Cycling around Tibet had been Zhu Haoping’s dream for years.
Two years of preparation
Led to this ride
This cycling journey had been Haoping’s dream for a long time. Since his younger days, he had been enthralled by numerous accounts and images of Tibet, Lhasa, and the Tuotuo River. After retirement gave him the time, he aimed to traverse this path by bicycle, step by step, to understand the places he had always wanted to visit.
For this long expedition, he prepared meticulously for two full years. He planned the route, trained his body, and kept up a daily 10-kilometer jog. Before departure, many of his old friends were deeply concerned for his safety, fearing he might “never return.” His elderly mother was even more worried and strongly opposed the idea. Torn between the dream destination and his mother’s anxieties, the 56-year-old Haoping knelt before her, vowing to return safely. Only then did his mother give her consent.
Setting off from Nanjing, he passed through Hefei in Anhui, Wuhan in Hubei, Wanzhou in Chongqing, Chengdu, Tibet, Lhasa, Damxung, the Tuotuo River, Anduo, Golmud, Xining, Lanzhou, Xi’an... Riding all the way around Tibet, Haoping returned home successfully. When asked about the hardships along the way, he was momentarily speechless. “There were too many. Let me calm down first.”
Crossing the Zheduo Mountain
Felt like my heart would leap out
Nowadays, the Sichuan-Tibet Highway has become a popular cycling route. Having returned safely, Zhu Haoping described the trip in just one word: “agony.” To those considering or planning to cycle the route, he advised against making the decision lightly. Though the scenery is breathtaking, it comes with immense danger. Mental and physical preparation is essential before setting off. He said many cyclists often rely on hitching rides to complete the journey. To truly challenge oneself, one must be driven by mental fortitude.
The first high mountain pass on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway is Zheduo Mountain, which stands at an altitude of 4,298 meters and is known as the “First Pass of Kham.” Haoping told reporters that many fellow cyclists struggle to get through here. Due to the long-distance ride coupled with altitude sickness, he felt as if his heart would jump out of his mouth and his eyeballs might pop out—he seemed to have reached his life’s limit. He had no choice but to stagger and stop his bike, lying under a tree for half an hour, regulating his heartbeat through breathing before finally making it to the mountaintop. When the travelers in a tour vehicle atop the mountain saw an elderly man make it there, they cheered and called him a “hero.”
Got heatstroke while stamping postcards
Was chased and bitten by a Tibetan mastiff
Throughout his ride, Haoping had a habit: in every place he visited, he would go to the local post office to stamp his notebook as a record of his journey, a keepsake, and proof. His notebook accumulated nearly 200 stamps. Many post offices weren’t located on his main cycling route, requiring detours. Flipping through the notebook, Haoping pointed to one of his most unforgettable stamps: “Hubei, Xiantao, Changyang.”
On July 9, the weather was scorching. Haoping had cycled 20 kilometers without seeing a single tree. To reach the post office sooner, he didn’t take any breaks along the way. When he finally arrived and handed his notebook to the staff, he collapsed to the ground, unable to hold himself up. The staff quickly brought a mail sack for him to lie on and turned on a fan. Upon hearing the news, the postmaster carried him into an air-conditioned office, where he gradually recovered.
The most unforgettable part for Haoping was the road from Litang to Batang—a section far from peaceful. One morning during the ride, an ordinary dog and a fierce Tibetan mastiff silently charged toward him, going straight for his legs. After instinctively dodging, Haoping kicked the mastiff in the face, but the dog bit into the large tear in the saddlebag behind his bike. Without worrying about his belongings, Haoping pedaled for his life. Fortunately, the mastiff gave up chasing after a short while. But the real dangers lay elsewhere. Haoping had read online that there were occasional motorcycle robberies in the area. To avoid such risks, he gathered over 30 fellow cyclists before passing through that stretch, eventually traveling safely as a group.
Kind-hearted and generous
Helped many people along the way
During his ride, Haoping not only cycled but also helped many others. Many young riders were ill-prepared—their bikes frequently got flat tires, and they didn’t know how to fix them. Haoping, who carried tools with him, would stop to help whenever he could. He fixed five flats for others, yet never had a single flat himself.
In Sichuan, he chatted and took photos with a group of elderly people at a village-run nursing home with very poor living conditions. After bidding farewell to the seniors, he cycled two kilometers before feeling uneasy about leaving without helping. He turned his bike around, bought a bunch of food at a supermarket, returned to the home, and distributed the little cash he had in his pockets.
Along the way, Haoping stayed at youth hostels. Whenever he met young cyclists traveling the same route, he would share advice on the next day’s itinerary and precautions. He said this ride was a challenge to himself, proving that the spirit plays a huge role—just as much as material things. He wanted to teach this lesson not only to his own children but also to inspire the youth.
Haoping said that after this ride, there were no longer any distant roads or towering mountains in his heart.
The previous morning at around 10 a.m., amid light rain, a group of people stood holding umbrellas on the S311 provincial road near the Jiangsu-Anhui border, waiting for their old friend. They had come specially from Nanjing and Lianyungang that morning. As the rain eased, a cycling figure gradually appeared on the road. The crowd erupted in cheers: “Haoping, welcome back!”
The cyclist was none other than 56-year-old Zhu Haoping. He had set off from Nanjing on July 1 and, after 86 days of cycling, triumphantly returned from his Tibet loop on September 24. He stopped his bike, peeled off his mud- and rain-soaked jacket, and embraced his friends. “You’ve lost weight!” was the most repeated comment. With tears in his eyes, he turned away to wipe them.
Over this 10,000-kilometer journey, Haoping fulfilled a dream he had held for years—cycling around Tibet.
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