The capital of New Zealand, Wellington, along with Nelson and the Marlborough region, are geographically at the heart of the country and also the essence of New Zealand’s culture, arts, food, and wine, hence known as the “Heart of the Long White Cloud.” Tourism New Zealand invited writer, food expert, and founder of Yueshi China, Shu Qiao, to the “Heart of the Long White Cloud,” where she explored the gifts of nature in Marlborough and witnessed the wonderful cycle between food and nature; in Wellington, she followed the rhythm of the city and felt the perfect interaction between food, people, and the urban landscape.
Marlborough: Nature’s Gifts, a Wonderful Cycle
In Marlborough, every element of nature—water, sunlight, and land—not only forms the region’s magnificent scenery but also provides an abundance of ingredients. The people of New Zealand understand how to live in harmony with nature, tapping into the infinite possibilities of local produce while expressing gratitude and coexisting peacefully with the environment.
Taking a cruise on the Tarquin luxury yacht (Tarquin Luxury Cruises) through the Marlborough Sounds is one of the most perfect ways to immerse yourself in these waters, whether you’re resting by the porthole or gazing out from the deck. Ben Godsiff, Operations Manager of Marlborough Tourism, had already prepared fresh green-lipped mussels for Shu Qiao. With just a simple preparation and a squeeze of lemon, you can enjoy their plump, juicy natural flavor. There’s a local saying that after eating, the mussel shells are thrown back into the sea to continue nourishing the place that gave them life. Taken from the sea, returned to the sea—the virtuous cycle between food and ecology has begun.
In the crystal-clear blue waters of the Marlborough Sounds, schools of king salmon also thrive. As the Tarquin yacht sails on, it takes Shu Qiao to the New Zealand King Salmon Farm. The deep waters of the Marlborough Sounds are pristine and consistently cool, with salinity levels that fluctuate with the tides, resulting in king salmon that not only have a fuller body than regular salmon but also boast a stunningly bright silver skin, vivid orange marbled flesh, and a tender texture that melts perfectly on the tongue.
The Ira King Salmon is the top-grade variety of king salmon and a staple ingredient in Michelin-starred restaurants. Mark Preece, General Manager of the New Zealand King Salmon Farm, caught a fresh Ira King Salmon for Shu Qiao. When sliced open, the fish reveals an enticing sheen from the perfect balance of flesh and fat. With minimal seasoning, the taste of the sea bursts in your mouth—the briny saltiness, the subtle sweetness of minerals, and the creamy richness of the soft fish oil slowly climbing the taste buds, making this bite feel like an orchestral symphony from an underwater kingdom. Mark, who is also an ocean scientist, told Shu Qiao that they use sustainable, scientific farming methods, ensuring not only the healthy growth of the king salmon but also the maintenance of the marine ecosystem.
In Marlborough, wine is another key hallmark. Shu Qiao hopped aboard a vintage convertible with Highlight Wine Tours, the air fragrant with intoxicating grape aromas, and vineyard rows stretching into the distance as the scenic journey through wineries commenced.
Brancott Estate is one of the oldest wineries in Marlborough. In 1975, it planted the first Sauvignon Blanc vines here, thus ushering in a new chapter for New Zealand wine. Brancott Estate’s Chief Winemaker, Patrick Materman, with over 20 years of winemaking experience, took Shu Qiao through the vineyards, picking a few grapes for her to taste. “Our estate produces a unique Sauvignon Gris grape. The wine made from it offers botanical notes reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc, yet delivers the delightful spiciness of Pinot Gris when tasted.” As they chatted, Shu Qiao and Patrick arrived at the Brancott Estate tasting room. Pouring a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, gently swirling it, one could sense the aroma blending grass and fruit. A sip revealed currants accompanied by intense tropical fruit notes bursting on the palate.
The brilliant midsummer afternoon sun in Marlborough shone down on the nearby vine trellises, with each grape eagerly absorbing the nutrients of nature, waiting for the moment of harvest to condense Marlborough’s sunshine into every drop of wine. As Patrick said, “If you treat the land well, the land will give you generous returns.”
As dusk fell, Shu Qiao’s vintage convertible arrived at The Marlborough Lodge, a boutique resort. Along the gently winding path leading to the main house, sunlight filtered through towering trees on both sides, accompanied by the continuous chirping of birds. The main house of The Marlborough Lodge is a Victorian building originally constructed in 1901. Renovated in 2016, it reopened as a boutique hotel, debuting with a low-key yet exquisitely elegant style. The resort’s 10 suites are graceful, luxurious, fresh, modern, with soft color palettes and distinctive details.
