Liu Yong and MINGMA take a photo at the base camp after the climb
The entire climb took 16.5 hours — fast, lightweight, with no more than 15 effective protection points, and no fixed ropes were used. To maintain speed, there was no time to stop for food during the climb. The route was steeper than expected, and throughout the climb on the south face, there were no suitable flat platforms to set up comfortable belay stations. Repeated ice kicking caused varying degrees of injury to the climbers’ toes.
The top of the climbing route featured hanging ice, but due to good snow conditions and strong winds, there wasn’t much accumulation, making it relatively safe. However, in the case of continuous heavy snowfall, it would be quite dangerous. Additionally, above the ridge, the snow was extremely soft powder, making it nearly impossible to place protection. The ridge itself was thin and steep — during the climb, the surface had to be cleared to make room for one footstep, requiring extreme caution.
The summit was a relatively large platform with thick snow, offering views of both the Tibet and Nepal sides, as well as distant peaks such as Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, and Everest.
The climbing route had a height difference of 1,600 meters (starting from the glacier), with a difficulty rating of ED, and angles between 40-60 degrees.
Proposed by Liu Yong, all three team members unanimously agreed to name the climbing route: “Che Guevara Road” (ROAD OF CHE GUEVARA), carrying profound meaning.
This was a successful first ascent of an unclimbed peak on the southern side of the Himalayas — a pure climbing endeavor, and also the first expedition by Chinese climbers to pioneer a new route in this region. It was not only a triumph of individual exploration spirit but also an attempt by China’s civilian mountaineering community to step beyond national borders and venture into the unknown.
For KAILAS’s Unclimbed Peaks Program, it also marked the first time a new route was opened on the southern side of the Himalayas in a foreign country, opening a new chapter for the program.
People: Mingma Doylij hails from the ROLWALING Valley and is one of the representative figures among the new generation of Nepali mountaineers. He has summitted Lhotse, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, and Cho Oyu without supplemental oxygen, and has reached the summit of Everest four times. He is a UIAGM Alpine Guide (one of only 41 in Nepal), possessing comprehensive mountaineering skills. In 2011, he made the first ascent of Cheke-Go, a 6,257m peak in the ROLWALING Valley.
PEMA is from ROLWALING, has summited Everest 12 times, climbed over 20 peaks above 8,000m, and has completed ascents of many technical mountains.
Liu Yong, a KAILAS climbing team member and the first Chinese member of the Golden Piton jury. He has completed numerous first ascents and new routes, including many in China, Europe, and Asia.