Fan Siliang: Retired university teacher, 88 years old
Guan Qianxiu: Retired hospital doctor, 83 years old
In this era full of social media influencers and ostentatious lifestyles, just before this year’s Double Ninth Festival, there was a pair of seniors whose combined age is 171 (the grandfather is 88, the grandmother is 83). They quietly set off from Wuhan in an ordinary family car driven by their son, and over 23 days traveled through Qinghai Lake, Golmud, crossed the Kunlun Mountains and Tanggula Mountains, and finally arrived in Lhasa, Tibet. They climbed to the highest point of the Potala Palace. After that, they also visited Dunhuang, Urumqi, Khorgas, Turpan, Jiayuguan, Zhangye, Tianshui, and other places, covering a total distance of more than 11,800 kilometers. In the year of their diamond wedding anniversary, and with their son accompanying them, the elderly couple fulfilled a long-cherished wish — a westward expedition across seven provinces (regions), arriving at the Potala. Let’s hear the story of their westward journey as told by their son, Mr. Fan, who was the driver.
Without any down jackets, off-road vehicles, or fancy photography gear, this was truly a spontaneous trip. Compared to these two calm seniors, those travel enthusiasts who constantly post about blue skies, local culture, and their gear online are simply outmatched, aren’t they?
Encountering fellow travelers
Spontaneously changing course to Lhasa
The elderly couple loves to travel and usually takes one long trip per year. Previously, they had been to Shanxi, Inner Mongolia, and Henan, all driven by me, so they do have some experience with long-distance travel. The original destinations for this trip were Dunhuang and Urumqi. The plan to go to Dunhuang was because the grandfather, a former art teacher, had always wanted to see the murals there; the plan to go to Urumqi was because the grandmother wanted to visit her sister. With that in mind, I looked up travel guides and information, brought along maps, and set off on the westward journey with the two elders.
Tibet, a magical and beautiful place, is a dream destination for many. To be honest, we didn’t dare think too much about it at the time. After all, both seniors are in their eighties. Considering the long journey, the high altitude, the uninhabited areas, and the unpredictable weather, we ultimately did not include Tibet in our plans.
At our first stop in Qinghai — the Ta’er Monastery in Xining — we met a young man. Carrying only a backpack and a bottle of mineral water, he had traveled by train and bus, hitchhiked, and even walked, leaving his footprints in Tibet and Lhasa. When he learned that we were heading west to Dunhuang, he encouraged us, saying, “You’re already this close, why not go to Tibet?! Go!” Inspired by his words, the elders became interested. Moreover, before we left, the cardiovascular specialist who had treated the grandfather had casually mentioned that his health was good enough for Tibet. And so, we spontaneously decided to add Tibet and Lhasa to our itinerary as new destinations.
So, after leaving Black Horse River at Qinghai Lake, we immediately changed course for Golmud. The old saying goes, “Don’t host guests over 70 overnight, and don’t offer them meals over 80.” That’s far too pessimistic. In my parents’ eyes, life should be joyful and free of regrets. With this belief, our family of three decided to head south toward Tibet.
Bumpy ride on the Roof of the World
The Qinghai-Tibet Highway is the highest-altitude and longest asphalt road in the world, truly deserving the title of the “Road to Heaven.” Stretching 1,937 kilometers in total, the section from Xining to Golmud is 782 kilometers. The mountains crossed include Rubber Mountain (3,800 meters above sea level), Wanggaxiu Mountain (3,680 meters), and Tuotu Mountain (3,500 meters). The ascent over Rubber Mountain rises above the snow line. It was just a few days into September, yet there was moderate snowfall here, with roads winding through the white mountain ranges. Fortunately, the road surface was not covered in snow, which was somewhat reassuring. However, due to ongoing road repairs in many sections, some stretches required alternating two-way traffic. Waiting for oncoming vehicles in the wind and snow, not knowing how long it would take, and worrying about the roads getting blocked by heavy snow — that could have left us stuck with no way forward or back.
The westward journey wasn’t smooth, and going with the flow was the best luggage. Since the decision to go to Tibet was made spontaneously, we hadn’t brought anything particularly specialized. All we had was the grandfather’s walking stick, and even the Rhodiola rosea was bought along the way. To my shame, I hadn’t even prepared a neck pillow. Between Golmud and Lhasa, there were also many road repair sections, requiring detours onto rough paths. These paths were often full of potholes, layered with soft dust, shallow water, and muddy patches. Even on the main road, some sections were badly damaged, with the asphalt surface pitted and uneven, while others had wavy surfaces that would jolt passengers if the car went too fast. I drove in the front, with the elders bouncing around in the back, yet they giggled happily. The optimistic grandmother said, “Just pretend we’re on a roller coaster!”
There was another stretch where half the road was under repair and the other half was open, but the open section was very narrow, making it impossible to pass or turn around. Once you drove in, you worried about oncoming traffic. The mountain roads twisted, visibility was poor in the wind and snow, so we had to drive slowly with the headlights on and the horn blaring continuously. Finally, we made it onto the wide road. We were really lucky — we didn’t encounter any oncoming vehicles on that several-kilometer-long single-lane stretch.