However, what fascinated Shu Qiao the most was the astonishingly beautiful courtyard within The Marlborough Lodge. Chef Jason Brown and Shu Qiao strolled through it, passing lavender fields to discover a vast and tranquil lake, with overhanging tree branches adding a touch of serenity to the view. Occasionally, small animals appearing on the nearby lawns added the most delightful wild charm to the scenery. The most special feature of the courtyard is Chef Jason’s secret ingredient garden, planted with various herbs, flowers, and edibles. Jason told Shu Qiao that dinner would hold even more surprises for her.
As night fell and the restaurant lights came on, dinner was ready. Nearly every dish on the table reflected elements from the secret garden—the various herbs provided aroma, enhanced flavor, and added decorative touches, all infused with the chef’s creativity and thoughtfulness, resulting in an elegant and delightful experience. Ingredients picked directly from the estate were carefully prepared, and the fruits from the garden were transformed into juices. “Natural and fresh” is the highest praise for every bite of cuisine here. Each mouthful evokes the aftertaste of global gastronomy.
Only at this moment did Shu Qiao realize that Chef Jason had organically integrated a complete food chain into his dishes—from plant roots and leaves to flowers, and from animal feed to meat and skin. Cooking in harmony with nature brings a uniquely delicious flavor. From land to table, it is also a wonderful cycle.
In Marlborough, nature generously provides everything the people of New Zealand need, and in return, New Zealanders have achieved a virtuous cycle between food and ecology, truly embodying dining in harmony with heaven and earth.
Wellington: The Rhythm of the City, a Perfect Interaction
Every city has its own unique rhythm, and New Zealand’s capital, Wellington, has crafted the nation’s distinct character through its unique food culture. Wellington is the city with the most diverse dining options per capita. Here, food is not just sustenance—it has long permeated the soul of the city, influencing every detail of people’s lives.
Selecting ingredients is the first consideration for New Zealanders when it comes to food. Moore Wilson’s, a family-run supermarket operating since 1918, upholds the philosophy of “providing Wellingtonians with the freshest ingredients every day,” offering the freshest seasonal produce and tracing the origins of every item. The shelves are packed with an overwhelming array of fresh ingredients. Sales manager Amanda Thompson picked up a vibrant green cabbage and said, “Our ingredients come from designated farmers. This cabbage is from Woodhaven.” She pointed to a large photo on the wall. “This is our supplier, John Clarke.”
In the eyes of New Zealanders, the essence of food is “following nature,” which is why organic food is highly regarded, and seasonal produce evokes a feeling of being “one with nature.” “Organic” is not just a label for food—it’s a lifestyle for every New Zealander.
Of course, ingredient selection isn’t limited to Moore Wilson’s. Every corner of Wellington offers Shu Qiao different culinary surprises. Not far from the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, the Wellington Harbourside Market opens promptly every weekend morning. Friendly fishermen recommend freshly caught seafood, and hospitable vendors encourage guests to sample their delicacies. Colorful fresh produce adds a vibrant splash of color to the market, while steaming freshly baked bread and aromatic coffee fill the air with a sense of happiness. Traditional Māori foods, Spanish paella, and even Shanghai pork and cabbage dumplings can be found here. Cuisines from around the world blend together, and people from all walks of life find ways to connect through food. Here, food has become the perfect vessel for cultural coexistence.
Around the next corner, Hannah’s Laneway offers a variety of creatively unique eateries. In this small food district developed from a former shoe factory, nearly every shop is interconnected. Stepping into Golding’s Free Dive craft beer bar, Shu Qiao met Beth Brash, who had been waiting for her. Beth is a Wellington foodie celebrity and the well-known “Beer Queen” around town. Golding’s Free Dive not only serves craft beers from various breweries, but customers can also order pizza from the neighboring Pizza Pomodoro. They even sell Fix and Fogg peanut butter, Six Barrel Soda Co. sodas, and chocolates from the Wellington Chocolate Factory. The boundaries between shops seem almost intentionally blurred in Hannah’s Laneway—food gives this neighborhood an extraordinary magic of integration.
The rhythm of the city infuses food with unique vitality. Food not only changes the daily lives of urban dwellers but also shapes the distinct life of the city. The three interact in perfect harmony.
The Heart of the Long White Cloud: A Harmonious Relationship Between People and Food
Whether in the picturesque Marlborough or the uniquely styled Wellington, the harmonious relationship between people and food remains unchanged. Recalling the most unforgettable moments of the journey, one must mention the encounter with culinary mogul Al Brown at Lochmara Lodge. Known across New Zealand, this celebrity chef runs multiple restaurants, hosts TV shows, and is also a renowned food writer.
To reach Lochmara Lodge, one takes a 15-minute water taxi from Picton. From the boat, you can see the lush trees on the island in the distance, with the resort nestled among dense foliage, barely visible. Upon disembarking, Shu Qiao was drawn to the fearless little animals. New Zealand parakeets (Kakariki) fluttered their wings and chirped cheerfully. The resort is connected to a private stretch of sea, where keepers feed the fish at scheduled times and amounts. Whenever feed is scattered into the water, schools of stingrays gather, creating quite a lively scene.
