Go for it—follow the backpackers to explore the unique charm of Pai in northern Thailand

Text & Photos / Liu Jiawen

Pai, a mountain town located in northern Thailand, is about a three-hour drive from Chiang Mai and requires navigating 762 winding curves to reach. Its vibrancy and diversity are astonishing, yet it retains a simple, laid-back atmosphere. Coupled with its low cost of living, it has become a favorite among many foreign backpackers. It’s even been described as a traveler’s holy grail by Lonely Planet. So what makes Pai so uniquely appealing? Come find out with us.

Pai isn’t very large—most places are within walking distance. All shops, restaurants, and guesthouses are concentrated along the walking street, an area about 1 to 2 kilometers square that extends roughly from either side of the bus station. The main attractions are located around Pai and can be reached along Highway 1095, taking about 10–30 minutes by car. Many motorcycle rental shops are available locally, with daily rates around 150 Thai baht (approximately NT$150), making them the go-to transport for backpackers heading to tourist spots.

Taste local delicacies—Sample authentic northern Thai snacks

The population of Pai is mostly Thai, along with a small community of Muslim Yunnanese-Chinese immigrants, plus many foreign backpackers, resulting in a diverse food scene. Along with Thai cuisine, you’ll find a wide range of Chinese and Western dishes. For authentic northern Thai classics, head to the Sukhothai noodle soup shop near the big temple. Their noodles are hearty and the broth rich—a favorite among locals. Another must-try is northern Thai curry noodles: flat rice and egg noodles served with boiled yellow noodles underneath and crispy fried ones on top, mixed with pickled vegetables, onions, and lemon juice, offering two distinct noodle textures in every bite.

In the morning, the walking street turns into a market, and by 4 or 5 PM, it becomes a bustling night market. Arrive as early as 6 or 7 AM, and you’ll see plenty of breakfast vendors. Try a bowl of congee cooked by Yunnanese vendors—hot white rice porridge topped with chicken, shredded ginger, and century eggs, light yet flavorful. There are also freshly fried youtiao (Chinese crullers) and soy milk on offer. The youtiao here have a chewy, springy texture, quite different from the crispy version found in Taiwan.