Head to the hometown of Ah Xin and soak in the cozy Yunoshima Onsen

Japan’s Tohoku Yamagata Prefecture captured the hearts of Taiwanese thanks to the TV drama *Ah Xin*. The silver-rich Yunoshima Onsen, which flourished because of its silver mines, is also a renowned hot spring resort. In the snowy winter months, snow in the Yunoshima Onsen area piles up to depths of 1.5 to 2 meters. The wooden inns lining the streets look tranquil and beautiful under the white blanket, and soaking in the warm springs at this time brings an indescribable sense of happiness.

Few who see Yunoshima Onsen for the first time aren’t struck by its scenery. Three- or four-story wooden buildings, constructed in the early 19th century, stand in a row along the gently flowing Yunoshima River. In this secluded mountain hideaway surrounded by high mountains on all sides, there are no modern houses or utility poles—only dozens of old, time-forgotten inns and gas lamps glowing a soft yellow standing silently. Walking into the hot spring town, you can’t help but feel as if you’ve slipped through time, momentarily left speechless.

This hot spring town, which thrived in the 16th century due to its abundant silver mines, once attracted as many as 25,000 miners during its peak and was ranked as one of Japan’s three major silver mining districts. The old hot spring inns have been carefully maintained by local operators, retaining their simple traditional Japanese style—old-fashioned rooms partitioned by paper doors, unique window views created by the hot spring old street, hospitable female inn staff warmly greeting guests in the lobby and the bustling flow of bathers, along with the faint scent of wood infused with a century of tradition—all these scenes that usually only appear in nostalgic films are fully and warmly presented in Yunoshima Onsen.

The hot spring street of Yunoshima is just a single path, less than 200 meters long, with inns mostly built adjacent to one another, and relatively few shops. Since the buildings themselves are a unique sight, in fact, looking out from the wooden windows or corridors of each inn, what you see is the inn across the street. To preserve the integrity of the street’s scenery, locals have placed all original utility poles underground and paved the road with stone slabs. A few years ago, a “Wa Rakku Footbath” was set up at the entrance of the hot spring street, adding to its leisurely atmosphere.

A short distance from the hot spring street lies the Yunoshima-so, the largest inn in the hot spring area. Its proudest feature is the spacious open-air bath not found in other inns. The hot spring pool faces towering cedar forests and a wide valley. Lying in the bath while admiring the majestic landscape is truly an ultimate pleasure.

Senkyo no Yado Yunoshima-so
Transportation: Take the bus bound for Yunoshima Onsen and get off at the terminal stop “Yunoshima Onsen.”
Phone: (0237)28-2322
Website: http://www.ginzanso.jp/
Price: From ¥16,000 per night including two meals

Further reading: The snow-covered Zao Onsen Area (provided by Tripass Attractions)