On this island paradise, people can get as close to nature as possible, conversing with the landscape and interacting with animals. All of this inspired the two food masters, Shu Qiao and Al Brown, to exchange culinary skills in the open-air kitchen amidst the mountains and sea. They chose fresh New Zealand lobster and blacklip abalone as the main ingredients. Al Brown adheres to Western cooking principles, using primitive and natural methods to preserve the original flavors of the ingredients. Shu Qiao, on the other hand, employed Chinese cooking techniques, showcasing the bold, oily, and soy-saucy characteristics of Shanghainese cuisine to the fullest. Their contrasting cooking styles collided, creating uniquely flavorful culinary experiences.
As Al Brown said, “Food, as a medium, can create beautiful moments. When the right people and place come together, the food experience becomes even more delightful. In New Zealand, you’re sure to encounter the most beautiful scenery and taste locally sourced fresh food. For me, that’s the perfect New Zealand experience.”
Nature has bestowed New Zealand with majestic mountains and rivers, as well as an endless supply of delicious ingredients. New Zealanders have used food as a medium to shape the country’s unique character. Following in Shu Qiao’s footsteps, embark on a journey to discover the “Heart of the Long White Cloud,” encountering the purity of nature, awakening your taste buds, meeting hospitable locals, and hearing the stories behind the food.
Travel destination background information:
Wellington
Known as the "coolest little capital in the world," Wellington is renowned for its arts and culture. Though compact, the city center is packed with diverse attractions and activities. Boasting more bars and restaurants per capita than New York, Wellington is famed for its excellent taste—step out and immerse yourself in the city’s culinary delights.
Moore Wilson's Family MarketTrue to its concept of high-quality fresh food ingredients, Moore Wilson's selects locally sourced produce, offering both locals and visitors delightful surprises in every aisle.
Details: https://moorewilsons.co.nz/
Wellington Harbourside MarketThe oldest and liveliest market in Wellington, it features fresh seafood and a variety of tempting snacks. Held every Sunday morning next to the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa.
Details: http://www.harboursidemarket.co.nz/
Hannah's LanewayLocated in downtown Wellington, it has become a trendy landmark. With artistic street graffiti and unique specialty shops, this alley offers creative cuisine and a taste of New Zealand’s close-knit community.
Details: https://www.wellingtonnz.com/discover/things-to-do/eat-and-drink/could-this-be-the-worlds-tastiest-laneway/
Wellington Chocolate FactorySituated in Hannah's Laneway, the factory sells creatively crafted chocolates with a range of flavor combinations that not only let visitors enjoy chocolate at its finest but also open the door to a new chocolate experience.
Details: http://www.wcf.co.nz/
Marlborough
New Zealand’s largest grape-growing and winemaking region, Marlborough produces world-class Sauvignon Blanc. The stunning Marlborough Sounds offer an unbeatable natural escape. Whether you’re taking a vintage car wine tour or going boating, the abundant sunshine and pleasant weather make it a year-round destination to explore Marlborough’s diverse beauty.
Tarquin Luxury CruisesOffers tailor-made sailing itineraries, from short scenic cruises around the Marlborough Sounds to multi-night adventures for deeper nature exploration.
Details: http://www.tarquincruises.co.nz/
New Zealand King Salmon FarmHome to seven farming sites in the Marlborough Sounds, it raises premium Ira King Salmon. For a taste of Ira King Salmon, head to Arbour Restaurant, named the 2017 Best Restaurant in Marlborough—you won’t be disappointed.
Details: https://www.arbour.co.nz/
Highlight Wine ToursOffers wine lovers a fresh tasting journey. Tailored to individual preferences, this experience includes a ride through Marlborough’s vineyards in a retro 1960s convertible, soaking in the beauty of the wine region.
Details: https://www.highlightwinetours.co.nz/
Brancott EstateOne of the oldest wineries in Marlborough, Brancott Estate is located in Blenheim and just an hour’s flight from Auckland. Famous for its Sauvignon Blanc, it attracts wine enthusiasts from around the globe.
Details: http://www.brancottestate.com/
The Marlborough LodgeNestled in the heart of Marlborough’s wine region, this 16-hectare property features 10 modern suites and a luxurious private restaurant. It boasts lush green spaces, a cozy bar, and a fine dining restaurant.
Details: http://www.themarlboroughlodge.co.nz/
Lochmara LodgeIt offers not only day trip options but also multi-day stays for a relaxing nature getaway. It can be reached in about 15 minutes by water taxi from Picton, the main town in the Marlborough Sounds.
Details can be found at: http://www.lochmara.co.nz/