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During her travels, Zhou Meiling’s accordion played on…

Published: 2026-09-25 👁 100 views
Last updated 2026-09-25 — That year, we bought two round-the-world plane tickets, packed two cameras, and set off. Haunted by deep questions about life and creativity, we wondered: having wandered for ten centuries, might the Romani people have unique answers to life’s journey?

Text by Zhou Meiling
 
That year, we bought two round-the-world plane tickets, packed two cameras, and set off.
 
Haunted by deep questions about life and creativity, we wondered: having wandered for ten centuries, might the Romani people have unique answers to life’s journey?
 
So we went to Romania — the only place where Romani “caravan caravans” still roam.

This photo shows a string of small covered wagons. Despite the widespread use of gas and electricity in the city, this Romani family still sells firewood along the way. (Photo courtesy of Zhou Meiling)

The moment we stepped into this country, all we saw was desolation. Unlike other northwestern European nations, this place has very few visitors, especially East Asians, who are almost never seen. Perhaps it is precisely because of this isolated atmosphere that it remains one of the few places in Europe where nomadic Romani still live.
 
To delve deeper into Romani life, through an NGO, we found a translator fluent in the Romani language and finally gained entry into our first Romani settlement.
 
These settlements are fascinating, often hidden among woods on the outskirts of town. Not long after entering the forest, the sound of an accordion soon reached our ears. Their world bursts with vivid colors, a mix of joy and hardship, as well as the poverty and carefree spirit of wanderers.

A Romani settlement hidden among the woods on the outskirts of the city. (Photo courtesy of Zhou Meiling)

Our sudden arrival made them curious, like watching animals. First, they had almost never seen East Asians, especially women. Second, Europeans generally look down on them — they’re known as pickpockets, swindlers, and thieves. Even people from the NGO warned us: why go into their settlement? They’re uncultured, can’t communicate, and are dangerous. At that moment, the translator blushed but said nothing — he didn’t want to admit that he had Romani blood. But we weren’t deterred. We insisted on entering their tribe and even broke the rules by bringing valuables with us (our cameras).

Perhaps because we were women, the women and children in the tribe boldly and joyfully rushed toward us. (Photo courtesy of Zhou Meiling)

Everyone said: the camera might get in, but it might not get out. But we still took out our cameras, and the villagers found it amusing to see their own images. (Photo courtesy of Zhou Meiling)

Later, our European friends were astonished that we could safely enter and exit the Romani settlement. I think, if not for European prejudice, it must be thanks to the Romani chief who led us.
 
This chief was a passionate old handsome man. He quickly played his beloved accordion, serenading my photographer. When he invited us to his home, he even showed a certificate identifying him as a nationally renowned accordion player — proof of his being a gentleman.

Later, our European friends were astonished that we could safely enter and exit the Romani settlement. I think, if not for European prejudice, it must be thanks to the Romani chief who led us. (Photo courtesy of Zhou Meiling) This chief was a passionate old handsome man. He quickly played his beloved accordion, serenading my photographer. When he invited us to his home, he even showed a certificate identifying him as a nationally renowned accordion player — proof of his being a gentleman.

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