【Monday Foodie Guide】Shu-Sheng Leisure Winery: A Wonderful Stroll Through the Vineyards

 

The winery owner, Hong Jibei, took over the grape business from his grandfather and father. Since childhood, the vineyard has been his playground. Over the past fifty years, he has witnessed Taiwan’s agricultural boom and transformation. To preserve the old grapevines, he has given them new life through a rural winery. With his sun-kissed skin, bright smile, and the straightforwardness of a farmer, Hong talks about his vineyard and winery as if they were his beloved children, brimming with confidence and pride. “Taiwan’s very first winery was started by me right here. Here, you can see how grapes are grown, eat the grapes, and even taste the wine.” Indeed, apart from sampling wine, one of the most anticipated experiences at the winery is admiring the vineyard scenery. And here at Shu-Sheng, you can witness every crucial step of the winemaking process, from raw material to finished product. Many may still associate wineries with European castles and cellars, but little do they know that Taiwan also has its own uniquely beautiful winery landscapes.

Following the gravel path behind the winery leads you to the brewery and vineyard. You’re immediately drawn to a verdant grapevine tunnel. “These grapevines are about twice your age — over fifty years old,” Hong Jibei says with a laugh, seeing our surprised expressions. The grapevines here are Japanese varieties grafted onto Taiwanese ones, which is why the stems come in two colors. Upon closer inspection, the winding vines indeed show alternating shades of dark and light — a testament to the wisdom of Taiwanese farmers. Without the owner’s explanation, we outsiders wouldn’t have understood. As he walks us through the vineyard, Owner Hong introduces various plants around us, acting like a living plant encyclopedia, familiar with every leaf and tree. There’s tree grape, dragon fruit, kumquat, banana, sugarcane, plum trees, and more — it’s practically a mini botanical garden.

 

As we walk, barking dogs can be heard up ahead. Around a bend, on the right, appears a traditional three-section courtyard house, reminiscent of the large families of the agricultural past. The nostalgic atmosphere makes you want to linger. Though no one lives there now, the interior still preserves old tools like a threshing machine, a four-poster bed, and a shrine — signs of the owner’s careful maintenance, keeping the golden era of rural life alive for future generations. In Hong Jibei, you can see the embodiment of Taiwan’s hardworking farmers — their love for the land and generational stories are touching and beautiful.

The time spent strolling through the vineyard seems to slow down the watch hands, and even the air feels unhurried. By coincidence, during our visit, the brewery was bottling and labeling wine. It was a refreshing first-hand look at the whole production line — cleaning bottles, pouring the wine, corking, labeling, and boxing. On the circular conveyor belt, the deep purple craft brew becomes bottle after bottle of fine wine before our eyes. Hong Jibei explains that the fermentation area nearby requires daily checks to monitor fermentation progress and control temperature and humidity to ensure quality. “We’re experts at growing grapes, but not so much at marketing.” But transitioning to a tourism-oriented winery means having to learn everything — brewing, marketing, and connecting with customers.

 

Back at the winery, a family from Taipei happens to be visiting. Hong Jibei warmly welcomes them to taste the wine and invites them to return during the grape harvest season. “As for the winter grapes in early December, we’ll have to see if the weather cooperates.” A single typhoon could ruin the winter grape harvest, meaning they’d have to wait until next year. Relying on the weather seems to be the fate of farmers, but it also makes people cherish these hard-earned, wonderful wines even more. Lifting a glass of white wine, the fresh grape aroma fills the air. Held up to the light, it's crystal clear, pale yellow with a slight green tint, shimmering with golden highlights. The sweet taste spreads gently from the tip of the tongue to the throat, lingering throughout the mouth with an elegant aftertaste.