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“Old Towns Are Full of Stories” — A Travelogue of Chengde

Published: 2026-11-08 👁 101 views
Last updated 2026-11-08 — Lose yourself in the embrace of nature, listen to birdsong in the woods, and breathe in the fragrance of blooming flowers. Pack your bags and set off to explore Chengde, a historic city known as the “Pearl Beyond the Great Wall” that witnessed the glory of the Qing Dynasty.

I love traveling. Not only does it help me unwind from the stress of everyday work and release built-up pressure, but it also offers a deep sense of freedom and relaxation that nourishes the soul. Losing myself in the embrace of nature, listening to birdsong in the woods, and breathing in the fragrance of blooming flowers—these are exactly the reasons why, during the three-day Dragon Boat Festival holiday, I chose to pack my bags and explore Chengde, a historic city known as the “Pearl Beyond the Great Wall” that witnessed the glory of the Qing Dynasty.

Perhaps too eager to get going, I rushed to Beijing’s Liuliqiao Coach Terminal right after work with my luggage. Buses to Chengde can be boarded either at Sihui or Liuliqiao Coach Terminals. The ticket costs 85 yuan, and the journey takes about three hours. By the time I arrived in Chengde, it was already dark. Fortunately, I had booked a room online in advance at a Home Inn near the Mountain Resort (a business king room for 258 yuan), and after notifying the hotel, I took a taxi for 22 yuan (flag-down price 7 yuan, including 1 yuan fuel surcharge) to get there. I checked in smoothly that evening.

Main Attractions Itinerary:

May 28: Mountain Resort — “The Grand Ceremony of Emperor Kangxi” Performance

May 29: Putuo Zongcheng Temple — Qingchuifeng Peak

May 30: Puning Temple — Return to Beijing

May 28, the first day of the Dragon Boat Festival holiday. The quiet old town that was peaceful the night before was now bustling with noise and excitement, full of traffic. To avoid the tourist crowds, I arrived at the first stop on my itinerary by 8:00 a.m.: the Mountain Resort.

Address: Lizhengmen Street, Chengde City

Ticket Price: 145 yuan (peak season)   90 yuan (off-season)   Half-price for students

Opening Hours: 8:00–17:30

Bus: Routes 6, 7, 10, 26, 118; get off at Mountain Resort Stop

From afar, you can see the majestic palace gate. The Mountain Resort is the most iconic attraction in Chengde. Locals often refer to it as the “Summer Palace.” Built in 1703, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a national 5A-level scenic spot. During the reigns of Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, they spent about half the year in Chengde, and many significant political, military, ethnic, and diplomatic affairs were handled here. Thus, the Mountain Resort became the secondary capital and the second political center outside of Beijing.

The resort is mainly divided into several sections: the palace area, lake area, mountain area, and plain area, with pavilions and gardens interwoven among the landscape. Right at the entrance is the palace area, which resembles the Forbidden City. It also includes a “Mountain Resort Museum” that showcases the daily life of emperors during their stays at the resort.

Beyond the palace area lies the lake area. With rippling blue waters stretching to the horizon, the lake features wooden bridges and stone paths crisscrossing above the water, as well as large dragon boats that offer rides powered by human paddling, along with many family-friendly recreational facilities.

Here, I must mention the “Yanyu Tower.” It was the filming location for the “Shufangzhai” in the TV series “Princess Huanzhu,” and seeing it instantly brings to mind scenes of Xiao Yanzi teaching Jin Suo how to wield the nine-section whip. The lake area pretty much ends around Yanyu Tower, and for the mountainous section beyond, you can take a sightseeing vehicle. Ticket: 50 yuan per person.

The mountain area mainly consists of three scenic spots: Simian Yunshan (Cloudy Mountains on All Sides), Ermadao (Second Horse Path), and Qingfeng Lüyu (Green Maple and Emerald Isle). From Simian Yunshan, you can overlook the entire Chengde urban area, as well as view Qingchuifeng Peak, the foremost of China’s ten famous peaks, and the Toad Stone.

At Ermadao, you can give yourself the chance to feel as if you’ve arrived in Lhasa—this is the Putuo Zongcheng Temple in Chengde, also known as the “Little Potala Palace.” Qingfeng Lüyu is said to be where Emperor Kangxi enjoyed the maple leaves and sunset, though some say it was also a cold palace. You cannot change vehicles midway; each spot has about 10 minutes allocated for photos, so the whole trip takes roughly an hour.

Friendly reminder: if you don’t hire a guide for the Mountain Resort, you can eavesdrop on other guides’ commentary. It’s a great way to learn more and discover the highlights of the resort. Some of the best spots are a bit off the beaten path, and having tips from others helps ensure you don’t miss them.

In this world, nothing should be taken for granted—not the beauty of scenery, nor the delight of food. After several hours exploring the resort, a hearty meal is essential to recharge. I recommend “Bate Lamb Spine Hotpot” right across from the resort. Dining is underground, with yurts and private rooms. Though the atmosphere is a bit dim, the taste is excellent. Two people spent just 136 yuan, making it great value for money near the scenic area. There are also the famed “Daqinghua” restaurants in Chengde, which travelers might want to try.

