I. Classification by Rock Face Type
1. Natural Rock Face Climbing:
Definition: Climbing on naturally formed rock walls in the wild; usually developed and cleaned difficulty or bouldering routes.
Advantages: Allows you to get close to nature and fully enjoy the thrill of rock climbing; the diversity in rock face angles and stone types creates a wide variety of climbing routes; because the rock faces are fixed and the routes are public and can be preserved for a long time, grading on natural rock faces can be tested and compared by many people, making it the main basis for rock climbing grading.
Disadvantages: Wilderness climbing spots are often remote with inconvenient transportation, requiring more time and money; route development is also quite labor-intensive.
2. Artificial Rock Face Climbing
Definition: Climbing on artificially constructed climbing walls, including indoor climbing gyms and outdoor artificial rock faces.
Advantages: Safer for beginners; convenient and time-saving; fewer unforeseeable factors, allowing for regular or specialized training; crowded environment encourages communication and practice; additionally, artificial walls can have routes set with confidentiality, making them the main format for rock climbing competitions.
Disadvantages: Lack of special terrains and limited creativity, with less freedom for improvisation; adjustable holds mean that artificial wall routes often change, grading tends to be more subjective, and accuracy is relatively lower.
II. Classification by Climbing Style
1. Free Climbing (free climbing)
Definition: Climbing without using the strength of protective gear (main rope, quickdraws, carabiners, etc.), relying solely on one’s own strength.
Features: This style of climbing is dominant in China, aligning more closely with the concept of sport, and tests human potential.
2. Aid Climbing (AID climbing)
Definition: Climbing with the aid of equipment.
Features: Commonly used in big wall climbing; sometimes used to bypass sections that exceed a climber’s ability. Its significance lies in the climber’s goals and journey rather than overcoming difficult moves. It requires a high level of skill in handling equipment.
3. Top-Rope Climbing (top rope)
Definition: Protection points are pre-set at the top of the rock face, and the main rope runs through these points to provide protection. The climber does not need to handle any equipment during the climb.
Features: Safe, with no impact force when falling, suitable for beginners; but requires specific rock face conditions—the height must be appropriate (8 to 20 meters), and the route should not have a large lateral span. Since it requires setting up from the top, installation and removal of protection points can be cumbersome. Sometimes, for beginners' convenience, a top rope may be set up on a traditionally lead-climbed route.
4. Sport Climbing (sport)
Definition: Pre-placement of several expansion bolts and hangers on the route. During climbing, quickdraws are clipped into the hangers to create protection points and connected to the main rope for safety. The climber needs to operate while climbing.
Features: Especially popular in Europe, particularly France. It is safer than traditional climbing, reducing the psychological fear factor’s influence and enabling climbers to push their physical limits and tackle the highest difficulties with full effort. Also, on routes with larger angles or horizontal spans, sport climbing offers more convenience than top-rope protection, allowing climbers to easily return to the fall point to repeat challenging moves. Because this method turns rock climbing from an adventurous and thrilling activity into a safe sport, it is called sport climbing.
5. Traditional Climbing (traditional or trad)
Definition: Placing various sizes of cams or nuts into natural cracks, caves, or bridges on the rock face to form protection points, then using quickdraws and the main rope for protection. The climber operates while climbing.
Features: It is the most original and natural climbing style, preserving the integrity of the rock face to the greatest extent. Abroad, older generations of climbers highly regard this form. However, it involves complex operations, requires substantial experience with equipment, is relatively difficult to master, and is more dangerous. Those interested in traditional climbing should proceed steadily and step by step.
6. Bouldering (bouldering)
Definition: Climbing short, low-height, high-difficulty routes without using a main rope or harness, using crash pads instead as a buffer in case of falls.
Features: Simple and convenient operation, low cost; reduces demands on mental control and endurance; it is an emerging branch of rock climbing.
7. Solo climbing
Definition: Climbing without a partner, where the climber uses protection equipment for self-belaying. If climbing without protection to a certain height (usually above 10 meters), it is called free solo.
Characteristics: No partner is needed, but the technique is more complex, time-consuming, and labor-intensive. Few climbers engage in this style.
III. Classification by Wall Size
1. Single-pitch route
Single-pitch route: Generally under 25 meters, a 50-meter rope allows the climber to reach the top and return to the ground. Most artificial climbing wall routes fall into this category.
2. Multi-pitch route
Multi-pitch route: When the wall is higher than 25 meters, a single rope is usually not long enough. The route is then divided into several shorter pitches, each under 50 meters. After completing one pitch, the climber sets up a protection point to belay the second climber to the same height, bringing the rope along for the next pitch. Descending also requires multiple stages.
3. Big wall
Big wall: Also a multi-pitch route, but longer or more difficult, often requiring more than a day to complete. In addition to protection gear, climbers need to carry supplies for food, water, and overnight stays.