Fred Beckey, a renowned 90-year-old American mountaineer and the world record holder for the most first ascents, had originally planned to lead a team of eight American climbers in an attempt on Bomi Peak, which stands at an altitude of 5,413 meters in the Siguniang Mountain area of Sichuan. But due to his physical condition not acclimating well to the altitude and climate, Beckey decided on the 9th to set up camp at the Mulaizi Base Camp in Changping Valley on the western side of Bomi Peak. There, he will provide technical guidance to the young climbers and help them search for new routes to the summit.
Yang Weitai, director of the Outdoor Center at the Siguniang Mountain Administration, told reporters that on September 30, Beckey and his team arrived at the Siguniang Mountain scenic area. After resting and acclimatizing, they had originally planned to enter the mountains on October 5. The elderly man has an exceptionally stubborn spirit — he refused horses and wheelchairs, declined assistance, and turned down all the help we thought should be offered to someone his age. But due to discomfort, Beckey ultimately decided to give up climbing Bomi Peak and instead chose to go to the campsite closest to the peak to experience its presence up close.
Bomi Peak, standing at 5,413 meters above sea level, is part of the Qionglai Mountain Range within the Hengduan Mountain System. It is located in the Siguniang Mountain Scenic Area at the border between Xiaojin County and Wenchuan County in Aba Prefecture, Sichuan. It is a technically challenging high-altitude mountain that is difficult to climb, classified as a big wall climb.
It is understood that more than ten years ago, Beckey had already planned to climb Siguniang Mountain, but due to various reasons, he was unable to do so at the time. More than a decade later, the 90-year-old Beckey still refuses to give up. Why does he persist in choosing Bomi Peak, the most challenging peak in the Siguniang Mountain area?
Yang Weitai said that although Beckey is advanced in age, he has taken joy in climbing throughout his life, and challenging limits and difficulties is routine for him. In his view, the mountains of Sichuan have unique characteristics, and climbing Siguniang Mountain offers significant technical challenges that are very appealing to him.
It is understood that from 1939 to 1996, Beckey successfully summited over a hundred mountains and created hundreds of climbing routes, including 23 of the most famous routes in North America. Since his first book, "A Climbers Guide to Washington," published in 1953, he has released 14 works to date.