This summer vacation, the first Mountaineering Summer Camp in Tibet, organized by the Tibet Autonomous Region Mountaineering Association, kicked off at the Yangbajing Alpine Training Base at an altitude of 4,300 meters. Over 40 university students from Beijing University of Technology, Renmin University of China, Beihang University, and the University of Hong Kong all successfully summited Qizhi Peak, which stands at 6,206 meters above sea level.
Qizhi Peak at 6,206 meters above sea level
Mountaineering Summer Camp: A paradise for beginners
Qizhi Peak features a grand mountain massif, well-developed glaciers, and convenient transportation, making it an ideal spot for mountaineering enthusiasts to try their hand at adventure. In media coverage, the safety measures of the camp and fulfilling the dreams of beginners reaching snowy peaks were standout keywords.
Long Yiming, president of the Self-Travelers Association at Renmin University of China, achieved his “first summit” of a snowy peak through the summer camp. He spoke highly of the event. Before signing up, he had been concerned about safety due to his lack of technical skills and climbing experience. “But later I found the coaches were very capable, the itinerary was meticulously planned, and there was even a medical team for support.” He was also very satisfied with how seriously and patiently the coaches taught technical skills during the actual climb. As for costs, Long paid a total of 3,980 yuan, covering coach fees, accommodation, medical expenses, and some transportation, but not personal technical gear (like backpacks, trekking poles, ascenders, etc.) or other personal expenses. He felt it was “great value and very convenient.”
Long believes that for the future development of the Self-Travelers Association, “members with higher technical abilities can form independent climbing teams, while those interested but less skilled can join the summer camp.” He thinks the Mountaineering Summer Camp is a good option for university students who are beginner climbers. “The Tibet Mountaineering Festival has been held here for many years in a row. The routes are scientifically planned, the activities are well-organized, and the coaches are experienced.”
High-level mountaineering teams forced away from Tibet
“At present, joining the summer camp is the only way for university students to climb in Tibet. For more skilled university climbing teams hoping to undertake independent climbs, it’s almost impossible.” This year, several university teams had to change their climbing plans as a result.
As a pioneer of university mountaineering in China, Peking University’s Mountain Eagle Society experienced a “mountain swap” this year. After receiving initial approval from the Tibet Autonomous Region Mountaineering Association, the society announced in May that it would climb Songdan Kangsang Peak in Tibet this summer. But after further communication with the Tibet Mountaineering Association, they were informed that the team could not enter Tibet and ultimately had to reluctantly choose a different mountain—Geladandong Peak in Qinghai.
Zhang Mohan, president of the Mountain Eagle Society, commented, “It’s like playing a game without rules, where safety becomes an excuse.” He explained that for university teams, there is no clear written procedure for applying to climb snowy peaks—no need to submit climbing plans in advance, let alone undergo evaluation by approval departments, meaning individual discretion could determine whether an application was approved. Early in the year, Zhang had heard that Tibet had limited the list of peaks university teams could climb to four or five, and Songdan Kangsang Peak, which the society had planned to climb, was among them, so “the initial application went smoothly.” But the final outcome was disappointing—the team was told that due to the Tibetan Year of the Horse, border pass issuance was limited, and they could not enter Tibet.
The last time the Mountain Eagle Society climbed a peak within the Tibet Autonomous Region was in 2010. According to Zhang, that year’s team was particularly strong, with many veteran members with extensive climbing experience joining. The team had originally planned to climb an unclimbed peak in northern Tibet, but the plan was not approved by the Tibet Mountaineering Association. In the end, they had to switch to a less challenging peak.
Zhang recalled an incident during this year’s climb of Geladandong Peak. One female team member felt cold during the final push to the summit and voluntarily proposed to turn back and give up the attempt. “When the coach returned to camp, he said, ‘Your people are really something. If it had been a commercial climbing team, when you asked them if they were okay, they’d say yes, go up, and then wouldn’t be able to come down.’” Zhang believes every member of the Mountain Eagle Society is trained in strict discipline from day one, with a solid understanding of the dangers of snowy environments, the spirit of teamwork, and their own physical limits. Moreover, the leaders of university climbing teams truly have control over their groups, with clear plans and firm boundaries for every step of the climb.
In interviews, the Tibet Mountaineering Association stated that this year they denied the Mountain Eagle Society entry because “there were too many new members with no climbing experience, and the ratio of new to experienced members did not reach 1:1.” But the society said that in fact, since 2002, it had consistently maintained a 1:1 ratio of new to experienced members and had never made an exception.
Similarly forced to change mountains, the Beihang University Mountaineering Team ultimately chose to join the Tibet Mountaineering Summer Camp. When interviewed, team captain Wang Zhaofeng explained, “We had originally planned to climb Tangla’angqu Peak in Tibet (6,330 meters), but because the Tibet Mountaineering Association organized the summer camp this year, we had to switch to Qizhi Peak. Personally, I didn’t really want to change mountains because although the altitudes are similar, Qizhi Peak is a relatively easier mountain.”
Zhao Chao, climbing team leader of Tsinghua University’s Mountain and Field Association, also said, “We haven’t climbed in Tibet since 2010. One reason is that they open very few peaks—this year it seems only one was open. Another reason is that the Tibet Mountaineering Association requires hiring local Tibetan guides.”
National teams, commercial teams, and university teams all face climbing risks
“Safety is a relative concept.” Zhang Mohan believes that for someone with zero knowledge and experience, climbing a snowy peak is dangerous, but for well-trained university climbing teams, blindly worrying about safety is unnecessary “because it is controllable.” Zhang emphasized that the safety awareness climbers should have is not about backing out due to risk, but about calmly and rationally dealing with danger when it arises. He insisted: “Considering safety is one thing, rejecting an application is another—the standards shouldn’t be conflated.” In the current environment, the safety of university climbing teams still depends on themselves.
Liu Zheng, a veteran member of the Mountain Eagle Society with eight snowy peak climbs under his belt, also stressed that whether for national teams, commercial teams, or university teams, climbing is inherently risky. However, with careful planning, objective assessment, and rational climbing, risks can be minimized and controlled—there is no evidence that university climbing is inherently more dangerous.
Regarding the Tibet Mountaineering Summer Camp, which provides comprehensive student safety, Zhang Mohan believes it does not significantly promote the development of mountaineering as a sport. Organized, package-style climbing experiences don’t require high technical proficiency—even if participants know how to operate equipment, without independent judgment or understanding of the snowy environment, they can’t truly grasp what “mountaineering” means. “Opportunities to climb snowy peaks are getting closer to the public, but the knowledge and culture surrounding it are not increasing.”
Zhang Mingxing, secretary-general of the Tibet Autonomous Region Mountaineering Association, also mentioned the issue of climbing techniques in an interview with China Youth Daily: “During the summer camp, some students asked whether they could learn key techniques like route setting and rope teams. Our stance is that under safe conditions, we can let them try and learn, but only under the guidance of professional coaches. We will pay more attention to this kind of training in the future.”