The first time I went to the northwest was while driving to Tibet, passing through en route. The second time was a self-drive trip to Dunhuang and Ejin Banner. This time, my original plan was to go to Gannan. But the scenery of the northwest captivated me so much that this self-driving trip started from the northwest again.
7.23At 4:55 a.m., our group of four set off from our home near the Summer Palace in Beijing. We exited at Dujiakan, took the Beijing-Hong Kong-Macao Expressway, turned onto the Beijing-Kunming Expressway in Zhuozhou, then switched to the highway heading toward Wutai Mountain. After passing Wutai Mountain, we turned in Xinzhou toward the Datong-Taiyuan Expressway. Past Taiyuan, we got on the Qingdao-Yinchuan Expressway in the direction of Lüliang. After passing Suide, Jingbian, and Dingbian, upon entering Ningxia, we turned left toward Zhongwei, and finally arrived in Baiyin City, Gansu. It took us about fifteen hours to cover 1,500 kilometers.
7.24We departed at 5:10 a.m. and arrived in Menyuan at 11:00 a.m. We checked into Xinhua Hotel for 130 yuan per standard room. For lunch, we had lamb soup at an old shop on the east gate of the county town—the taste was authentic. After lunch, we walked out the east gate and took photos of the rapeseed flowers along the way. By then, the flowers were slightly past their peak, not as yellow or vibrant. Friends planning to come should aim for the day after the Qinghai Lake Cycling Race ends—they’ll definitely see lush, vivid rapeseed blossoms. However, you might have to skip some of the other scenic spots afterward, as the timing might be too early elsewhere. Along the way, we spent four hours taking photos and enjoying the scenery in the light rain. Then we drove to Zhaobi Mountain. From the mountain, we overlooked the surrounding beauty—it was truly breathtaking. The reason? We had just escaped Beijing’s smog, and although it was raining in Menyuan, the view was still refreshing and comforting.
7.25We stayed in Menyuan in the morning. We visited Yuanshan Flower Viewing Platform. Due to the overcast weather and passed peak bloom, the scenery was just average. Then we drove to Qilian. We checked into Gong’an Hotel for 300 yuan per standard room. After lunch, we drove to Zhuoer Mountain. The reason for going to Zhuoer Mountain is its direct view of Niuxin Mountain. On a clear day, one can sit on Zhuoer Mountain and wait for the sunset, watching the golden rays bathe Niuxin Mountain—an incredibly beautiful sight. But we weren’t so lucky; the sky remained overcast with no sign of clearing. We had to give up entering the scenic area and instead took some photos of the rapeseed flowers outside. An accident also happened here—I drove onto a field path and got stuck in the mud. After some towing, we got back on the road, but due to the slippery conditions, we got stuck again. After more than two hours of self-rescue, we finally managed to get out of trouble using our own skills—completing what you could call a “self-redemption.” Looking back, it was all because I wasn’t familiar with my vehicle’s capabilities, my off-road driving skills were lacking, and I acted a bit recklessly.
7.26After breakfast, we went up Zhuoer Mountain again. Since the sky hadn’t cleared, I still couldn’t see the true face of Niuxin Mountain. We had to let it go. Leaving Qilian, our next destination was Gonghe County. We had a simple lunch in Reshui Town and continued on. Around 4:00 p.m., we arrived at the former dock of Qinghai Lake’s Twelve Camps. This was our second visit here. The last time we drove to Tibet, we passed by Qinghai Lake and stopped to play by the lake. This time, seeing Qinghai Lake felt even more familiar. It was as magnificent, beautiful, and majestic as ever. The only difference was that the Tibetan locals had started charging entrance fees. And not just here—many spots around the lake had people fencing off areas and asking for money. We stayed at New Century Business Hotel in Gonghe County that night.
7.27Early in the morning, we drove to Maduo. We arrived by noon and checked into Grain and Oil Hotel. After lunch, we headed to Eling Lake and Zaling Lake. It took us nearly three hours to cover the roughly 170-kilometer journey, mostly because a large part of the road was gravel—very bumpy and tough on vehicles. Sedans are best avoided; it’s better to hire a local car. Also, make sure to fill up on gas before going. I have no words to describe Eling Lake—you have to experience it in person. The Ox Head Monument is built on a high mountain west of Eling Lake. From the mountaintop, you can mostly see the full view of the lake and a corner of Zaling Lake. There’s an entrance fee here, but you can bargain. We met fellow Beijingers there—two women with a child. They were having a tough time too, so they hired a local to drive and guide them to the Two Lakes and One Monument site, and they planned to visit Mount Anyemaqen the next day. So we agreed to go to the snow mountain together tomorrow.
7.28We set off after breakfast. Though the road to the snow mountain wasn’t far—about 180 kilometers—80 of those were on a muddy, potholed path that was extremely difficult to navigate. Along the way, we passed Geri Monastery and gave them the stationery and medicine we had brought. After about four hours, guided by our guide, we finally reached the foot of the snow mountain and saw the glacier. As we approached the glacier and saw the long-awaited snow-capped peaks, several of us shed tears of excitement. But there were still some regrets. The weather didn’t cooperate—the overcast skies and heavy fog prevented us from seeing the full majesty of the snow mountain.
7.29Due to personal reasons, we returned to Xining. We stayed at Xining Industrial and Commercial Hotel.
