On February 19, 2014, the world’s leading sports brand adidas once again appeared at the 10th ISPO Beijing, continuing to promote itsoutdoorseries’ professional brand image.
In addition to showcasing numerous new products,adidas also invited international outdoor athletes Bernd Zangerl (Austria) and Melissa LeNeve (France), as well as six top Chineserock climbingathletes—Huang Zhouwen, Qu Haibin, Liu Yongbang, Xiao Ting, Chen Hui, and Li Hongying (Taiwan)—to interact with enthusiasts on-site. These adidas-signed outdoor athletes shared their hardships and joys in the world of outdoor sports with the attendees.
HowToTrip:How did you start climbing? Did anyone teach or encourage you to take up this sport?
Answer::Before I turned 10, I lived in northeastern France, home to the famous Vosges Mountains. As a child, I spent a lot of time kayaking and skiing, and the rest of the time I enjoyed climbing trees. Later, my family moved to Porto, where over the years I tried various different sports. Back then, I really wanted to compete in climbing competitions, but the flat surroundings made it impossible to fulfill my climbing dreams. It wasn’t until I was 15 that I finally discovered a small climbing club near my home, which I visited about three times a month. During that period, I was deeply captivated by the fascinating appeal of climbing and became completely hooked, spending almost all my free time on it. Some people recognized my climbing talent and encouraged me to participate in competitions, but achieving that goal in my area was not easy at the time. After years of training, my dream eventually came true.
HowToTrip:Is ethics important in climbing? What ethical principles do you follow?
Answer:Climbing ethics have gradually evolved in recent years. Since climbing is closely connected to nature, it carries strong values. On one hand, I fully agree with many of these values, while on the other, some can be overly demanding for climbers. For a climber, respecting life and nature, as well as contributing to the development of climbing through ethical behavior and its reasonable evolution, is very important. Ethics might trouble some climbers, but for me, I just need to stay true to my own values.
HowToTrip:What makes climbing so uniquely captivating? How do you maintain such great passion, dedication, and obsession for this sport?
Answer:Every climb presents different terrains and feelings. Whether it's the intensity or the height, it’s always a challenge to push my limits. While climbing, I always feel relaxed and joyful—that’s probably why I’m so passionate about this sport.
HowToTrip:Do you have any idols?
Answer:Mozart. Actually, I admire anyone who has a deep passion for life within them.
HowToTrip:Do you have any particular climbing routes or projects you’re especially proud of?
Answer:Not yet. But it would be amazing if one day I could conquer “Mandala” or “Biography”!
(“Mandala” should be relatively easier for me).
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):What qualities should an excellent boulderer possess?
Answer:They should have outstanding athletic ability and be able to adapt to every move on a bouldering route. The occurrence of various unexpected situations requires the body to have excellent coordination and awareness.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):What do you want to get out of climbing?
Answer:Happiness and the courageous spirit of not fearing challenges.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):If you no longer engage in climbing, what would you do?
Answer:If I had to end my climbing career, the only possible reasons would be a major injury or my body no longer allowing me to continue. I guess I might then work in photography or music (I’ve been playing the clarinet for 10 years). Travel around the world, or become a photojournalist.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):What are your strengths?
Answer:Sometimes I act impulsively, but I’m passionate about life and have a good sense of humor.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):What about your weaknesses?
Answer:That’s a secret.
BERND ZANGERL (Austria)
Dreamtime (2001)
Viva La Evolution (1st ascent, 2002)
New Base Line (1st ascent, 2002)
Frontline (1st ascent, 2003)
Memento (1st ascent, 2005)
Gecko (1st ascent, 2006)
Anam Cara (1st ascent, 2007)
The unknown-ungraded (first ascent, 2008)
Entlinge (second ascent, 2009)
From the dirt grows the flower (second ascent, 2009)
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):Since childhood, you’ve been climbing. Was there a particular moment when you decided that climbing would be your life’s path?
Answer:It was the magnificent mountains that led me to this decision. I love nature. No matter where I am, I always want to see something new. When I was 15, I started climbing with my mountain guide Peter Grissemann, and I found the sport full of adventurous novelty. He came to pick me up at home and took me to Italy and France, where we looked out over the peaks. Traveling to different countries to climb felt like an expedition to me—so thrilling. That’s also why I love traveling so much. There’s always so much to discover. I’m drawn to nature. I enjoy the tranquility of the mountains. I don’t think I’m much of a city person.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):I completely understand what you just said, because you seem like a rather quiet type, and it’s only natural that you’re not great at self-promotion. But on the other hand, you created a sports sponsorship document brochure that set a new benchmark in the field of sports sponsorship—an impressive feat even for mainstream sports. It reflects perfection and professionalism, two qualities essential for athletes who make a living through sports. Have these traits also helped you in your athletic career?
Answer:Absolutely. In climbing, what you imagine doesn’t always translate perfectly into reality. For example, you might see a route and think you know how to do it, but whether you can actually complete it depends on your actual performance. I consider myself a perfectionist and an aesthete. I love beautiful things—stunning images, beautiful music. You appreciate beauty, and as you go further down the path of aesthetics, you eventually become a perfectionist. I really enjoy striving for perfection.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):When you wake up in the morning, do you feel ready and psyched to climb? Or do you need to be standing in front of a boulder to get that feeling?
