A Walk Among Nara’s World Heritage Sites: A New Deer-Feeding Experience at Todai-ji

Nara in Kansai is a serene and leisurely city. Though its beauty may not be as dazzling as Kyoto’s, its tranquil and carefree atmosphere adds an indescribable charm to this ancient capital. Beyond the three major World Heritage temples to the north — Horyu-ji, Yakushi-ji, and Toshodai-ji — the scenic spots to the south of Nara are even more rustic and natural, making it perfect for a short heritage tour to experience Nara’s classical world.

Nara was the capital of Japan over a thousand years ago. From the herds of deer roaming freely in Nara Park and the tolling of temple bells echoing from ancient shrines, you can sense the unique elegance of this millennia-old capital. Legend has it that the deity of Kasuga Taisha rode a white deer to arrive in Nara, which is why deer are considered messengers of the gods. Since ancient times, they have been well protected, allowing them to thrive and populate the park as they do today. The deer in Nara are not shy at all; instead, they treat tourists as automatic feeders. As soon as they see someone holding “deer crackers” (shika senbei), they swarm over, open their mouths wide, and start nibbling at your hands. If you don’t pull your hand back quickly, not only will the crackers be gone, but your fingers might also get nipped by those big yellow teeth.

Nara Park spans a vast area, and must-visit sites within it include Kofuku-ji Temple, famous for its striking five-story pagoda; Todai-ji Temple, home to the world’s largest bronze Great Buddha; and Kasuga Taisha Shrine, lined with stone lanterns. If you get off at Nara Station on the Kintetsu Line, it takes about 10 minutes to reach Nara Park. The first landmark you’ll see is the five-story pagoda of Kofuku-ji. During the Nara and Heian periods, with the support of the powerful Fujiwara clan, Kofuku-ji enjoyed great prestige both religiously and politically. However, its fortunes took a hit during the Meiji Restoration when the government established Shinto as the state religion, triggering widespread anti-Buddhist movements across the country. It wasn’t until later efforts by monks to rebuild that the temple regained its former glory and was designated as a World Heritage Site.

Visiting Nara without going to Todai-ji is like not having visited at all. The Great Buddha at Todai-ji is the largest bronze Buddha statue in the world. On the right rear pillar of the statue, there is a hole as big as the Buddha’s nostril, and it’s said that if you can squeeze through it, you’ll be blessed with good luck — definitely worth a try. After feeding the deer and seeing the Great Buddha, consider strolling through Nara-machi, known as “Nara’s oldest town.” Located in the alleys south of Sarusawa Pond, it features rows of traditional wooden lattice-window buildings from the Edo period. Along the old streets, you’ll also find many quaint-looking yet internally modernized and stylish cafes and teahouses.

In the early seventh century, Japan underwent several capital relocations. The currently restored Heijo-kyo, the former imperial capital before Kyoto’s Heian-kyo, is set to officially reopen in April 2010. It will be connected with major historical sites across the prefecture and will host various grand events throughout the year to commemorate the 1300th anniversary of the relocation of the capital — definitely worth a visit. For details, check the official website of the Heijo-kyo 1300th Anniversary Festival.

Further reading: Kanazawa Old Town (provided by Tripass Attractions)