Tales of the Old City: A Journey to Discover National-Treasure-Level Handicrafts

Written/Compiled and Reported by MOOK Travel Life Net’s Chen Guanxin | Source/MoCA Editorial Department

 

Since the Dutch colonial period, Tainan has played the role of Taiwan’s premier city for over two hundred years. To this day, although Tainan has stepped down from its capital status, the local traditional trades still shine brightly amidst the tides of time, weaving together the most realistic aspects of daily life. From the old rice street—now Xinmei Street—all the way to the old official route on Ziqiang Street, clusters of national-treasure-level master artisans form along shops selling incense, embroidery, lanterns, paper goods, and pastries. Here, one can also glimpse traditional folk beliefs. In particular, Tainan’s century-old establishments pass on their heritage through generations, producing everything from handmade incense and pastries to roasted tea and tatami mats. Even international visitors can’t help but admire their craftsmanship.

 

The scent of incense wafts gently from the censer, and with each devout stick burned, countless worldly affairs fade away. A good stick of incense is passed down through generations. As one of Tainan’s century-old shops, Wu Wanchun Incense Shop remains committed to traditional methods of incense-making, using only natural ingredients and handcrafting every piece to keep the legacy alive. Located next to Tainan’s Sìdiǎn Wǔ Miào (Temple of Martial Deities), the first-generation owner was the founder Wu Wanchun, followed by the second-generation Wu Senyuan, a well-known local figure who served as neighborhood chief for an impressive 53 years. Today, the venerable 80-year-old Madam Chen Lian continues to uphold the incense shop’s legacy.

 

[Info] Wu Wanchun Incense Shop

Address: No. 217, Section 2, Yongfu Road, West Central District, Tainan City

Phone: 06-222-6842

Known as the “Tainan Embroidery Talent,” Lin Yuquan has been practicing traditional embroidery for half a century. Beyond teaching and promoting embroidery culture, he has created lifestyle embroidery products such as shoes and bags. His butterfly knot embroidery caught the eye of a Japanese designer, leading to a feature at Milan Fashion Week and putting this alternative “light of Taiwan” on the global stage. Master Lin says that traditional embroidery mainly includes items like the Eight Immortals tapestry, table skirts, and deity robes, all essential for weddings, celebrations, or moving into new homes.

 

[Info] Guangcai Embroidery Shop

Address: No. 186-3, Section 2, Yongfu Road, West Central District, Tainan City

Phone: 06-227-1253

 

Having stood for 150 years, Zhenfa Tea House has become a tourist attraction in Tainan. Japanese travel guides often feature this century-old Tainan shop, and it’s common to see Japanese visitors here. The shop’s antique tea barrels, tin containers, and cypress money chests are priceless treasures. The nonagenarian owner, Yan Cancheng, still greets customers. The stories of this century-old shop linger in the air like the rich fragrance of tea. One of the most memorable sights in the shop is the rows of old tea barrels, with tin cans labeled with place names from Wuyi Mountain in Fujian. The owner explains that these handmade tin barrels were brought over from the Chinese mainland’s Tangshan region more than 100 years ago. Despite offers of high prices for these collectibles, he refuses to sell them and plans to leave them to Tainan’s History Museum as historical artifacts. In addition to these antiques, Zhenfa Tea House still wraps tea in oil paper in the traditional way. After hand-packaging, the owner stamps the tea shop’s seal on each package, symbolizing not just the shop’s reputation but also a deep respect for tea.

 

[Info] Zhenfa Tea House

Address: No. 137, Section 1, Minquan Road, West Central District, Tainan City

Phone: 06-222-3532

Walking along Xinmei Street, where Tainan’s old trades are most concentrated, a row of dilapidated wooden houses preserves the most authentic look of an old street. A small green sign reading “Quanxing Tatami” doesn’t stand out much, just like most traditional businesses, living day by day and working as a matter of course. Quanxing Tatami is home to Tainan’s national-treasure-level tatami master, Li Jinshui. Starting as an apprentice at age 16, he has been making tatami for nearly 70 years and has produced over 100,000 mats. Today, his grandson, Li Zongxun, carries on the legacy. Making tatami requires both excellent sewing skills and expert knife work. First, measure the straw mat with a wooden ruler, then cut it with a machete, lay down the matting, sew the edges with a cloth needle, and finally tighten the stitches with a hook. Only then is a flat tatami mat complete. Elders say it takes “three years and six months to master the craft.” Watching the master’s cuts and stitches, you can feel the warmth of traditional craftsmanship and witness the exquisite skill of Taiwan’s local handiwork.

 

[Info] Quanxing Tatami

Address: No. 46, Xinmei Street, West Central District, Tainan City

Phone: 06-222-5227