A Centennial Journey in Nagano Prefecture: Exploring the Towns of Tsumago and Magome

Travel to Japan’s old towns is increasingly popular among visitors. Beyond appreciating history and culture, strolling through streets full of stories offers a unique Japanese charm. Nestled in the quiet Yamaguchi Village in southwestern Nagano Prefecture, it has become a popular tourist destination thanks to the two 400-year-old preserved settlements — “Tsumago” and “Magome” — with their distinctive post town culture that seems to transport you back to the Edo period.

The settlements of Tsumago and Magome, made up of many small inns, were established as “post stations” managed by the central government since the Edo period 400 years ago. Literally, these were stops specifically meant to provide accommodation. Along the 540-kilometer mountain path, they served as rest spots for weary travelers. To prioritize functionality for shops and inns, the village structure differs from typical towns — houses line the stone-paved ancient road, with their entrances facing the street to facilitate business and attract guests. Most houses lack front gardens, and if they have one, it’s usually at the back. Such settlements are commonly referred to as “post town settlements” or “shukuba-machi.”

Over time, through local residents’ urban and rural revitalization efforts, traditional architecture has been preserved. Shops, restaurants, and teahouses line both sides of the road, where owners warmly greet guests in local accents. Step inside, and you’ll find many unique mountain village crafts: geta (wooden clogs), hinoki (cypress) bento boxes, woven baskets and accessories, straw hats, and more — all beloved local specialties. The restaurants and teahouses often feature traditional layouts, some even with sunken hearths for warming by the fire. Among the delicacies, the most famous include hinoki leaf rice balls, chestnut mixed grain rice, yakigakiyaki (grilled garae-take mochi), grilled river fish over charcoal, and yam soba noodles — all must-try mountain flavors.

Today, some traditional Ryokan-style lodgings called “hatago” still operate in Tsumago and Magome. If you have time, it's recommended to spend a night in either town to experience the nostalgia of Edo-period travelers and to immerse yourself in the daily rhythm of a post town from morning to night. These hatago typically use electric fans and kerosene heaters, and the meals are hearty and homely, often the same dishes served to the owner’s family. In terms of cost, staying overnight with two meals is generally cheaper than regular hotels. Though modest, they exude the essence of traditional Japanese everyday life.

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