Sacred Mountain Pass
Praying for Tibetan children
Although the Qinghai-Tibet Highway had its challenges and dangers, the breathtaking scenery — grasslands, deserts, swamps, wastelands, salt lakes, towering mountains, and even the salt bridge made entirely of salt — never ceased to amaze. Throughout the journey, the elderly couple remained cheerful and talkative, never once thinking of turning back. Afterwards, they said they had never traveled such a long distance in their lives. The grasslands they had only seen on TV now stretched out before them, and they finally understood what a barren land truly looked like.
Due to the long distances, many things on the road were beyond our control, such as driving time. At most, we drove for 15 hours in a day, though it was usually around 8 hours. When reaching remote areas, there was no guarantee of finding food. Therefore, water and dry rations were essential in the car. In the morning, I usually made sure my parents had a warm, soupy meal to ensure proper nutrition. At noon, if we couldn’t find food, we had to make do with naan or biscuits and mineral water. Eating biscuits and enjoying the scenery, the elders didn’t feel deprived at all — in fact, they seemed to enjoy it.
Since we were traveling with elderly people, we tried to avoid fatigue driving. Whenever we felt tired, we would decisively stop for the night. I would also take a nap at noon to ensure I was well-rested for the afternoon drive. Usually, hotels and guesthouses are rarely fully booked, but some places had rather basic accommodations. Fortunately, the elders slept very well, falling asleep as soon as their heads hit the pillow.
Along the way, we passed through the Kunlun Mountain Pass (4,767 meters), Fenghuo Mountain (5,010 meters), Tanggula Mountain Pass (5,231 meters), Tuojulashan (5,170 meters), and Shenkagangpo (4,880 meters). The father is a photography enthusiast, but he doesn’t usually like taking pictures of himself. However, during this trip, he took a photo with the mother at every mountain pass.
At each mountain pass, we encountered Tibetan people who came to pray for blessings from the sacred mountains. The Tibetans were amazed that the grandparents were so healthy despite their advanced age, and they kept bringing their children over to let the elders touch their heads for blessings. This made the grandparents extremely happy.
Arriving in Tibet, in Lhasa, and in front of the Potala Palace, something truly magical happened: the father had no symptoms of altitude sickness at all, and the mother only had slight shortness of breath.
Although the two elders were full of energy, they were, after all, in their eighties, with white hair and slightly slower movements than younger people. Some tourists asked, “Are you two going up to the Potala too?” The elders nodded. The tourist looked up at the towering Potala Palace on the hilltop and added, “You won’t be able to go up.” The grandfather calmly replied, “We can.” The grandmother just smiled without saying a word.
The Potala Palace is the highest and most magnificent palace in the world, standing over 110 meters tall, equivalent to a 30- to 40-story building. For seniors in their eighties, climbing such a height is normally challenging, let alone at an altitude of 3,650 meters. Looking up at the grand red-and-white structure standing proudly on the hilltop, the two elders slowly walked up the steps with their walking sticks, taking breaks when tired to rest and enjoy the view. Many tourists eagerly took photos with them, camera flashes going off nonstop. Step by step, stop and go, they eventually reached the highest level of the Potala Palace.
Despite the dust, fatigue, difficulties, and dangers along the way, the two elders remained energetic and enthusiastic, visiting every scenic spot and climbing every building. Returning from their long journey, their passion for travel remained undiminished, and they had already started planning their next trip.
Elderly Travelers’ Tibet Experience Sharing
Health Check: Before traveling, have a comprehensive physical examination and get approval from a doctor. Carry personal information cards, medical records, and commonly used medications. Bring enough daily medication (such as hypertension pills and fast-acting heart rescue pills), and prepare some common emergency medical supplies based on individual needs. Regarding high-altitude environments, it is said that seniors and children experience less or even no altitude sickness due to their lower oxygen consumption. Even so, it’s still advisable to bring an oxygen bag. Oxygen can be refilled easily along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway — pharmacies, supermarkets, and even small restaurants offer it for about three or four yuan per bag. I bought a bag of oxygen, but my parents didn’t use it at all.
· Companionship: It’s best to travel with family. Driving your own car offers flexibility, and if any issues arise, you can return at any time.
・Daily Life: Weather on the plateau changes rapidly, so bring warm clothing. Pack enough food for one meal, bring trekking poles—preferably lightweight and adjustable—and also carry a flashlight, sun hat, and other essentials.
・Safety: Elderly travelers should conserve energy, hold onto handrails firmly, and use trekking poles steadily. When descending stairs, support each other. When driving, avoid leaving the main road even if you have a GPS—you can still get lost. Drive less at night or avoid nighttime driving altogether. Ensure your vehicle has enough fuel in reserve.
・Emergency Preparedness: Check your phone every day and keep it fully charged. Bring spare batteries or a power bank to call for help in emergencies. Emergencies come in many forms. If you encounter one, stay calm, try to manage the situation, and seek help quickly if you can’t resolve it yourself. Call for assistance, or even faster—flag down a passing vehicle; there are many kind people on the road.