Spring has arrived, and after huddling at home all winter, we can finally take our beloved bikes out for a spin. But a reminder to those who are new to cycling: there are many small things to watch out for when riding outside. Everyone should pay more attention to these. Here, I’ll share some tips—those who lack experience in riding outside should definitely check this out.
1. Make sure your tire repair kit includes a plastic cap for the valve. If the valve happens to leak air, this cap can serve as a quick fix.
2. When carrying a spare tube, roll the valve inside so it won’t poke you when you put it in your pocket.
3. When installing the outer tire, align the brand logo with the inner tube’s valve. This way, it’s easier to locate the puncture on the outer tire based on where the inner tube is damaged.
4. After getting a flat, flip the outer tire over and carefully check inside for small thorns. Use your fingernail to pick out any debris from the tread.
5. Don’t use the sandpaper or metal scraper included in the repair kit. A damp cloth is sufficient to clean the inner tube.
6. Inflate the new inner tube slightly until it’s a bit puffy. Then insert it into the tire, position the valve properly, and tuck one side of the outer tire in before pushing in the other side.
7. When fitting the harder part of the outer tire’s edge, pull out a bit of the already installed section and then push in the final part.
8. The last part of the outer tire that goes on is where the inner tube and rim fit most snugly—so even if you use tools, you don’t have to worry about puncturing the tube.
9. Whether on the road or at home, use the same steps to fix your tires. The more skilled you get, the less time you’ll need to spend repairing during a race.
10. If you’re using lightweight inner tubes, avoid thin rim tape. Instead, use 22mm Velox or OE full-width plastic strips.
11. Rim tape needs maintenance. Check it every time you remove the outer tire. If the tape is peeling up or curling inward, replace it.
12. When you first switch to tubeless tires, practice inflating them without sealant. Once you get the hang of it, practice once more using the sealant.
13. If the tire has an arrow indicating which direction the tread should face, trust it. Installing the tire backward won’t help you climb or brake better.
14. Want instant suspension? Switch to high-volume 2.0 or 2.1-inch wide tires. Larger widths use less air and offer better shock absorption.
15. If you want even more cushioning, go for 2.0 or 2.1-inch tubeless tires. Even at the same pressure, tubeless tires feel softer.
16. When riding on soft soil or hard-packed ground covered with loose dirt, avoid using 1.9-inch or narrower front tires. Small particles can sink into the ground, causing loss of traction or even crashes.
17. Pour some medicinal alcohol into a clean small spray bottle. Spritz it on your helmet, shoes, and insoles to keep odors fresh.
18. After riding, pull out the insoles and clean them thoroughly. If you wear SIDI shoes, check that the sole and buckle screws are tightly secured.
19. Put a bit of talcum powder in your shoes to keep them smelling fresh and make them easier to put on.
20. Don’t fully trust the alignment markings on clipless pedals. It’s better to compare the left and right sides. If you have multiple pairs, compare different brands to find consistency.
21. Before washing your cycling jersey, cover the Velcro parts well to prevent them from sticking to other clothes or lint.
22. Simple Green (a U.S. brand of cleaning detergent, see image) is a great bleach that won’t damage fabric. It’s also an excellent bike cleaner. For general cleaning, dilute it with water at a 1:2 ratio.
23. Got muddy and wet shoes? Rinse them off and leave them on an electric heating mat overnight—they’ll be dry by morning.
24. Can’t stand the discomfort of your hardtail (single suspension) saddle? Wear two pairs of Lycra shorts or add padded liner shorts under your regular ones.
25. Stand against a wall wearing your cycling shoes. Place a book between the wall and your crotch, mark the height on the wall—that’s your saddle height.
26. Multiply that height by 0.883. That’s the distance from the middle of the bottom bracket (BB) along the seatpost to where the saddle should be set.
27. This is your starting saddle height. If you often sit toward the front of the saddle, lower it by 1/8 of a turn. If you tend to slide back, raise it by 1/8 of a turn…
28. When riding hands-free, the saddle tilt should keep you in position. If you slide forward, slightly raise the nose of the saddle.
29. Whiteboard marker is a cheap, convenient, and widely available item. Use it to mark your standard seatpost height so you can easily reset it after loosening the quick-release.
30. Whiteboard marker can also be used to mark the position of derailleur and brake cables before adjusting the clamp. This makes it easier to measure how much the cables have moved.
31. Mark the center position of the shock absorber damping adjustment knob. Align this mark with another mark on the shock, fork leg, or fork crown.
32. After drinking all the water from your hydration bladder, blow air through the hose to expand the bladder. You’ll get some extra water.
33. If your hydration bladder contains sports drink, clean it immediately after your ride. Remove the mouthpiece and let it dry completely.
34. Twist a wire hanger into a thin strip, insert it into the hydration bladder, and hang it up to dry.
35. Carry at least one extra cleat screw in your toolkit. After encountering the worst mechanical issues, a small bundle of wire and zip ties (see image) can help you get home.
36. Never go cycling without super glue. Besides serving as a last-resort repair tool, it can also seal wounds.
37. Electrical tape is also a great hydration bladder tool. A roll provides plenty of material to help repair your bike.
38. If you must continue riding after a flat tire, wrap electrical tape several times around the tire and rim. This will secure the tire and reduce rim damage.
39. When cycling out, it’s best to carry a foldable multi-tool with a chain breaker. Bringing extra links lets you avoid shortening the chain and sacrificing gears.
40. Make sure you can identify which pins are damaged after repairs. Have the shop press them back in with a rivet tool later.
41. We’ve successfully pushed out and reinserted rivets on Shimano’s center-punch-riveted chains. Fix that rivet at home using Rohloff’s tool.
42. Carry an SRAM joining link (see image) in your bag. When your chain breaks, push out the damaged link and use this to reconnect it.
43. Only reuse rivets if you haven’t fully pushed them out the back of the chain. Stop when the rivet has been pushed out 5/32T from the back…
44. This leaves 1/32T of the rivet inside the chain. Spread the chain apart, and when reconnecting, the rivet will automatically snap into place.
45. Do you often ride on muddy trails? Use a 12-34 gear ratio. The 12T cog accumulates less mud, and the chain is less likely to mis-shift compared to the 11T.
46. If the sun is so strong it could fry your feet, remove electronic devices from the handlebars when mounting the bike on the roof. The sun can damage the screens.
47. Apply lubricant every time you loosen a bolt. This ensures accurate re-tightening and prevents loosening.
48. Apply a thin layer of lubricant to the seatpost before inserting it into the frame. This prevents rust and keeps the seatpost from sticking to the frame.
51. Remove the SPD pedal axle, coat the recess with lubricant, and reinstall it. When tightening the axle and squeezing out the lubricant, pressure will also be applied to the bearings.
50. Check if bolts 6mm or smaller are tightened. Loosen them first, then tighten to the proper torque.