There are two types of edge angles: side edge and base edge. For side edges, we usually refer to 86/87/88/89 degrees, while base edges are 0.5/0.75/1 degree. These angles are all measured relative to the base of the board. Let me borrow a web image to illustrate:
Side Edge + Base Edge = The actual overall edge angle, which represents how sharp the edge is. For example, if the side edge is 88 degrees and the base edge is 0.5 degrees, the total is 88.5 degrees.
As you can see, increasing the side edge angle makes the edge sharper, while increasing the base edge angle makes it less sharp (though the change is relatively small). So what’s the benefit of increasing the base edge angle? It can make it easier for the board to “guide into an edge.” Some beginners who struggle with edging just can’t get the feel right—switching the base edge from 0.5 to 1 degree suddenly gives them that feel, and that’s why.
But generally speaking, you can adjust the side edge angle yourself, but once the base edge angle is set, it’s best not to mess with it. Because the base edge also involves being flush with the base of the board. Look at the left image above: if my base edge angle is 0.5 degrees and I change it to 1 degree, no problem—you just file off the excess. But what if I want to change it from 1 degree back to 0.5 degrees? I can’t add back the material I removed—it’s irreversible. All I can do is lower the inner part of the edge, but then the base will be slightly higher than the edge, so I’d also have to grind down a thin layer of the base.
For us amateur hand-sharpeners, it’s best to avoid this kind of work. If it’s just for maintenance and keeping the edge sharp, you don’t need to touch the base edge—just work on the side edge.
You can adjust the side edge angle based on your needs, but maintaining the original angle causes the least wear on the edge. Going higher or lower requires removing more edge material. So how do you find out the original angle set by the manufacturer?
I remember there was a post on a North American forum that talked about edge angles for various brands, and later someone reposted it on GreenLight. But unfortunately, the few boards I have don’t quite match the angles given there; I suspect that post might be pretty old and less reliable. Also, boards sold in different regions may not have been factory-beveled—the first sharpening might have been done by the dealer, so there’s no universal standard. Plus, according to that post, the same brand uses the same edge angle from beginner boards to race boards, which I find hard to believe.
From the discussion above, you can see that there’s quite a range between side edge angles, with adjacent values differing by 1 degree. So if you have a simple sharpener, you can use a DIY method to measure the side edge angle:
Fix your snowboard’s side edge facing up, and mark a small section of the edge with a marker. Then set your sharpener to a certain angle (say, 88 degrees), and lightly run the file across the marked section. Observe the marker. If it’s evenly removed, it means the angle you set matches the original angle. Otherwise, you’ll see only half the color removed while the other half remains. If the outer half is removed, it means your set angle is larger than the original—try reducing it by 1 degree. If the inner half is removed, increase it by 1 degree. Usually, it’s within the 87–89 degree range, and you’ll know within three tries.
You can’t measure the base edge angle this way because the differences between base edge angles are too small (0.25 degrees), and this DIY method isn’t precise enough to distinguish such tiny variations.
Generally speaking, the smaller the side edge angle, the sharper it is—but also the more prone to chipping, which reduces the overall lifespan of the board. So manufacturers choose a balanced angle between durability and performance. From my measurements, all the mid-to-high-end and amateur race boards I’ve checked are at 88 degrees. Friends reading this can start testing with that angle. Only one beginner board was at 89 degrees, and I’ve also heard that some pro-level race boards are at 87 degrees. Just for reference.
Unfortunately, despite all this, I still have to say: having it machine-sharpened at a shop is more durable—I think the finish is different. When machines do it, there’s sparking and then water spraying, going through high heat and cooling, which results in a super shiny, almost new-looking edge that lasts longer. If you do it yourself with just a file and an angled sharpener, the result is very rough and wears out easily. If you buy a bunch of polishing abrasives (fine oilstones, diamond plates, rubber pads, etc.) just for sharpening, it gets expensive, and even then the result might not be as good. Many people say new boards have the most durable edges, and sharpened ones don’t hold up as well—and it’s really because the polishing process isn’t up to par. But doing it yourself is really hard to get right, especially without the full set of tools. The pros do this for a living, and with their setup, they can sharpen thousands of boards—they get better results at a much lower cost than you could on your own.
Nowadays, after every ski session, I check my edges. If there’s any burr, I manually file it off because if left untreated, it’ll get worse. But for real sharpening (like filing grooves into the edge), I still take it to the shop.