Helan Mountain, here we come.
Group photo time.
Learning to twist dough twists together.
Twisting dough twists.
Flying high on our bikes.
Before cycling in Yinchuan, Australian international student Dainingtai (phonetic translation) researched a lot about Yinchuan’s cultural heritage. After discussing with the other 18 “travel buddies” organized by the “Hutong Cycling Club,” they set their sights on the Western Xia Tombs, Najiahu Village, and Helan Mountain. Speaking of the reason, Dainingtai said they went with their first impressions, “Because they’re unique and allow us to share more knowledge and culture.”
The 19 foreigners cycling in Yinchuan came from six countries—USA, UK, Canada, Australia, Belgium, and Brazil. On the 8th, they arrived in Yinchuan by train. After receiving sponsorship from a local bike shop, they began their Yinchuan adventure.
He wanted to take a photo with the Western Xia Tombs.
On the 9th, after enduring nearly a week of sweltering heat, Yinchuan finally saw some light rain. None of the cyclists wanted to miss this rare chance to ride in the rain. They set off from their hotel, heading west toward the Western Xia Tombs, soaking in the romance and charm of Yinchuan in the drizzle.
Upon arriving at the Western Xia Tombs, they didn’t go inside the burial site. For them, all the fun of cycling is on the road. 14-year-old Monoon (phonetic translation) from Belgium was cycling in Yinchuan with his mother. Yinchuan’s wide bike lanes surprised Monoon, who had lived in Beijing with his mother and always had to “fight for space” with cars during rides there. Unlike the adults, Monoon couldn’t shake the regret of not entering the Western Xia Tombs, and he was even more curious—how could these currently UNESCO World Heritage-nominated “lonely earthen mounds” at the foot of Helan Mountain make the list? Dainingtai told him, “They’re unique, witnessing the one-of-a-kind Western Xia Dynasty.”
On the 10th, while cycling back to Yinchuan from Alxa Left Banner and passing by the Western Xia Tombs again, Monoon asked the group to stop—he insisted on taking a photo with the tombs.
At noon on the 10th, the cyclists reached Najiahu Village in Yongning County. Their interpreter for this stop wasn’t a professional but 23 second-year students from Yongning Senior Hui Middle School.
The “interpreters” were very dedicated, waiting early at a small noodle shop in Wangyao Town, Yongning County. 18-year-old Li Shaohua, who had always struggled with English, initially worried he wouldn’t make a good interpreter. But after their first meeting, Dainingtai spoke a few words to him in Chinese, which instantly put Li at ease. While Dainingtai was eating knife-cut noodles, Li Shaohua blurted out a long self-introduction in English that he had memorized. Dainingtai was stunned—he barely understood Li’s Chinglish. They shared a laugh, but soon the two boys around the same age found common ground, chatting half in English, half in Chinese about NBA and Kobe.
When it came to expressing what they wanted to say, not only were the Chinese students using English anxious, but the foreign cyclists using Chinese also got tongue-tied. At Najiahu Mosque, American Steven (phonetic translation) really wanted to know which mosque was the oldest, but the Chinese phrase for “oldest” had him turning red in the face.
“Look, my Chinese dough twist!”
The highlight of the Yinchuan trip for all the foreign cyclists was visiting a Hui Muslim family. They were taken into ordinary Hui homes by two students, Li Jiapei and Ma Xueyang. The families arranged dough-twisting activities and listening to the imam recite scripture at night (a Hui custom where some families prepare meals and invite an imam to recite scriptures before Ramadan).
Dough twists weren’t new to the foreigners, but twisting them was a first. The process of kneading dough and the complexity of seasonings dazzled them. The Hui women’s skillful dough-twisting and sanzi-making left the foreigners in awe. Watching made them eager to try, and after convincing the women to let them have a go, they picked up the dough—but had no idea where to start. Once the women guided them through making their first twist, the foreigners couldn’t stay away from the stove, making one after another without tiring. When the twisted dough came out of the fryer, they scrambled to find the ones they made, snapped photos, and posted on social media: “Look how awesome I am—I made this Chinese dough twist myself.” (From Steven’s (phonetic translation) Weibo)
June is the “Qingye” month for the Hui people. To give the foreigners the most authentic experience of Muslim family culture, Li Jiapei’s father invited the village imam to their home for the scripture recitation. While most people would retreat to other rooms during the recitation, a few curious foreigners quietly sat near the imam, feeling the sanctity of the moment.
Ma Xueyang’s mother was shy. From the moment the foreigners entered her home, she barely left the kitchen, busy preparing dinner. Even at the table, she insisted on not joining everyone. But as the guests were leaving, she pulled aside a reporter and asked if she could take a group photo with her whole family and the guests. After the reporter agreed, her sister’s family and her aunt’s family also showed up… Soon, the camera frame was packed with Chinese and foreigners alike. “One, two, three, cheese!” Smiles lit up every face. After the photo, it wasn’t over—Ma Xueyang’s mother insisted on checking if everyone was in the shot and if her expression looked natural. Seeing her son’s face blocked by relatives, she refused to settle and demanded a retake. So everyone gathered once more in the small living room.
“Make sure to send the photos to my son’s email. I’ve never taken so many pictures before. Today was even happier than a holiday,” Ma Xueyang’s mom kept reminding the reporter.
The joy wasn’t limited to the two Muslim families. For these cycling enthusiasts, the everyday life of the Hui people was equally unforgettable. Take Steven, who had cycled through more than 10 provinces and cities in China: “The Yinchuan trip was the best.”