In outdoor circles, skiing is called "white opium" because most people get hooked after just a few runs. Ice climbing, on the other hand, is dubbed "ice meth"—you get addicted after just one try.
Ice climbing evolved from rock climbing, but there are some differences between the two. Since rocks used in rock climbing are more stable than ice, ice climbing carries higher risks, and it is also seasonal. Although the ice climbing season runs from December to February of the following year, the best time is late January. Ice climbing relies not on brute strength but on a person’s balance and core strength—it’s more about technique than power. In this sense, skiing and ice climbing share similarities, as the skills required for the two do not conflict.
Everyone feels particularly nervous during their first ice climbing experience. The connection between the gear and the ice wall is never as reliable as in rock climbing, making you feel less secure and worried that you might fall off if you’re not careful. When holding the ice axe, you tend to grip with all your might, fearing that the pick isn’t set firmly enough. Blindly exerting force often leads to exhaustion after just a few meters, forcing you to climb down and rest. Yet the feeling of swinging the ice axe, with ice crystals flying and making your way upward step by step, is loved by many. Zi Di Yi Yang, a goddess in the ice climbing community, suggests that beginners should go with professional organizations or guides and never attempt it alone without guidance.
This is because ice climbing is a highly technical sport that also demands a lot mentally. Regular ice climbing will make you more focused and cautious in everyday tasks. As you climb more, your strength, endurance, coordination, agility, judgment, and decision-making abilities will all improve significantly. This is the unique charm of this niche sport.
She is Deng Lin, online ID: Zi Di Yi Yang. Five years ago, she resolutely left Beijing to live in Chengdu, simply because it has an ice climbing base—and because she loves the mountains of Sichuan. From being an outdoor industry professional to becoming a mountaineering athlete, and from initially enjoying rock and ice climbing to professionally mountaineering and skiing, she has faced life-and-death situations along the way. But her longing for distant mountains and her persistence in her outdoor dreams have witnessed her inner growth. For a phone interview with HowToTrip, the editor spoke with Zi Di, the national women’s ice climbing champion. Her gentle voice revealed a beautiful woman with a strong and loyal spirit. Zi Di told the editor that she has been practicing with several students on the ice walls in Siguniangshan’s Shuangqiaogou these past few days. When things get less busy, she also plans to go on a 7,000-meter high-altitude ski trip. What an enviable life—doing what you love and turning it into a career, and the best part is, she’s succeeded at it.
Indeed, ice climbing, once seen as an extreme sport only for professional athletes, has become much more accessible in recent years due to the development of numerous icefalls and ice walls, as well as continuous improvements in ice climbing equipment. It has now become one of the latest trendy winter sports beloved by many outdoor enthusiasts. With its unique and cool gear, fairy-tale-like environment, and thrilling physical and mental experience, ice climbing has become the ballet on icefalls.
Ice Climbing Tips:
Crampons and Boots: You’ll need a pair of rigid crampons with either a single frontpoint or dual frontpoints. For low-angle water ice or mid-grade alpine ice routes, the flat-foot French technique works well. When using the frontpoint technique, choose the best footholds—such as holes made by your ice axe, flat or concave ice surfaces, or small ice edges. A precise and forceful kick or two will set the frontpoints securely. Single frontpoint crampons create a stable three-point support, while dual frontpoints provide four-point stability. When climbing thin ice or rock, place the frontpoints on rock edges or in cracks to keep your feet stable and avoid slipping.
Ice Axe: It’s the ice climber’s ultimate weapon. A curved shaft works better than a straight one on convex ice and helps prevent your knuckles from hitting the ice. A straight shaft is better for alpine environments because it can be more easily plunged into hard snow when setting up boot-axe belays.
Wrist Loops: These are also important. Good wrist loops should be easy to put on and take off with one hand, and they should securely fasten around your wrist to reduce fatigue in your forearms. Adjust your body position and try to use your feet to support your weight as much as possible to conserve upper-body strength.
Helmet: Always wear one to protect your head from falling ice.
Rope: Double (here referring to double rope or half rope) dry ropes are more suitable for ice climbing.