Ultimate Fun in Western Japan (Part 2): A Short Trip to Dogo Onsen

Do you still remember the bathhouse where mythical creatures rested and soaked in Studio Ghibli’s animated film *Spirited Away*? This bathhouse that drove fans wild is none other than the main building of Dogo Onsen.

Located in Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, Dogo Onsen is world-renowned. It is said to have been in operation for 3,000 years, earning the title of Japan’s oldest hot spring. Legend has it that in ancient times, an injured white heron would fly to Dogo Onsen every day to soak, and its wounds healed quickly, demonstrating mysterious restorative powers. This attracted many members of the imperial family and historical figures to visit, seeking divine protection and freedom from illness. Even the great writer Natsume Sōseki featured Dogo Onsen prominently in his masterpiece *Botchan*, which is why the hot spring is also affectionately nicknamed “Botchan’s Hot Spring.”
 

Built in 1894, the Dogo Onsen Honkan features layers of intricately carved wooden eaves and gables beneath its gray-blue tiles, creating a stacked skyline that resembles a solid, majestic castle—charming both in the daytime and at night. The main building is divided into: the public bath “Kami-no-Yu” on the first floor; a space for bathers to enjoy tea and rest on the second floor; the “Tama-no-Yu” on the third floor, a premium bath once used by nobility; and the “Yuya-no-Sai” (also known as the Motoyu), which has never been open to the public and was reserved exclusively for the imperial family. Among the third-floor private rooms, there is one called the “Botchan-no-Yu-no-Ma,” which displays photos and historical materials related to Natsume Sōseki and other renowned writers who visited, commemorating their deep connection with Dogo Onsen.