Hidden Gems of Hong Kong: A Journey Through Old-Time Summer

By/TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine

 

I've been to Hong Kong many times—was it always about "eating and shopping," or just wandering around Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok? When people think of Hong Kong, many immediately picture an image of a trendy, fashionable international metropolis, the third most densely populated place in the world, where the streets are always bustling with hurried crowds. However, just a 20-minute ferry ride away, the outlying islands of Hong Kong offer travelers an experience that’s completely different from what they might expect.

 

Hong Kong has 260 islands scattered across the sea. Aside from Lantau Island and Lamma Island, Cheung Chau and Peng Chau are among the more populated and easily accessible ones. Traces of old-school Hong Kong life can still be found on these islands. The simple locals and unexpectedly tranquil atmosphere are part of the charm of Hong Kong’s outlying islands, leaving a deep impression on visitors. The lesser-known faces of Hong Kong not only feel refreshingly new but also allow travelers to embark on a relaxing, healing journey.

Taking a ferry from Central to Peng Chau takes about 25 minutes, and you’ll find yourself in a serene corner of Hong Kong. Among the more accessible outlying islands, Lantau and Lamma usually attract more tourists. In comparison, Peng Chau exudes a slow-paced lifestyle.

 

Yong An Street, not far from the pier, is home to Peng Chau Market—one of the island’s main streets. Even here, you won’t see the lively hustle found on busy streets like Hoi Pong Road in Lamma Island. Small shops may or may not be open (even on the weekend when we visited), and the people walking around seem more like local residents out for a stroll than tourists.

 

Under the island’s unhurried vibe, wandering through its winding alleys becomes a natural thing to do. With ferries running on fixed schedules, as long as you gauge the timing well, you can freely roam Peng Chau. In fact, the island still retains basic daily amenities—restaurants, shops, and barbershops appear along your walk. On Yong An Street, there’s even an abandoned theater, a hint that Peng Chau once thrived. In the afternoon sunlight, the empty signboards evoke a sense of timelessness. Compared to markets on larger islands, which often sell seafood and dried goods amid the noise of haggling vendors and tourists, Peng Chau offers a more down-to-earth island experience.

 

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Transportation: From Central Pier No. 6 (Exit E1 at Hong Kong MTR Station, walk through International Finance Centre mall), take a direct ferry to Peng Chau. The market is within walking distance.

Arriving at Cheung Chau, you’ll find the bustling Pei Ho Street near the pier, lined with shops—including even a McDonald’s. It’s said this McDonald’s serves the world’s only vegetarian burger made with mushrooms instead of beef, which adventurous eaters might want to try. For those planning to have dinner on Cheung Chau before returning to Hong Kong Island, ask the locals where the Cheung Chau Complex is. The complex houses a market where you can buy fresh seafood to satisfy your craving for island flavors.

 

Located on Tai Hing Tai Road, the three-story Cheung Chau Complex is quite uniquely designed. Part of it consists of government offices, while another section is a wet market—that’s our destination. This “combination” creates an atmosphere somewhat similar to Taipei’s Shui Yuan Market. According to sources, the market has over 200 stalls, though we didn’t count them all, but they’re certainly too numerous to take in at a glance. Beyond the fresh fish and dried goods vendors, you’ll also find produce, pickles, flower shops, fabric stores, and even incense shops—everything you’d need for daily life.

 

Here, you can browse the stalls, compare prices, and pick out the freshest seafood. Many nearby restaurants offer cooking services for customers. The outdoor seating is simple but gives you a real taste of island vibes. Hand over your selected seafood to the restaurant, pay a small preparation fee, and the chefs will cook it to your liking. Before long, your fresh catch is served as a delicious dish—paired with some greens and a few bottles of beer, you’ve got yourself a delightful island feast.

