Written by the Mook Editorial Team
Many readers love to capture the allure of night scenes while traveling, but often feel unsure where to start when night falls. This time, we’ll share years of photography experience from Zhou Zhiping, head of photography at Mook, explaining how to take a stunning night photo and the subtle yet essential little tricks you need to master. Get these right, and your travel album will be much more vibrant!
Seize the brief moment after sunset to capture the city’s glowing night sky (Image provided by Mook Editorial Team)
The most important thing in night photography is not to shoot in “total darkness”! This may sound contradictory, but here, “night scene” refers to the moment just after sunset, when the sky is not yet completely dark — the time when the city lights are just beginning to twinkle, not every photo taken at night. To be more precise, the key to shooting night scenes is mastering the balance between the brightness of the sky and the city lights. Usually, within thirty minutes after sunset (depending on season, latitude, and weather), is the best time to shoot, as the sky turns into a deep blue while the city lights are on. When both are similarly bright, using the right exposure can capture what is called the “Magic Hour.” So, grasping this fleeting moment is the most crucial part of night photography.
In terms of equipment, a tripod is essential because shutter speeds over one second will not produce sharp images even with image-stabilized lenses or cameras — so you’ll have to bring a tripod along. If you’re shooting in windy locations, choose a tripod with a hook under the center column to hang your backpack for added stability. If you're not using a shutter release cable, to avoid slight camera shake when pressing the shutter, use the self-timer to delay the shot a few seconds after pressing the shutter — this also reduces the chance of blur.
Night photography is technically focused on metering, but with digital cameras today, you can just take one or two test shots to see the results and find the best exposure value, so don’t worry. One thing to note is that during long exposures (over 10 seconds), the sensor can heat up and create noise — tiny bright spots on the image known as “hot pixels” (commonly referred to as noise). For longer exposures, try turning on the “noise reduction” (NR) feature to get a cleaner night sky.
Key Tips
1. Best Shooting Time: Within Thirty Minutes After Sunset
↓The color of the sky shows how different times affect the look. This photo was taken at 20:10, when the sky was already fully dark, with no clouds or color variations visible.
↓From almost the same angle, this shot was taken at 19:11 — doesn’t the sky look much nicer? This is the so-called “Magic Hour.”
2. Essential Gear: A Tripod
↓Foreground elements can add variety to your composition. In this horizontal shot, without the boat passing by in the foreground, the composition would feel rather static due to the horizon cutting through the frame. (Shot at 19:18)
↓A tripod is essential for night photography. This photo had a 4.5-second exposure — impossible without a tripod. (Shot at 19:18)
3. Exposure Compensation: Balancing Light and Dark
↓Proper exposure compensation balances light and shadow, helping capture more detail. In this Merlion photo, the light meter suggested 1/2 second, but the darker background needed longer exposure, so +0.7EV was added for 1/1.3 second. Even so, the background is still a bit dark. (Shot at 19:13)
↓Increasing exposure to 1.3 seconds (+1.3EV) brightens the background, but some detail on the Merlion is lost. Which is better depends on preference. On a computer, you could use High Dynamic Range (HDR) editing to merge both, but on-site, you’ll have to experiment with different shutter speeds to find the best balance. (Shot at 19:14)