Becky is adjusting at the camp and is in good spirits.
Fred Beckey, the “living fossil” of North American mountaineering, will lead an expedition team to search for new summit routes
West China City Daily: This year, 90-year-old American renowned mountaineer and world record holder for the most first ascents, Fred Beckey, is leading a team of eight American climbers to challenge the 5,413-meter-high Bomi Peak in the Siguniang Mountain area. It is reported that Beckey will provide technical guidance to the young climbers and assist them in finding new summit routes.
Yesterday, reporters from the Sichuan Mountaineering Association learned that a climbing team composed of eight American climbers is preparing to tackle the 5,413-meter-high Bomi Peak in the Siguniang Mountain area, and the leader is none other than the 90-year-old world-famous mountaineer Fred Beckey.
Fred Beckey is the world record holder for the most first ascents and is also known as the “living fossil” of North American mountaineering. Although his physical condition is not what it used to be, and he even needs a hearing aid to communicate, he has not stopped climbing and remains passionate about conquering high peaks.
The Ageless “Warrior” Refuses Horseback Rides and Help Into the Mountains
Mr. Zhang Jiyue, the leader of this climbing expedition, told reporters that on October 1st, Beckey and his team arrived at the Siguniang Mountain scenic area and spent three days acclimatizing. During the adaptation process, the elderly man displayed an exceptionally stubborn spirit—he refused horses, wheelchairs, assistance, and all the help we might consider essential for an elderly person.
Yesterday, the weather was clear, and Beckey’s advance team had already set out for the Bomi Peak camp in Changping Valley. However, due to feeling unwell, Beckey himself needed to continue acclimatizing in Rilong Town. Mr. Zhang said that wherever Beckey goes, it’s like erecting a massive global billboard. Climbing insiders liken his influence this way: his climbing résumé is unmatched, and other climbers are like newcomers trying to catch up.
The Strategic “Advisor” Guides the Team in Finding New Summit Routes
Bomi Peak stands at 5,413 meters and is part of the Qionglai Mountain Range in the Hengduan Mountain System. Located at the border of Xiaojin County and Wenchuan County in Aba Prefecture, Sichuan Province, within the Siguniang Mountain scenic area, it is a high-altitude technical peak that is difficult to climb, classified as a big wall climb.
Judging by the climbing registration list, the age range of this team is very wide. Fred Beckey was born in 1923, the youngest member in 1986, and there is also an older member born in 1949. Zhang Jiyue, the team leader who has known Beckey for over 20 years, told reporters that due to age, physical condition, and hearing difficulties—he often needs a hearing aid to communicate—Beckey will not personally lead the team to the summit this time. However, he will be stationed at the nearest camp to guide the team and attempt to find new climbing routes up Bomi Peak. Zhang Jiyue said the team is very well-prepared for this climb, the season is ideal, and they expect to complete it in two weeks. Interview: He Chose Bomi Peak Because It’s Steep Enough
Since ancient times, there has been a saying: “The road to Shu is harder than climbing to the blue sky.” The mountains in Sichuan are known for their ruggedness. So why did Beckey choose Bomi Peak, the most challenging peak in the Siguniang Mountain area, as his goal? Zhang Jiyue explained that although Beckey is getting older, he has always found joy in mountaineering, and challenging extremes and difficulties is second nature to him. After hearing from friends about the rugged beauty of Siguniang Mountain, Beckey eagerly organized a climbing team to explore it on-site. In his view, the mountains of Sichuan have unique characteristics, and climbing Siguniang presents significant technical challenges that greatly appeal to him.
The Legendary Beckey Has Been Climbing for 74 Years and Opened Hundreds of Routes
Fred Beckey’s real name was Wolfgang Paul Hans Becker. He is a legend, a drifter, a hermit, a schemer—the New York Times used a string of emotionally charged words to describe Beckey.
A Drifter: Lifelong Bachelor Who Climbed Constantly
“One reason I keep taking risks is that I don’t like Christmas shopping sprees. I’m single and I don’t have children.” Financially, Beckey only earns enough to get by aside from raising money for his next trip. According to his companions, his main income comes from royalties on his books, slide presentations, and collaborative research projects. His money-saving tricks are also varied—he constantly asks for free refills when having coffee. In Beckey’s words, “I was never cut out for a job that ties you down. I chose a life without marriage, without property, without debt. I gave up money, romance, and friendships.”
A Mountaineering Fanatic: Scaling 26 Virgin Peaks in One Year
From 1939 to 1996, Beckey successfully summited over a hundred mountains and established hundreds of climbing routes, including 23 of the most famous in North America. Starting with his first book, "A Climber’s Guide to Washington," in 1953, he has published 14 works to date.