Wander through Tainan and discover the subtle charm of the ancient capital’s micro-narratives
Last updated 2026-09-27 — Once ranked as the foremost of the three major port cities during the Qing Dynasty — "One Prefecture, Two Deers, Three Bangkas" — Tainan may have stepped down from its over 200-year role as Taiwan’s provincial capital, but the historic sites scattered throughout the city still whisper tales of its former glory to throngs of visitors...
Text & Photography / Chen Guanxin, MOOK Scenic Spots Travel & Lifestyle Network
"One Prefecture, Two Deers, Three Bangkas" — once the leading of the three major port cities during the Qing Dynasty, Tainan may have stepped down from its over 200-year role as Taiwan’s provincial capital, but the historic sites scattered throughout the city still whisper tales of its former glory to throngs of visitors. Yet, strolling through the alleys of Tainan’s Qigu District and urban lanes, you’ll find age-old trades like oyster farming in _ Lake and stir-fried eel, along with old houses that have been revitalized in recent years. Even without grand historical narratives like Chihkan Tower or Anping Fort, it’s through the traces of everyday life that one can more deeply appreciate the old-world charm and cherished memories of this historic capital as time moves on.
Wandering through the ancient city, rediscover memories and emotions of olden-day life through its historic buildings and traditional trades. (Photography / Chen Guanxin, MOOK Scenic Spots Travel & Lifestyle Network)
Grass Temple Bookstore, a new haven for secondhand books
When it comes to secondhand bookstores, it’s hard not to think of the cramped, dimly lit display spaces reminiscent of the alleyway-like alleys during the old Guanghua Electronics Market era, or the clean, orderly environments of well-known modern chain secondhand bookstores. However, Grass Temple Secondhand Bookstore, located right across from Tainan Confucius Temple, utilizes a 46-year-old building — with cracked terrazzo flooring, vintage wooden bookshelves and furniture, and an ancient internal courtyard connecting the front and rear structures — to craft an ambiance of rustic elegance unlike most other bookshops.
The most eye-catching feature of Grass Temple Secondhand Bookstore is the two-story bamboo ladder and wall of books in the back building. (Photography / Chen Guanxin, MOOK Scenic Spots Travel & Lifestyle Network)
Perhaps every corner of Grass Temple reflects owner Tsai Han-chung’s vision for the bookstore: to provide a stage where secondhand books can be read again and regain value, rivaling that of new books. Thus, within this repurposed space that once housed three separate households, whether it’s the old tiled bathtub, wooden window frames, stained glass, or the vintage round wooden table beside them, the old house, antique furniture, and the old books displayed on them all blend seamlessly, creating Grass Temple’s distinctive style.
Through vintage wooden furniture and the old building itself, Tsai Han-chung has created a unique exhibition space for secondhand books that rivals that of new ones. (Photography / Chen Guanxin, MOOK Scenic Spots Travel & Lifestyle Network)
However, due to Grass Temple catching onto the trends of old building renovations and the rising popularity of secondhand bookstores in recent years, its unique spatial atmosphere has attracted many visitors more interested in taking photos than reading. To prevent Grass Temple from becoming just another photo spot, Tsai Han-chung, who loves books and strives to preserve their value, had to implement a no-photography policy inside the store. He hopes visitors will put down their cameras, explore the nearly 50,000 collected books, and find one that resonates with them — helping to keep the life of these books alive.
The ancient internal courtyard connecting the front and rear buildings has now become a cozy reading space. (Photography / Chen Guanxin, MOOK Scenic Spots Travel & Lifestyle Network)
B.B. Art, a meeting of contemporary art and old architecture
Aside from bookstores and cafés, what other possibilities exist for breathing new life into old buildings and showcasing a different kind of vintage charm? Located on Minquan Road, known as “Tainan’s First Street,” the blue-walled Western-style building with a “美” (beauty) character on top was once the island’s second-largest department store, the American Department Store. B.B. ART greets visitors with artworks such as Ashin’s “The Last Gashapon Machine” and Ikko Tanaka’s “Little Mouse,” heralding a new spring for this old house.
Du Zhaoxian breathes new life into the old space through contemporary artworks. (Photography / Chen Guanxin, MOOK Scenic Spots Travel & Lifestyle Network)
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