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Slow Travel in Hokkaido: A Journey Through the Niseko Wilderness

Published: 2026-09-25 👁 100 views

Last updated 2026-09-25 — I heard that farmers in Hokkaido switch roles twice a year—hardworking cultivators in summer and ski instructors, snowplow workers, or innkeepers in winter... We arrived at Niseko (二世谷) just before it was completely blanketed in silver, to experience a different kind of wild vitality before the white world closed in.

Text by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Huang Junyi

I heard that farmers in Hokkaido switch roles twice a year—hardworking cultivators in summer and ski instructors, snowplow workers, or innkeepers in winter... We arrived at Niseko (二世谷), to experience a different kind of wild vitality before the white world closed in.

The very European-style Niseko Station. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)

We only stayed one night in the bustling city of Sapporo before taking a train the next day to Niseko, located to the west of Sapporo. A friend reminded us that if we wanted to go shopping, this was our only chance—otherwise, we’d have to wait until we got back to Taiwan to pick up souvenirs at New Chitose Airport.

Early the next morning, we took the JR Hokkaido line from Sapporo to Otaru Station, then transferred to a single-car local train that took about forty minutes to reach Niseko. The train moved slowly through the mountains, and aside from the relatively crowded Otaru Station at the start, there were usually empty seats for most of the ride. The slow, tranquil scenery outside the window was mesmerizing, and every small station we passed made us want to hop off and explore. But our friend stopped us—because who knew when the next train would come? What kind of hidden paradise were we about to visit? Only then did we truly understand the thoughtful intention behind our friend urging us to shop to our hearts' content in Sapporo.

Getting to Know Niseko by Bicycle

Niseko (ニセコ) originates from the Ainu language phrase “Nise-ko-an-nupuri,” meaning “a mountain with cliffs.” It has no corresponding Chinese characters and was once given the similar-sounding name “二世谷” (Nisegoka). Later, due to its enchanting winter snowscapes and status as a renowned ski resort, the official kanji became “新雪谷” (New Snow Valley). Surrounded by hills, Niseko transforms into a top skiing destination every winter, attracting many Europeans and especially Australians from the Southern Hemisphere—even in summer, you’ll often see Western faces strolling or cycling along the roads, momentarily making you forget you’re in Japan.

Encountering a sunflower field while cycling in Niseko. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)

Niseko is a vast expanse of farmland and green fields, with adorable triangular-roofed farmhouses behind the fields, woods behind the farmhouses, and green mountains beyond the woods—that’s the most classic view of Niseko. Our eyes often drifted involuntarily toward Yotei Mountain behind the fields, checking to see if its summit, usually hidden by clouds, had emerged. Yotei Mountain, resembling Mount Fuji in shape, is nicknamed “Ezo Fuji” (“Ezo” being an ancient name for Hokkaido). Covered in snow for most of the year, the meltwater that flows in summer is incredibly cool and sweet. At the spring areas, it’s common to see people arriving in cars with buckets of all sizes to collect water. For the people of Hokkaido, the sacred majesty of Yotei Mountain is no less than that of Mount Fuji.

In Niseko, exploring by bicycle is just perfect. The fresh air carries a cool breeze, and the joy of speeding down the occasional downhill stretches is simply exhilarating. Among the cycling routes in Niseko, the loop around Yotei Mountain is highly recommended—it’s about 55 kilometers long and takes roughly three hours to complete at a normal pace, but that’s “generally speaking,” because you never know when you might come across a vast sunflower field, an adorable farmhouse standing alone in a field of green, or a natural spring sourced from Yotei Mountain where you can drink to your heart’s content. And then the cloud that always lingered around Yotei suddenly drifts away... revealing every beautiful moment to your lens.

The road leads straight to Yotei Mountain. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)

It might even take over four hours to finish the full route—but so what? Discovering beautiful sights that most people overlook is the most romantic part of a bicycle trip in Niseko.

Leisure on the Shakotan River

Early the next morning, a light rain was falling outside the window. Our next activity was canoeing on the Shakotan River. With no clear blue skies overhead, the view was a monotonous gray—and it didn’t seem like the kind of place that would showcase the river’s beauty or lift our spirits.

The Shakotan River canoe trip lasts a little over three hours, including preparation, departure, and a paddling lesson. After some basic practice going forward, backward, turning right, and turning left, we excitedly set off in the drizzle. Raindrops pattered on the river’s surface, and the current was slower than expected. Paddling hard, the greenery along the banks took on a unique charm through the misty haze. Though not a scene of vivid saturation, it still lifted our mood immensely. After more than an hour, we took a short break on a small sandbank in the middle of the river, enjoying hot tea and homemade cookies prepared by the boatman while happily taking commemorative photos. Regaining our strength, we continued—and this time, paddling felt even more natural and effortless. Suddenly, we spotted a long, distinct mist rising from the river surface. Not hazy or vague, we gleefully paddled into the fog, letting the river carry us wherever it pleased, jokingly declaring that this must be what paradise feels like. The regret of the morning’s poor weather had vanished without a trace.

Fishing in Farmer’s Waders on the Shallow Banks of the Shakotan River. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)

In the afternoon, the clouds cleared and the weather turned sunny. We changed into professional fisherman’s waders and slowly stepped into the shallow waters of the Shakotan River to fish. Though the sunlight was strong, the stream water was cool and refreshing, still making us feel comfortable and happy. As someone who couldn’t even attach wriggling bait properly, I put my rod into the water and within three minutes, caught a small fish. Excited, I showed it off everywhere, but the photographer calmly said, “How about you catch a 30-centimeter fish before I take your photo?”

Delicious Delights in Niseko

Still full of confidence, we kept fishing—but only the bait kept getting stolen. Not to mention a 30-centimeter fish, we couldn’t even catch another small one. To soothe our wounded pride, our next stop was the must-visit Milk Factory (ミルワ工房) in Niseko to indulge in rich, fragrant dairy products. As soon as we walked into the Milk Factory, the rich aroma of fresh milk hit us. The shelves were lined with yogurt, puddings, cream puffs, cakes... not just for display, but calling out to every visitor. The plain yogurt was especially popular year-round. The other products looked so delicious that we couldn’t bear to put them down. There was also a soft-serve ice cream that was so creamy and smooth, it was impossible to stop after just one bite. As for the cheese, which I’m not too fond of, it was a bit too intense for me and I ended up not buying any.

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