Discover the Joy of Tohoku’s Hot Springs and Local Cuisine

As the end of February approaches, many parts of Japan are on the verge of early spring. However, the mountainous regions of Hokuriku, the prefectures of Tohoku, and Hokkaido are still blanketed in a world of silver white. Open-air hot springs in the snow, steaming mountain vegetable dishes, and the hearty warmth of the rural folk can all be unexpectedly savored in the mountain towns of Tohoku—offering a deeply human and heartwarming sense of joy.

Traveling through Japan’s mountain villages and countryside, what often leaves the deepest impression isn’t the grand, breathtaking landscapes or ancient historical sites that span centuries, but rather the warm bowl handed to you by an elderly lady by the roadside. Laden with rich mountain vegetables and wild flavors, it overflows with the kindness and bold spirit of rural folk. Paired with a steaming open-air bath, listening to the wind sing through the trees and watching the fine snowflakes drift onto your hair—this, perhaps, is what true happiness tastes like. To experience this feeling, head to the Tohoku region and search along the way for hot springs and local cuisine.

Yamagata Prefecture’s Ginzan Onsen is a romantically quaint hot spring town with a history of 400 years. With a long yet narrow street lined with over ten hot spring ryokans, its wooden buildings retain an old-world charm. A few small bridges cross over, accented by soft lights, as time seems to slow down here. Guests wrapped in yukata and wearing geta stroll the streets in small groups. The “open-air bed bath” in the hot spring town offers a bathing experience where you feel one with the surrounding landscape. The milky-white waters are said to be effective for skin diseases, neuralgia, women’s health issues, and also have beautifying effects.

The Mogami River boat ride in Yamagata Prefecture was once the most vital mode of transport for inland residents, but today it has become one of the area’s most popular tourist experiences. Board a boat to cruise along one of Japan’s three great rapid rivers—the Mogami River—and imagine the scenes of boatmen fearlessly navigating the icy waters day and night to carry passengers back and forth. During the one-hour journey, the canyon terrain shifts from narrow and perilous to calm and flowing, with steep cliffs and splashing waterfalls on both sides. Coupled with the ever-changing colors of the four seasons, it feels like sailing through a series of living landscape postcards.

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