Answer:No, I don’t have to be in front of a boulder. As soon as I wake up, I can tell if I’m in the right mindset or if it’s a good day for climbing. Of course, I always enjoy climbing, even if I’m not at my best, because I love the sport. But if I’m working on a specific project, I’ll wait for the right moment. When I wake up, I check how I feel—if I’m too hyped up, I calm myself down first, because sometimes too much excitement can backfire. But I do enjoy that excited feeling—it’s great. Of course, it doesn’t happen every day. Lately, I’ve been very calm. But last winter, I was excited almost every morning for about six months. I’m an early bird, you know. (laughs)
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):In recent years, which places have you traveled to the most?
Answer:I just got back from Norway, where I spent a month. Last year, I was in China, and I’ve also been to many places in South America and Africa. I spent six summers in South Africa. All in all, I’d estimate I’ve spent about a year there. Out of all the places in the world, South Africa is my favorite, though it feels a bit crowded to me now. Bouldering is really taking off there, and now I’m looking for new climbing spots.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):Africa is a place full of wonders. Do you particularly value being the first to reach a place or discover a new climbing area? Because if you’re the first, you can do things at your own pace.
Answer:Climbing has become a highly competitive sport, with many athletes frantically busy and deeply immersed in it. I prefer to do things my own way. I follow my own schedule and spend all day out in the field. When you’re the first to arrive somewhere, you can choose the best and most beautiful lines. That’s what I did in South Africa. Now, I don’t worry too much. These days, quite a few people are climbing the routes I “first ascended.” First ascents are definitely a good thing—in fact, they motivate me the most.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):Some of your climbing projects and first ascents have interesting names—how do you come up with them?
Answer:Some names have deeper meanings, while others mean nothing at all. My route names often stem from music—like stage music I’ve heard or a DJ’s name. Sometimes, I get a sudden idea and create a new word. Over the past few years, I’ve done around 500 first ascents, so I’ve had to come up with a lot of names. Of course, sometimes you also choose deliberately understated titles. I’d love to elaborate on the topic of naming, but I’m afraid our interview time won’t allow it.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):You enjoy climbing high routes—why is that?
Answer:If you're seeking beauty, towering boulders high above the ground seem even more impressive. That's the allure of bouldering—what can you climb without ropes? In the past, I needed projects with two or three bolts, but today I can do them barehanded. At five meters off the ground, it’s relatively safe; if I slip, I can just jump down—there are mats below. But what about heights beyond five meters? I’d advise you not to slip, because even with mats, it won’t help...
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):How do you manage the risk of injury when climbing at height?
Answer:As I mentioned, falling from four or five meters is fine. You have to learn how to fall. When you’re just starting out, you land like a sack of potatoes—no technique whatsoever. Nowadays, I can fall from four or five meters and land safely. Above five meters, I don’t fall unless the rock breaks. Falling in that case will hurt. When climbing, you have to go with your gut. I climb purely by instinct and never rush. If I feel unstable right from the start or sense that my energy isn’t right that day, I’ll stop immediately. Of course, there are plenty of times when things start off rough but end up going really well. It could be a good omen—or a bad one. Once you start climbing, you get immersed in your own little world, and before you know it, you’re ten meters off the ground.
When climbing at height, I have to be in the right state of mind to feel safe.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):If you suffer a serious injury—we hope it never happens—and can’t climb for a long time, what would you do to distract yourself?
Answer:Read, listen to music, write—I really enjoy writing. But I’d also want to get outside for some fresh air, even if I’m on crutches.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):Speaking of lifelong pursuits, do you have a long-term goal you’re striving to achieve?
Answer:I’m still searching for the ideal location to set up my base camp. I should really live in Switzerland. Right now, too much of my time is spent in my car. Driving two to three hours a day is pretty normal for me. If I could live in a great spot surrounded by boulders, everything would be different. As long as the weather’s good, you can go climbing and push yourself to reach new heights—that’s my goal.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):How much time do you spend in the mountains each year? Do you really climb every single day?
Answer:Let’s just say I spend very little time indoors. For the past three years, I’ve been climbing nonstop, except when injured. Either I’m climbing or on my way to climb. If I stay in the city for just two days, dealing with errands or sitting in front of a computer, I can’t stand it—I have to “escape the cage” as soon as possible.
Green Field Network (Green Field Network):What do you think is your strength?
Answer:I try to follow my instincts. In the past, my intuition has helped me a lot. Then there’s perseverance—I’m a very determined person and never give up easily. No matter how bad the weather is, I won’t go to an indoor climbing gym. I’d rather climb in the snow, even if it’s just for two hours. Maybe it
Green Field Network:So what’s your weakness?
Answer:I always find it hard to say “no” to others. This sometimes puts me in awkward situations. Other than that, I really can’t think of any other flaws. (laughs)