 

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Address: 2 Tai Hing Tai Road, Cheung Chau, Hong Kong

Transportation: From Central Pier No. 5 (Exit E1 at Hong Kong MTR Station, walk through International Finance Centre mall), take a direct ferry to Cheung Chau. The journey takes about 30 to 55 minutes, depending on the ferry type.

The Country Trail is one of the best ways to explore the scenery of Lamma Island. The so-called “Country Trail” refers to hiking paths—likely named for being enjoyable for family walks. The entire trail on Lamma Island is paved with concrete and clearly marked with signs, so as long as you understand your relative location, you won’t get lost.

 

Generally, there are three Country Trail systems on Lamma Island. The first starts from Yung Shue Wan in the northwest, the second connects Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan, and the third is a loop route in the south.

 

The northern loop of the Country Trail both starts and ends at Yung Shue Wan. Whether you begin from the stone steps near the pier (about 300 meters from the pier) or walk along the main street until you see the sign, you’ll eventually circle back to Yung Shue Wan. Along this trail, you’ll pass through Yung Shue Long, Pak Kok Village, and Au Tsai. At Au Tsai, you can look across the strait toward the southern part of Hong Kong Island. At Au Tsai Pier, massive cargo ships from around the world come and go—it’s no wonder Hong Kong ranks third in the world for cargo throughput.

 

The trail from Yung Shue Wan to Sok Kwu Wan is one that most visitors to Lamma Island will walk at least once. Along the way, you’ll encounter many scenic spots, especially several beaches. First is Big Wave Bay near the power station, and a few minutes further leads to Hung Shing Yeh Beach, a popular swimming beach among the outlying islands. From there, head up the hill to reach the viewing platform, which offers a great panorama of northwestern Lamma Island. Lo So Shing Beach is also a great spot for a splash. After leaving Lo So Shing, continue along the path, and when you arrive at Sok Kwu Wan, your approximately two-hour hike comes to an end.

 

The southern section of the Country Trail follows the coastline closely, passing through quieter areas like Mo Tat Wan, Yung Shue Ha, and Tong Lok, where the landscape is more natural. Nature enthusiasts may spot plenty of surprises here. Another highlight of this southern trail is the abundance of unique rocks—but the terrain varies more, so it’s best to go with someone familiar with the area.

 

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Transport: Take a ferry from Pier 4 in Central (Exit E1 of Hong Kong Station on the MTR, walk through the International Finance Centre mall) to either Aberdeen (Yeung Chau Wan) or Sok Kwu Wan on Lamma Island. The ferry ride takes about 30 minutes.

 

On the family trail on Lamma Island, heading from榕树湾 (Yung Shue Wan) to 索罟湾 (Sok Kwu Wan), you’ll spot a white acrylic signboard with bold letters reading “Kam Hing Ah Po Tofu Pudding Homemade Icy Cold.” Upon closer look, there’s smaller text that says “Lamma Specialty, Silky & Sweet,” along with an English description in the middle—this is how you know you’ve found the famous Kam Hing Ah Po Tofu Pudding.

 

What’s called tofu pudding here is essentially soybean curd dessert. The fame of Kam Hing Ah Po Tofu Pudding is well deserved. Whenever it’s open, there’s a constant flow of customers, and during hot weather, the queue in front of the stall can get quite long—a clear sign of its popularity. Although it's tofu pudding, the version here differs slightly from the Taiwanese style. Here, the pudding is scooped directly from an iron bucket into a bowl without any syrup, and you adjust the sweetness to your liking by adding brown sugar.

 

Kam Hing Ah Po Tofu Pudding has been in business for nearly 40 years. The original maker, Cheng Bao Po Po (Granny Cheng Bao), is now 75 years old. Aside from switching from a manual stone grinder to an electric one, everything else is still made the traditional way, all by hand. The silky tofu pudding is refreshingly cool in the summer heat, but they also offer grass jelly and the base ingredient for tofu pudding—fresh soy milk—which is equally delicious and recommended.

 

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Address: Near Tai Wan on Lamma Island (on the Yung Shue Wan section of the family trail)