White Lake, or Akkul, a mysterious and resonant name, is a pristine land deep within the Kanas Protected Area, never unveiled to tourists. Only a very small number of explorers can reach this area to admire this white gem at the foot of Friendship Peak.
The glowing praises such as "the last pure land on Earth, a treasure trove of flora and fauna" only truly hit home when you actually arrive here.
Due to the consistently high level of conservation in the White Lake area, only a very limited number of scientific expeditions are allowed entry each year. It takes great effort just to catch a glimpse of its beauty. White Lake has become a rare gem among high-end adventure activities in Xinjiang.
Since the autumn of 2004, when we last organized an expedition to White Lake, we have not carried out any conventional field exploration activities due to the strengthened protection and management of the protected area. Six years later, in collaboration with the protected area and relevant scientific research institutions, and with the necessary permits, we returned to the White Lake region to conduct a small-scale scientific exploration.
Starting from the Kanas Scenic Area, we traveled by horse and boat over six days to reach the western shore of White Lake in the core area of the protected zone. Along the way, we rode horses along 35 kilometers of the western shore of Kanas Lake, trekked 45 kilometers upstream along the Kanas River, then returned to the northern shore of Kanas Lake, and finally took a boat back to the Kanas Scenic Area.
The protected area's conservation efforts are indeed thorough. Along the route, we passed through seven conservation and forestry stations: Dongxilieke, Tubike, Shuanghu, Hutou, Aketulugun, and White Lake. Their primary tasks are to prevent forest fires and to keep herders and cordyceps harvesters out of the protected area. Through conversations with the staff at the most distant White Lake station, we learned that we were only the third group to visit White Lake this year.
Mid-August is not the ideal season—the flowering period is mostly over, butterflies and major insects in the valley have passed their peak, and most breeding birds have also finished nesting. What could I possibly see? Maybe bears—that’s my dream. The previous year’s record of 13 bears spotted by an expedition team was perhaps the biggest draw.
Although it wasn’t my first time visiting White Lake, this August trip still left a deep impression on me.
1. The journey was long and tough, with the longest recorded day involving 11 hours of riding covering over 40 kilometers, especially through muddy, steep, and dense mountain forests.
2. Bird activity wasn’t great this season—most breeding birds had already left, leaving mainly resident species as the main highlights. Along the way, we recorded Western Capercaillie three times, Hazel Grouse twice, and added a personal new species—the Common Cuckoo. One memorable sighting was near White Lake, where Red Crossbills were particularly abundant in the pine forest.
3. There weren’t as many animals as expected. We recorded Red Deer, squirrels, Alpine Pika, Lesser White-toothed Shrew, and three species of reptiles and amphibians.Among plants, the most impressive sight was the mushrooms—there were delicious-looking, diverse varieties all along the path, though identification is still ongoing.
4. The entire route featured pristine taiga forests and alpine valley scenery. Especially the untouched natural beauty of White Lake, the northern shore of Kanas Lake, and Shuanghu was truly unique. One can only imagine how incredibly beautiful it would be if visited in September during autumn.