After several consecutive days of work in a week, I suddenly felt an unbearable fatigue weighing on my heart. No need to worry about taking leave—just gather a few close friends and head somewhere to relax for two days. There’s always more work to do, and sometimes you just have to be kind to yourself.
Po Feng Ling isn’t unfamiliar to me. Last autumn, I stayed in the Cloud Stone House within the Po Feng Ling scenic area, where I saw the mountains covered in red leaves. I was amazed at how beautiful autumn in Beijing could be. It turns out the closer something is, the more we tend to overlook it. I wonder if May will bring any surprises?
This time, I chose to stay at Huang Lu Hua Kai, simply because its name carries a uniquely literary charm. Driving 60 kilometers from Beijing to Huang Lu Hua Kai, I marveled at how wonderful life in this tech-driven era is, thanks to the precise navigation.
The aunt who had been informed of my arrival was already waiting for me under the big tree at the intersection. She welcomed me warmly, like family—not with formal greetings like “Welcome, hello,” but with a simple, “You’re here, must be tired from the trip. Come in and have some water.”
The Courtyard No. 7 at Huang Lu Hua Kai that I chose this time is also highly recommended. The entire courtyard includes a yard, dining room, kitchen (yes, a private kitchen exclusively for our courtyard), a living room that can accommodate over ten people, two bedrooms each furnished with soft daybeds where you can lounge while enjoying tea and fragrances, and the small tables can even be removed to serve as children’s beds. There are bathrooms in both bedrooms, and a swing under the big tree gently sways in the breeze. I fell in love with everything about it.
Here, you won’t find any greasy, heavy dishes often associated with everyday meals. Breakfast only includes congee and side dishes, yet it’s surprisingly delicious. For the first time, I ate three steamed buns and a bowl of congee in the morning...
Instead of the conventional hotel toiletries in plastic bottles, they’ve chosen the imported Australian SUKIN skincare and toiletry line, showcasing quality in every detail.
The colorful world gives us a vibrant life, yet we also strive hard to pursue simplicity and ordinariness. Leaning on the daybed, sipping a cup of fragrant tea or reading a good book—simplicity is perfection.
Check-in at Huang Lu Hua Kai usually begins at 2 PM. The included afternoon tea, made with locally unique ingredients, is part of the room rate, so enjoy it to your heart’s content. The absolute must-try is the wild hawthorn juice, 100% brewed from hawthorns, which is appetizing and thirst-quenching.
After a short rest, I headed up to Po Feng Ling before sunset. The aunt said it’s currently the best season for the Cotinus flowers to bloom, and the homestay’s name reflects exactly that—a local scenic highlight.
Along the way up the mountain, I wondered what Cotinus really is, what it looks like in other seasons, and why I never noticed it during previous autumn visits.
It turns out that Cotinus isn’t yellow but pink, fluffy, and quite adorable. It’s the very red leaf I saw in autumn, but I never recognized it when it took on a different look.
The Cotinus along the mountain path was already breathtaking, but then I saw the Cotinus King at 1700 meters—this title is well-deserved. Standing proudly against the wind, the blooming Cotinus King captured everyone’s gaze, making it hard to leave. The entire Po Feng Ling spans about 6 kilometers, with markers every 100 steps on the stairs. Friends with limited stamina, you must make it here no matter what.
Back down the mountain, the caretaker aunt had already set the table for us. Although dinner was just handmade noodles and stir-fried dishes from the aunt, she still placed fresh roses on the table, and under the candlelight, it felt exceptionally warm. My friends dressed up, sipped their red wine, and chatted about the fun moments in life, the little joys with loved ones, or some juicy gossip. Without phones around, we returned to the simplest and most genuine form of togetherness.
Our life is like a cup of clear tea that needs to be brewed with care—from fetching the water, heating it, washing the tea, brewing, smelling the aroma, to savoring the taste… Each step requires mindful appreciation. Life can be ordinary, but it shouldn’t lose its sparkle. Life can be about daily necessities, but it shouldn’t lose its refinement. Making life exquisite is also a form of enjoyment that brings joy to oneself.
Best time to view Cotinus blooms:
Mid-May to mid-June, with slight variations depending on weather temperatures
Best time to view autumn foliage:
Early red phase: October 8–14
Peak bloom period: October 15–31
Late red phase: November 1–15
Ticket information:
Po Feng Ling ticket prices: 30 RMB/person in the off-season, 50 RMB/person in the peak season
Self-driving directions:
Just use your phone to navigate to “Huang Lu Hua Kai”—it’s very accurate. Po Feng Ling is nearby, just a three-minute drive away.
Public transportation:
Take any bus in Beijing to Zhoukoudian Lukou Station, then transfer to Fang 32 bus to Po Feng Ling Scenic Area. The last bus departs at 6 PM.
Text and photos: Emotional Dan Cells