Who says all yokan (sweet bean jelly) is sweet? The “Salt Yokan” that values sentiment and loyalty as priceless

Text and photos by /Lin Keke

During Japan’s Warring States period, the territory of warlord Takeda Shingen covered Kai and Shinano (present-day Yamanashi and Nagano prefectures). As both regions were inland and had no access to the sea, they produced no salt and had to rely on trade with other areas for their supply. In the 10th year of the Eiroku era (1567 AD), the then-rivaling Imagawa and Hojo clans implemented an economic blockade, cutting off Takeda Shingen’s domain from salt imports, causing great hardship among the people.

As salt is an essential substance for human survival—its main component being sodium—a lack of sodium in the body can cause symptoms such as dizziness, fatigue, loss of appetite, accelerated heart rate, weak pulse, muscle cramps, and headaches. Persistent sodium deficiency can lead to heart disease and hyponatremia.

However, Uesugi Kenshin, who was originally also an enemy of Takeda Shingen, stated: “If you’re going to fight, do so with real swords and spears—not by cutting off rice and salt supplies.” In other words, he believed it was utterly dishonorable to starve people of salt and weaken them through such means. As a result, Uesugi Kenshin arranged to transport salt from his own territory of Echigo (present-day Niigata Prefecture) to Shinano for Takeda Shingen’s domain. The salt arrived on January 11, 1568, the 11th year of the Eiroku era.

In gratitude for this act, an annual “Salt Market” (Shioichi) trade fair has been held around this time ever since. In the 6th year of the Kyoho era (1721 AD), the “Ameichi” (Candy Market) was officially established in Matsumoto Castle Town (present-day Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture), replacing the salt trade with candy. It also featured traditional performances such as costumed parades, portable shrines, taiko drums, and musical bands, eventually becoming an annual festival.

In addition, locals developed a dessert called “Shio Yokan” (Salt Yokan), which has been passed down to the present day and become a specialty of Shinshu. There are many shops that make salt yokan, but among them, “Kurita Seika’s Shio Yokan” is the most famous. It once received the Honorable Gold Award at the 17th National Confectionery Expo in Japan and has become a much-loved treat.

▲ The outer packaging of the Shinshu specialty “Kurita Seika’s Shio Yokan”

The “Kurita Seika’s Shio Yokan” comes in both stick-shaped and bite-sized versions.

The packaging of the “bite-sized Shio Yokan” is very cute. Once the outer wrapping is peeled off, the yokan is stored in a plastic container sealed with film, measuring 3×4.5×0.5 cm—about the size of a small soap found in hotel bathrooms (lol). Because the film isn’t wet when peeled off, the moisture content isn’t high, but it is quite sticky, indicating a generous use of sugar. The thin yokan is highly translucent. The long stick version is ideal for sharing; after taking the whole piece out of the package, it can be sliced into pieces with a knife. The cross-section reveals a beautifully even coloration, made simply from red bean paste, agar, sugar, and salt.

▲ Kurita Seika’s Bite-sized Shio Yokan

Upon the first bite, your tongue is immediately met with a salty kick; then, as you chew, a powerful wave of sweetness crashes over your teeth. The interplay of saltiness and sweetness is intense on both sides, yet they don’t clash at all—in fact, these two seemingly opposite flavors harmonize wonderfully, making for a surprisingly delicious taste. Just as Uesugi Kenshin and Takeda Shingen, despite being enemies, respected each other as fellow warriors and thus exchanged salt out of mutual admiration, it’s truly a case of sentiment and loyalty being as precious as gold. While Kenshin and Shingen admired one another, we can’t help but be won over by the taste of Shio Yokan ourselves.

▲ Cross-section of Shio Yokan (image courtesy ofthe Matsumoto Shiro Specialty Association official website)

Kurita Seika
Website:http://www.mcci.or.jp/www/kurita/
Address: 1-5-29, Johsei, Matsumoto, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Phone: +81 263-32-3640

Matsumoto Castle
Website:http://www.matsumoto-castle.jp/
Address: 4-1, Marunouchi, Matsumoto, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Phone: +81 263-32-2902
Admission: Adults 600 yen / High school students 300 yen
Hours: 8:30–17:00

Closed: December 29 – January 3
Matsumoto Shiro Specialty Associationhttp://www.mcci.or.jp/www/kurita/seihin.html
Website:
Phone: +81 263-32-5355

Lin Keke's 'Japan Food Travel Info' – Matcha & Wagashi Appreciation Tour
Because of her study of Japanese tea ceremony, she developed an inseparable bond with wagashi, leading a lifestyle that is very much like a Japanese person’s—very strict and seemingly stern-faced, but in reality, she’s the queen of dry humor. Commonly known as ‘Miss Cocoa,’ she is also the leader of the ‘Matcha & Wagashi Appreciation Tour.’ Her specialty is Japanese wagashi and matcha.

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