Second Stop: “The Grand Ceremony of Emperor Kangxi” Performance

Address: Ding Sheng Royal Theatre, Yuanbao Mountain Scenic Area, Shuangluan District, Chengde

Ticket Prices: Zone A – 288 yuan, Zone B – 258 yuan, Zone C – 198 yuan; VIP prices vary, please call for details

Opening Hours: Gates open for check-in at 19:00, show starts at 20:00

Transportation: Take bus routes 5 or 15 and get off at Yuanbao Mountain Stop; by taxi from downtown, it costs about 30 yuan and takes 15 minutes.

This was the most memorable and rewarding experience of my trip. Perhaps only after watching this performance can you truly grasp what “breathtaking” means.

“The Grand Ceremony of Emperor Kangxi” is the world’s first and China’s only large-scale nighttime live-action performance with a royal culture theme. The show integrates the landscape of Yuanbao Mountain—one of Chengde’s famous peaks—with the historical and cultural legacy of the prosperous Kangxi and Qianlong eras, showcasing the grandeur and humanistic spirit of the Qing Dynasty under Emperor Kangxi. Directed by Mei Shuaiyuan, the founder of China’s live-action performance scene, and with advisors such as Yu Dan and Ji Lianhai, the creative team alone is enough to draw attention.

Upon entering the venue, you’ll see a vast parking lot filled with vehicles from all over the country. The bustling crowd made me even more excited for the show. Further in, you’ll find the ticket checkpoint, where staff dressed in Qing Dynasty costumes add a unique touch. Tickets can be collected conveniently via self-service machines using QR codes.

After entering, the service facilities inside are comprehensive, with various snacks, drinks, and rest areas. The theater is an open-air platform backed by Yuanbao Mountain, reportedly seating 20,003 people. The viewing experience is quite comfortable. Staff kindly remind you that since the mountain area is a bit chilly, you may choose to rent a coat. Coats cost 10 yuan each, with a 100 yuan deposit refunded upon return.

Once the performance begins, about a hundred warhorses charge out in the scene of Emperor Kangxi’s Mulan hunting expedition, creating a majestic and truly spectacular atmosphere. The dazzling stage lighting, grand scale of the production, and meticulously arranged storyline unfold with rhythm and layers. The shifting perspectives of near and far, high and low, landscapes and waterscapes are cleverly and appropriately interwoven throughout the show.

"Prologue: The Hunting"

"Act I: Heaven’s Question"

"Act II: Heavenly Harmony"

Here’s a mention of a highlight in the performance. The “glasses-free 3D” effect in "Act III: Mandate of Heaven" left the audience astonished. As the entire theater transformed from twinkling lights into a starry cosmos, spectators expressed their awe with various exclamations at the visually stunning experience. The glow from mobile phone screens blended seamlessly with the theater’s background lighting, instantly immersing the audience in the universe, giving the venue an even more breathtaking sense of depth and beauty.


"Act III: Mandate of Heaven"

"Act IV: The Empire"

"Epilogue: Manchu-Han Imperial Feast" concludes this 70-minute performance in a playful yet meaningful way. All cast and crew members of "The Kangxi Ceremony" take their final bows to the tune of the theme song "The Empire."

With mountains as the curtain and valleys as the stage, "The Kangxi Ceremony" has quite the momentum: it boasts both grandeur and delicate detail; it features scenes of clashing armies and burning camps, as well as serene water towns with small bridges and lotus ponds; it includes philosophical questions under a sky of stars, and humorous depictions of preparing a Manchu-Han feast. After watching many indoor and outdoor performances, both domestic and international, audiences often suffer from aesthetic fatigue—especially tired of the cliché opening of mass drumbeating and shouts. "The Kangxi Ceremony," however, embodies harmony between heaven and humanity, crafted with exquisite detail, and truly offers many amazing moments. These 70 minutes feel like a journey through time, allowing one to experience Emperor Kangxi’s 61-year reign and witness the rise and prosperity of a magnificent dynasty, leaving a truly memorable impression. After the show, taxis are available at the entrance to return to the city center, and if you choose to carpool, it costs just 15 yuan to get to your hotel.


May 29 — Third Stop in Chengde: Puning Temple (Putuo Zongcheng Temple)

Address: North side of Shizigou, Shuangqiao District, Chengde City

Ticket Price: 80 yuan

Opening Hours: Peak season 8:00–18:00   Off-season 8:30–17:00

Transportation: Accessible via Bus No. 6

If you don’t have the chance to visit Lhasa to see the grandeur of the Potala Palace with your own eyes, you can come to Chengde’s Putuo Zongcheng Temple to experience the religious ambiance of Tibet.

