Here we’re talking about small ice axes (Ice tool), which differ from the usual large ice axes (Ice axe). Their definition is that they generally weigh between 600–800 grams, with a length of 40–55 centimeters, and are mainly used for climbing natural ice walls, or scaling rock faces with almost no ice (dry-tooling) and mixed ice-rock routes, or artificially created ice walls.
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Different Types of Axe Shafts
Small ice axes can be divided into three types based on shaft style: straight-shaft, bent-shaft, and technical-style strapless bent-shaft.
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Straight-shaft Axes
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Bent-shaft Axes
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Technical-style Strapless Bent-shaft Axes
Straight-shaft axes are suitable for climbing ice walls under 80 degrees and for general mountaineering. Most technical ice climbing axes on the market today are curved, featuring some degree of arc near the top of the shaft—some more gradual, others quite pronounced. When climbing overhanging ice or icicles on steep terrain, bent-shaft ice axes are a great choice. Of course, those with a more pronounced curve lose their advantage on gentler ice walls. These curved bent-shaft axes are suitable for climbing steep ice walls and ice roofs, are ideal partners for alpine climbing, and also perform well on snowy slopes and mixed ice-rock terrains.
Technical-style strapless bent-shaft axes are suitable for climbing ice walls over 80 degrees, as well as ice roofs and mixed ice-rock routes. Generally, ice axes with smaller handle circumferences are easier to grip and control—this is especially noticeable for people with larger hands, while thinner handles are better suited for women or those with smaller hands. Nowadays, many small ice axes have a protruding handle rest at the end of the shaft, making them easier to grip—an excellent design—but when mountaineering requires placing the ice axe in the snow for protection, this protrusion can become an obstacle.
Selection of Axe Tips
Narrow axe tips cause less ice fragmentation when striking brittle ice surfaces, but they are more prone to bending or breaking. For an ice climber, maintaining and adjusting the axe tip is a basic part of routine work—most new tips only require minor adjustments before use.
The shape of axe tips is generally divided into four types:
Classic – a downward-curving design, used for mountaineering and mixed route climbing;
Recurved – featuring an upward curve, suitable for climbing overhanging icicles and ice columns.
Straight – also known as the Alaska type, suitable for climbing in cold ice conditions.
Tubular – typically used in less solid ice conditions, such as honeycomb ice or soft ice.
Wrist Strap Selection Varies by Individual
Wrist strap selection varies by individual. Some ice axes come with pre-fitted straps, but they may not necessarily fit well—the right and comfortable wrist strap is very important for climbing.
A good wrist strap won’t pinch or hurt your wrist when providing tension. If the strap’s fixed position is at the balance point in the middle of the shaft, the head of the axe won’t tilt to one side when tension is applied, and it’s also easy to retrieve the axe if it slips from your hand. However, some climbers prefer to secure the strap at the head of the shaft, which allows for greater freedom of hand movement.
Pay Attention to Weight and Balance Differences
The weight of small ice axes generally ranges between 600–800 grams. For those with less upper body strength or who prefer longer routes, it’s advisable to choose a lighter axe. This helps conserve energy and improve efficiency when swinging.
Typically, the weight is concentrated in the head of the ice axe, and the balance point can vary between brands. For example, compared to Black Diamond (BD) axes, Petzl-Charlet axes have a higher center of gravity, closer to the head, while BD’s is slightly lower. Those with less strength are better off with axes that have a higher center of gravity, while stronger individuals may opt for those with a lower center.
Other Tips
When choosing an ice axe, pay attention to whether the shaft diameter fits your hand. Those with smaller hands may find it harder to control the direction of a thicker shaft and may tire more easily. Also, for the wrist strap, since you’ll need to perform gear operations during the climb, it’s best to choose a quick-release strap for easier and faster handling. Additionally, you should wear specialized ice climbing gloves, which provide warmth, water resistance, and protection against impacts.
Use of Ice Axes
Ice climbing primarily consumes upper body strength, so climbers need a certain level of arm and grip power. If your ice axe comes with a wrist strap, before climbing, first adjust the strap’s length, put it on, grip the shaft, and lift the axe vertically—when the strap comfortably supports your wrist, the fit is right.
The swinging motion is as follows: lift the ice axe, slightly pull back your upper arm, bend your elbow slightly, and use your chest and shoulder muscles to swing the upper arm. At the same time, extend your elbow so the axe tip follows an arcing trajectory toward the ice wall. Just before the tip hits the ice, rotate your wrist slightly forward and downward while applying a slight forward and downward pull, allowing the axe to strike the ice at a faster speed and better angle. For axes with a more pronounced curve in the shaft, the wrist rotation can be slightly reduced.
For different ice conditions, different striking techniques should be used. For softer, thicker ice, a single accurate and forceful swing of the ice axe can secure a solid hold. If the ice wall is thick and hard, choose a flat spot to strike with a heavy swing—typically, the first swing should be lighter to remove the loose outer layer of ice, and the second swing slightly heavier to drive the pick as deep as possible into the ice. If the ice wall is thin or consists of overhanging icicles, strikes should be gentle to prevent large sections of the ice from collapsing. For hollow icicles, gently chip out a small hole, then use the hanging technique to climb. When chopping ice, if large chunks of ice break off, warn others to avoid injury.
When the pick of the ice axe is driven too deeply into the ice wall, removing it can be difficult. In this case, never twist the ice axe sideways, as this can bend or even break the pick. To remove the axe, repeatedly lift it straight outward from the ice wall, or push upward on the hammer or adze head, using the blade edge of the pick to cut into the ice, thereby loosening and extracting the pick.
If your ice axe is equipped with a wrist leash, learn to use it to rest during the climb. When the pick is securely anchored in the ice wall, you can relax your grip on the axe, straighten your arm, and use the wrist leash to support your arm, reducing fatigue.
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