The Place Where the Heart Is Left Behind – Heidelberg Castle

By Li Xinyi, compiled and reported | Source: MOOK Editorial Department

Heidelberg in Germany has long been a renowned tourist destination, praised for its beauty by both Mark Twain and Goethe. Heidelberg Castle, located within the city, now stands mostly in ruins. The entire fortress was destroyed during wars in the late 17th century by the French, but even so, as you stroll through its grounds today, you can still feel the strong aura of the Middle Ages.

Though it is now in ruins, Heidelberg Castle still has much to admire. The towering city walls, adorned with finely detailed reliefs, make one imagine the castle’s former grandeur; the garden built by the castle lord for his beloved wife still features gracefully arched gateways that captivate visitors even today.

The urban area of Heidelberg, which was completely destroyed during the wars of the 18th century, was later rebuilt to resemble its original appearance, using stones taken from within the castle itself. Later, thanks to the efforts of dedicated individuals, the castle was preserved in its ruined state. This beauty of decay—this sense of enduring resilience despite the relentless passage of time—has given the castle a new kind of vitality.

Take the cable car up to the castle, where you’ll find many attractions scattered across different buildings. These include the Great Tun and the castle gardens. The enormous wooden wine barrel is so large that visitors can climb on top of it for a look. Across from the barrel is the dwarf Perkeo, who was tasked with guarding it, and next to him is a clock said to be his own invention.

In the tranquil castle garden, there is a statue of Goethe, who visited Heidelberg many times and once called it “the place where the heart is left behind.” Not far from the statue is his favorite stone bench, which is carved with heart-shaped leaves. He once wrote a poem for someone he loved using this plant, and the poem is inscribed on the bench, adding a romantic touch to the garden.