Also known as the "Little Potala Palace," Putuo Zongcheng Temple is the largest of the Eight Outer Temples in Chengde. Built in the 36th year of the Qianlong reign (1771), it was constructed to celebrate the 60th birthday of Emperor Qianlong and the 80th birthday of his mother, the Empress Dowager. The temple follows the natural terrain, featuring a flexible and varied layout, and is predominantly designed in the architectural style of Tibetan Buddhism.

The temple complex consists of about 60 structures of varying sizes, with halls and pavilions scattered across the mountain slope and facing the water. The layout skillfully utilizes the terrain and surrounding scenery to create a flexible yet solemn and majestic atmosphere. The main structure, the Great Red Platform, stands 43 meters tall. At its center is the Hall of Universal Light, the principal hall, whose roof rises above the surrounding buildings. The rooftop is covered with gilded fish-scale copper tiles, gleaming brilliantly and exuding extraordinary magnificence. The lower part, enclosed by three tiers of auxiliary halls, creates strong contrasts between light and shadow, producing a deeply religious and solemn atmosphere. It is considered a masterpiece of religious architecture.

Strolling across the five-arch stone bridge and entering the Tibetan-style mountain gate leads you to the stele pavilion topped with yellow glazed tiles. Inside the pavilion stand three stone stelae, inscribed in Chinese, Manchu, Mongolian, and Tibetan, respectively recording the "Stele Inscription of Putuo Zongcheng Temple," "The Record of the Entire Torghut Tribe’s Submission," and "The Record of the Compassionate Treatment of the Torghut People." Behind the pavilion is the Five-Tower Gate, whose walls are entirely white and feature three tiers of Tibetan-style blind windows. Below are three arched gates, and atop the gate sit five lama towers. A pair of large stone elephants flank the entrance, symbolizing good fortune and the boundless power of Mahayana Buddhism.

Chengde’s Fourth Stop: Qingchui Peak National Forest Park

Address: East side of the Chengde Mountain Resort

Ticket Price: 50 yuan

Opening Hours: 8:30–16:30

Transportation: Take Bus No. 10 to Lama Temple Station and walk from there

This peculiar mountain features a towering, needle-like rock pillar that thrusts straight into the sky, resembling a washing baton, which earned it the name “Qingchui Peak” (Bell Hammer Peak) bestowed by Emperor Kangxi, and it is commonly known as “Bàngchuí Mountain.” It is one of Chengde’s top ten famous mountains and belongs to a unique Danxia landform, historically called “Stone Spire,” estimated to be around 3 million years old.

Tip for hikers: You can take the cable car up Qingchui Peak, with a round-trip fare of 80 yuan per person or 50 yuan one way. Alternatively, you can hike up on foot. The Qingchui Peak cable car is currently the longest chairlift in China, stretching 1,620 meters. About 200 meters north of the peak lies Baoshan Temple, known as the “Giant Cliff Buddha Light.” The cliff carvings inside the temple are truly exceptional.

You can also walk about 500 meters south to see the highly realistic Toad Stone. On the cliffs approximately 500 meters south of Qingchui Peak, a massive rock resembles a squatting toad when viewed from afar—this is the Toad Stone. The stone toad faces south with its head poking over the cliff edge, its mouth slightly open, creating an adorable sight. The toad-shaped rock is about 14 meters tall and 20 meters long, with two hollow cavities beneath its belly that connect from north to south and run east to west, allowing people to crawl through. In the height of summer, the caves offer a refreshingly cool breeze.

Tip: There are only a few small fruit and vegetable stalls on Qingchui Peak, so it’s not very convenient to buy other items. It’s best to bring your own drinking water and snacks before climbing.

May 30 — Final Stop in Chengde: Puning Temple

Address: East side of Shangketing Hotel, Puning Temple, Shuangqiao District, Chengde City

Ticket Price: 80 yuan (peak season: April–October)   60 yuan (off-season: November–March)

Transportation: Take bus No. 6 and get off at Puning Temple Station.

Puning Temple, also known as the "Great Buddha Temple," is a Han-Tibetan style temple built during the Qianlong period. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the first batch of 4A-level scenic spots designated by the state. It is now the largest Tibetan Buddhist activity center in northern China. Its unique blend of Han and Tibetan architectural styles stands out, and the temple enjoys a thriving flow of incense. Some even travel from afar to seek divination here.

Although not very large in scale, once you step into Puning Temple, you can immediately sense the profound essence of Tibetan Buddhism.

The main statue of Puning Temple is the Thousand-Handed and Thousand-Eyed Avalokiteshvara, the world’s largest wooden carved Buddha statue. It has been listed in the Guinness World Records and is truly awe-inspiring.

The end of my visit to Puning Temple marks the conclusion of my trip to Chengde, and it’s time to head back to Beijing. Over the three days in Chengde, I experienced the deep cultural heritage of China’s Qing Dynasty: from imperial gardens to sacred Tibetan Buddhist sites; from the Manchu people embracing the unity of all under heaven. Every facet of Chinese culture is vividly displayed in this ancient city. History may pass, but culture endures. To me, Chengde is like a wise elder who has weathered the ages, calmly witnessing the passage of time and quietly telling the world the stories of this ancient city.

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