Master Hayao Miyazaki’s canvas: Ehime and Hiroshima beloved by animation fans

Another must-do when visiting Dogo Onsen is riding the “Young Master Train,” once taken by famed Japanese author Natsume Soseki. The literary giant spent time teaching in Matsuyama and later wrote the novel *Botchan*, which, beneath its humorous surface, criticizes the absurdities and compromises of society. Soseki himself, however, quite enjoyed the local hot springs and trains. Not only did he depict the protagonist mischievously swimming in Kami no Yu, but he also wrote about taking a “matchbox-like” steam train to the baths. As a result, Matsuyama’s light rail steam train became a symbol of nostalgia for the Japanese. Originally launched in 1888 and running until 1954 as a coal-fired steam train spouting “toot-toot” sounds, it was later replaced by replicas before making a triumphant return in 2001 to boost tourism. True to the novel’s title, it was renamed the “Young Master Train,” now powered by diesel but featuring a faithful recreation. Its bottle-green metal body, interior wooden furnishings, even the conductor’s uniform, not to mention the steam puffing at departure and the rhythmic clatter of the moving train — all remain authentically nostalgic. Sitting on the train, passing other electric and automobile traffic, with a cool breeze blowing, this century-old train carries us back in time. Though the town is no longer the remote rural outpost Soseki once knew, strolling through this millennia-old hot spring town, one can still encounter moments of uncommon beauty.

 

Twisting and turning as if drawn by a child, *Ponyo on the Cliff* is a work of childlike wonder by Hayao Miyazaki. At a time when the animation industry heavily relies on computer technology, this film went against the trend and was entirely hand-drawn, even deliberately mimicking the strokes of a child to create a lively, dynamic visual style. And the creative prototype for this work is the fishing port town of Tomonoura in Hiroshima.

It’s said that Miyazaki was drawn to the town’s tranquility and simplicity, so he stayed here for three months. According to a local guide showing us around, everyone knew a remarkable person had come to town, but as Tomonoura had often been used as a movie location, locals were used to celebrities, so the master was able to leisurely enjoy coffee, take walks, and conceptualize his story. It wasn’t until the film’s release that residents realized their lazy summer days had become the scenes in Miyazaki’s animation.

 

Upon arriving here, you can first pick up a “Ponyo Map” at the Tomonoura Tourist Information Center or souvenir shops near the bus stop, then begin your half-day adventure. Whether it’s the large triangular roof of the protagonist Sosuke’s house, the cliffs, the Inari shrine, or the cove where Ponyo’s mother, Granmamare, comes ashore — all can be found on the map. But the most worthwhile spot is the daytime care center “Sunflower House” from the film, modeled after the town’s “Tomonoura Sakura House.” Built in the late 20th century as a community center for the elderly, its spacious rooms and elevated structure inspired the film’s setting. It still functions as a day service center today, retaining remnants of its cinematic past. Because it’s not a major tourist spot, visitors can chat with the staff or elderly guests to learn more about the filming locations.