7.30In the morning, I handled some personal affairs. After lunch, we went to Xining Beishan National Forest Park and stayed at a farmhouse nearby.
7.31Early in the morning, led by the farmhouse owner, we entered the forest park. The park is huge and requires a vehicle to explore. We first went to the Birch Forest, then continued to the Sleeping Buddha site at the far end of the park. We arrived at our destination around 9:00 a.m. and began our hiking journey. The park has dense woods, mostly natural forests—birch, red birch, and many pine and cypress trees. The paths mostly follow the river. It’s said there’s a heavenly lake on the mountain, and the river water flows from there. The river has a strong flow and is very cold, making the valley quite cool. The scenery includes villages, lakes, waterfalls, and rapeseed fields, along with mountain peaks and blue skies—it’s truly beautiful. Especially for us city dwellers, it’s a rare treat. We hiked until noon when the mountain weather suddenly turned—dark clouds rolled in. We quickly called the farmhouse owner to pick us up. Just as we got into the car, a downpour mixed with hail poured from the sky, so much so that we couldn’t even get out at the farmhouse.
After lunch, we took a short rest. After days of non-stop travel without even changing clothes, we were exhausted. After the nap, we felt much more refreshed. We went out for a walk and learned that we were at the border between Qinghai and Gansu. The road runs alongside a river—the Qinghai side is this side of the river, and crossing the bridge takes you to the Gansu side. The male and female owners of the farmhouse where we stayed are in an interprovincial marriage.
8.01In the morning, we visited the nearby Tian Tang Temple. Tian Tang Temple is actually located within Gansu. It has a long history, and the current buildings are mostly reconstructed. After lunch, we hired a car back to Huzhu County, then took a long-distance bus back to Xining. After dinner, we went to Dongguan Street to see the three major mosques in Xining.
8.02We arrived at the former site of Ma Bufang’s Official Residence at 8:30.
After lunch, we drove to Labrang Monastery in Xiahe. We first got on the G6 Beijing-Lhasa Expressway toward Lanzhou, then turned in Ping’an toward Ada and Tongren. After exiting the Yeshiduo Toll Station, we continued toward Tongren, then turned onto S306 to Xiahe. The road was smooth at first, but the last few dozen kilometers before Xiahe were rough, full of potholes—we could only drive at about 15 km/h. But this route was significantly shorter. We stayed at Xiahe Overseas Chinese Hotel.
8.03The Overseas Chinese Hotel is very close to Labrang Monastery. Early in the morning, we went to the temple. We spent about three or four hours visiting several temples and also climbed up to the Gongtang Pagoda to overlook the entire Labrang Monastery.
After lunch, we continued on to Hezuo. We visited the Milarapuja Pavilion, also known as the Nine-Story Building.
Continuing on, we passed by the Gahai Scenic Area. Since we had already seen many lakes and ponds along the way, we didn’t feel as excited. We just took a few photos from the edge before hitting the road again.
At 2:30 p.m., we entered Langmu Temple. Just as we reached the main hall upstairs, dark clouds rolled in, so we didn’t go further and instead headed to the Sky Burial Platform.
18At 3:30, we arrived in Tangke. After inquiring, we decided to check into the scenic area. Although the price was steep—540 yuan per night—it saved us a lot of hassle. After settling into the room, I grabbed my camera and headed up to the viewing platform alone. The Nine-Bend Yellow River was stunning—if you’re lucky, you can get some amazing shots.
8.04The next morning, we went up to the viewing platform again and shot until sunrise. We rushed back to the hotel for breakfast, then headed to our next stop, Huanglong Scenic Area. We arrived at the scenic area entrance by noon, had a quick bowl of noodles, and then took the cable car up the mountain. We spent a full four or five hours walking and playing on the mountain, taking photos along the way. The weather here was surprisingly good—blue skies and white clouds. It lifted our fatigue and energized us. After descending, we drove to Jiuzhaigou Scenic Area and stayed at Jiulong Hotel.
8.05We spent the whole day at Jiuzhaigou Scenic Area. We stayed there again.
8.06Early in the morning, we began our journey back to Beijing. From Jiuzhaigou, we went through Wen County to Guangyuan, then got on the expressway from Guangyuan. We rested in Hanzhong. This route is arguably the shortest one currently available. But the road conditions are poor, and landslides or roadblocks are likely during rainy weather. Before setting off, always check the weather and never act blindly. Also, keep your mouth moving—ask around more to avoid taking wrong turns.
8.07After leaving Hanzhong, we headed to Taiyuan. Mainly because some in our group hadn’t been to the Jin Ci, we stopped here to rest and visited Jin Ci early the next morning. If you’re interested, you can stay in Qixian—it’s not far from Jin Ci, the accommodations are cheaper, and there aren’t any cheap hotels near Jin Ci anyway. If there are any, they’re around 500–600 yuan per night at the Jin Ci Hotel. Also, staying in a Taiyuan hotel isn’t much different in distance compared to staying in Qixian.
8.08We went to Jin Ci early. We entered right at 8:30 a.m. and were out in less than an hour and a half. Then we got on the expressway toward Datong, turned toward Wutai Mountain in Xinzhou, got on the Beijing-Kunming Expressway near Laishui, then transferred to the Beijing-Hong Kong-Macao Expressway to head back to Beijing and go home.