A millennium-spanning journey: the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails purify the soul

By MOOK Scenic Spots Travel Life Network | Photography by MOOK Editorial Team Wu Rongbang | Special Thanks to Kansai Regional Revitalization Foundation & Wakayama Prefecture

 

With dense woods overhead and misty rain gently feeding the forests, the pilgrimage routes linking Kumano’s three major shrines are now quieter yet filled with a hazy serenity. Walking slowly along the asphalt road paved over thirty years ago at the entrance, you enter the Kumano Ancient Trail, a route over 1,300 years old. This single step bridges more than a millennium, like stepping into a time tunnel that takes you back to Japan’s Heian Period—a golden age of literature. Following in the footsteps of those who came before, you make your way toward the ancient sacred site connected by the pilgrimage trail—Kumano Hongu Taisha. A journey to cleanse body and soul begins here...

The Kumano Kodo and its three connected grand shrines—Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Nachi Taisha—have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for both natural and cultural significance, collectively known as the “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range.” Among UNESCO World Heritage Sites, only Spain’s Camino de Santiago shares this dual classification with the Kumano trails. Each of the three shrines holds its own beautiful legend: Kumano Hongu Taisha, nestled within lush forests, reveres the forest itself as its sacred object. The roots of the trees intertwine beneath the ground, symbolic of the underworld, where the realm of death connects to heaven through towering trees—thus regarded as the god of the earth. Nachi Taisha venerates the Nachi Waterfall, Japan’s highest waterfall, where heaven and earth are united by the rushing waters—thus revered as the god of water. Kumano Hayatama Taisha’s massive rock glows faintly white under moonlight, historically serving as a beacon for ships navigating the nearby Kii Peninsula—thus honored as the god of light. The Kumano faith unites the gods of earth, water, and light, the three elements forming the essence of life, collectively representing the source of life. Hence, a thousand years ago, people from all walks of life—from retired emperors and nobles to commoners—embarked on arduous pilgrimages from across the land to visit this source of life.

 

Pilgrims flock to the sacred sites, seeking purification and spiritual enrichment from the source of life. The shrines welcome people from all social strata and various religious backgrounds. While Japanese religion traditionally separates Shinto and Buddhism—and historical conflicts have even arisen between their followers—the Kumano faith uniquely blends the two. Over the centuries, numerous eminent monks, including Kūkai, have visited. Even today, followers of various Buddhist sects continue to make pilgrimages here. Kumano Hongu Taisha has long allowed worshippers direct access to the main hall—an exception compared to other shrines where visitors are typically restricted to the worship hall. Ringing the bell and praying in the main hall offers a more intimate connection with the divine. Soft rain brushes against the weathered wooden structure, while devotees stand earnestly outside the main hall, offering their prayers. There is none of the noise associated with famous temples—only quiet reverence.

Nachi Taisha, established in 317 AD, features a temple standing adjacent to its worship hall—a vivid representation of the Shinto-Buddhist syncretism. Beyond the temple, the Nachi Waterfall can be admired as it plunges down the mountainside, making it the perfect spot for photos. The waterfall and temple architecture blend seamlessly into a single natural canvas. As daylight fades, the pure white waterfall and orange-red shrine stand out against the misty, dark green forest—revealing how the source of life formed by earth, water, and light has always existed in nature and can be found throughout Kumano. As our guide put it: “In Kumano, spiritual energy is everywhere!” Nachi Taisha also offers visitors the chance to don Heian-period attire for their shrine visit, creating a surreal journey back in time.