the river is completely frozen. At the entrance of the riverbed, the trapped water spreads out, forming a vast expanse of ice that looks like a shimmering mirror unfolding from the slope.
It passes by Lijiawan Village. About 2 kilometers ahead, on the left side of the road, is the Shiguang Cave, which is currently under restoration in the Sanggan River Gorge.Shiguang Cave is located high in the mountains of a deep valley. Legend has it that it was built during the Tang Dynasty as a “sky temple.” Soon, restored pathways will replace the steep climbs along the cliffside, making it no longer dangerous or difficult to overlook the magnificent scenery of the Sanggan River Gorge (I once climbed up the cliffside with the guidance of a villager—it was terrifying and truly risky).
After passingShiguang Cave, a road on the left leads to Yinjiagou Village.It is another gorge where you can either drive along the canyon or travel at the bottom of the valley.4kilometersAfter reaching Yinjiagou Village,there are no vehicle-accessible roads either. Yinjiagou Village is relatively poor, with many old houses. You can stroll around the village to learn about the lives of the local people.
After passing Shiguang Cave, if you continue straight, after 2 kilometers you’ll leave the small path and drive onto a wider asphalt road. It continues as X456 (the section from Majiagou to Shiguang Cave is also X456, as it was originally a dirt road and is not marked as a county road on the map). You’ll enter Yangyuan County in Hebei Province, and from there you can head to Huashaoying Town, connecting to G109 and S30 Xuanda Expressway.
By this point in your trip, it’s likely getting late. Let go of any unfulfilled wishes and save them for next time.Retrace your steps and begin your journey back.
In two days, covering about 400 kilometers, you’ll get a rough sense and experience of the depth, desolation, grandeur, and tranquility of the Sanggan River. The remaining regrets await your next visit to the Sanggan River Basin—to explore the “West” closest to Beijing. Stay tuned for the next article: A 2-Day Tour of Ancient Fortress Ruins in the Sanggan River Basin.
Friendly reminder: Bring enough food, as supplies are scarce in the small shops along the way through the Sanggan River Gorge.
Drinking water can be replenished locally—the villagers in the gorge drink mountain spring water year-round.
Winter clothing for cold weather is essential.
Bring all necessary items if you plan to go camping or have a picnic.
For those driving, ensure you have a spare tire and check its air pressure.
If staying at a local farmhouse, bring your own bedding and other essentials, and offer appropriate compensation.
Practice environmental protection—do not litter non-biodegradable waste, take it away with you.
Bring along unused clothes, supplies, and food when possible to support poverty alleviation efforts.