2-Day Self-Drive Tour of Ancient Fort Ruins in the Sanggan River Basin

       Recently, I published two travelogues titled “The Sun Shines on the Sanggan River……” and some friends showed interest in the Sanggan River and wanted to explore the Sanggan River Basin. At their request, I have compiled my multiple trips and organized them by different directions, which I will share with interested friends for reference.

       The Sanggan River is a river that originates in Shanxi, flows through Hebei, and then joins the Haihe River via Beijing. It has a vast drainage basin and many scenic highlights.

It would indeed take a lot of time to see everything there is to see in the Sanggan River Basin. Based on personal preferences and time, it’s more suitable to visit selectively over several trips or different seasons.

Self-drive itinerary for the Sanggan River Basin —

2-Day Self-Drive Tour of Ancient Fort Ruins in the Sanggan River Basin

Route: Outbound: Beijing G6 – Enter S30 (Xuan-Da Expressway, direction to Datong) at Xuanhua – Exit at Jing’ergou – Kaiyang Fort – Dongcheng – Huashaoying

Return: Xiaochangliang Site – Xidaping – Yangjuan Fort – Enter S32 (Zhangshi Expressway, direction to Zhangjiakou) at Yu County East – After about 30 km, enter S30 (Xuan-Da Expressway, direction to Xuanhua) – At Xuanhua, enter G6 (Beijing)

Ride tram: Round trip approximately 500 km

Highlights: Visit three ancient fortified villages and one ancient structure (Jade Emperor Pavilion/Drum Tower), and tour one national nature reserve.

Experiences: Visit a prehistoric human site dating back 2 million years, stay overnight in an ancient fort, view city walls, forts, temples, and residential houses, and sample local specialties such as donkey meat and dog meat.

D1Total distance around 240 km, via expressways, county roads, and national highways

Beijing G6 – Enter S30 (Xuan-Da Expressway, direction to Datong) at Xuanhua – Exit at Jing’ergou(Approximately 210 km), after passing the toll stationgo straight(Pass the G109 intersection)6kmTurn left, enter X456, about 4.5 kmOn the left side of the road you can seeKaiyang Fort Village(Brief introduction omitted, please look it up online). After visiting Kaiyang Fort Villageretrace your route to the G109 intersection, turn right,about 15 km (along the way you can also see a tall church)to reach Dongcheng Town,in the townJade Emperor Pavilion(also known as the Drum Tower), exquisitely built and well preserved. Ask the locals, and if you’re lucky, find the caretaker who can let you climb upfor a visit.

. Then. return to G109 and head to Huashaoying Town. in that direction, and stay overnight in Huashaoying Town.

. The donkey meat and dog meat of Huashaoying. are locally. very famous.. Every morning, as soon as the donkey meat shops open, you can step inside drawn by the aroma, push through the steam before you, and find a pot of steaming hot donkey meat right in front of you. Greet the shop owner, tell them which part of the donkey meat you want and how much, and they’ll grab a hook and a strainer to fish it out from the pot. Then they’ll place it on the scale or lift up an old-fashioned balance scale—no need for haggling, as the small change is usually waived. Most donkey meat shops also sell alcohol, with a few simple wooden tables and stools placed inside, worn and faded from age but polished shiny smooth by diners. Order a piece of meat, pour yourself a pot of liquor, immerse yourself in the life of the locals, and truly savor the authentic flavors—that’s a rare travel experience. In the evening, the remaining meat is more limited, so you’ll have to take what’s available. Dog meat shops typically serve meat that’s been simmered overnight, and whether you buy a whole leg or just a portion, to eat on the spot or take away, they’ll make sure you’re satisfied. Ask the locals to find a well-known old shop—the flavor of the meat there is richer and more authentic.

D2. The journey is about 260 kilometers, via national road–provincial road–expressway

. Depart from Huashaoying on G109 toward Xihéyíng. (This section of G109 runs parallel to G112). After driving 7 kilometers, look for the Nihewan Ruins. signpost and sculpture on the left side of the road—you can turn left here. and drive 4 kilometers in to visit. Return the same way and continue along G109 toward Xihéyíng for about 22 kilometers. Keep an eye out for roadside signs, and after seeing Xiaozao Fort (. if interested, you can also visit—it’s an ancient fort and old village),. drive another 1 kilometer, then take the left-hand path. (next to an overload control station). to enter Xidaping Village and explore the Xidashen Fort. (famous as a filming location for the TV drama *Walking to the West Gate*; for details, please search online),. then walk through the village paths. eastward for 4 kilometers. to reach another ancient village, Yangjuan Zhuangcun, to see. Yangjuan Fort,. which is quite impressive. The remnants of the ancient fort bear witness to the changes of time and tell long-forgotten stories. This is the “West” closest to Beijing. After visiting Yangjuan Fort,. head south onto G109 and turn right. (Yangjuan Fort is very close to the road and visible from it),. then drive about 6 kilometers westward toward Xihéyíng. At the three-way intersection, turn left onto G112, drive about 5 kilometers, then turn right onto S342. (Xia Guang Line / from Xiayuanhu to Guangling),. drive about 6 kilometers, then turn right to enter S32 on the eastern side of Yu County. (Zhangshi Expressway, direction Zhangjiakou).-Drive about 30 kilometers and then turn onto S30 (Xuan-Da Expressway toward Xuanhua) - upon reaching Xuanhua, get on G6 (toward Beijing)

Huashaoying is the only relatively large town along this trip, but the accommodation options are very limited. Basic safety and warmth in winter are guaranteed, but it’s common for standard rooms to lack hot water. I didn’t find any better places to stay elsewhere along the route, and the timing isn’t suitable either, so you’ll have to make do (camping is an option in summer). Hopefully, with local development and the careful exploration of fellow travelers who visit in the future, better lodging options can be discovered to provide more convenience for everyone.

Over two days and approximately 500 kilometers, we once again experience the long history and ancient civilization of the Sanggan River basin. In the time to come, I look forward to returning to the Sanggan River basin to see the spectacular volcanic ruins and unique earth forest landscapes. Stay tuned for the next installment: A 2-Day Self-Drive Tour of the Sanggan River Basin’s Unique Landforms.

Friendly Reminder: Bring enough food, as supplies along the way are scarce

Bring warm clothing for winter

Carry all necessary items if camping or having a picnic

Ensure your car has a spare tire and check its air pressure

When staying at local farmhouses, bring bedding and other necessities, and offer appropriate compensation

Practice environmental protection—do not discard non-degradable waste casually, take it with you when leaving

Bring along some unused clothes, supplies, and food if possible to help those in need